Alex's white NA8 build.

[Alex 2550]

MLS exhaust manifold gasket and Mazdaspeed competition engine mounts.
These are harder than the ones on the SE and are 40% stiffer than stock.
I nearly went the hybrid setup with a solid mount on exhaust side and a comp mount on intake but it’s apparently pretty harsh

I think the effects of the mounts is very subjective.
I ran competition mount for 10 years and just swapped to the solid/rubber hybrid mounts and tbh didn’t notice much of a change in nvh. Probably a bit more vibration just off idle, but certainly no mirror shaking or the like.
But then mines a noisy track car anyway, so a pristine daily driver might be way more noticeable..

100% agree with this, I’m trying to have the car as a bit of a GT, if it was just for me to enjoy it would be very different. My FC was fully stripped and more track focussed.
If I tear the mount I’ll go solid on the hot side


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[Alex 2550]

I’m pretty happy with the results except a slight jerking at very light throttle at very low speeds, I should be able to sort it out as it’s only minor.

It might be overrun fuel cut settings. I had an issue after my last tune where the TPS threshold was set too high, so it would sometimes interpret my very light throttle as zero and cut the fuel. Then I add throttle to recover, fuel switches back on, I back off, fuel cut again, and so on. Just needed to lower that TPS setting right down and it was good.

That’s worth checking,
I’m sure I set it for TPS <1% but I’ll check.
It has also only started since i put in the 650cc flow force and it is minor but there enough to want it gone.


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[Alex 2550]

A little tinkering before work very early this morning.
Put the front up on stands, removed wideband O2 very carefully and removed manifold.

I read the heater line under the manifold can foul on some turbo setups so I bent the metal heater line back slightly as per FM’s instructions.
Only slightly 10-12mm so not to foul or rub anywhere, I used the factory manifold as a pivot point with a pry bar before removing. It may of been unnecessary but can’t hurt.
It’s moved back in the above photo and is about 10mm off the AC line.

I hoped to hang the turbo just for giggles but it needs to be clocked as does the cartridge, currently the oil drain is facing the block.
I may try get that done over the weekend if I get time.


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[Daffy]

Now that’s dedicated mate, up early and getting some done before work! Hope the turbo fit goes in smoothly, looks to be some good space to work with

[Alex 2550]

I have done very little due to working on the house but there has been some forward progress, turbo is in the engine bay for mocking up and a few issues are immediately obvious.
Being that this isn’t my first modified car I knew things like this would arise and I’m not overly concerned but there are things.

1, power steering lines need to be moved for intercooler pipes. I have seen that Revent rotate the pipe in the pump housing and this will fix the problem. Cable ties would also fix this but I can do better.

2, lower radiator hose may need moving or a change to the NB one piece design as the NA’s 2 piece metal join will be close to pipe.

3, turbo is clocked and the wastegate actuator arm won’t line up nicely with the wastegate flapper post. This is due to the wastegate actuator bracket having no adjustments.
Thinking I’ll get the universal turbosmart adjustable actuator and bend the arm to make it fit, make a custom actuator bracket out out of stainless or buy an adjustable wastegate bracket.

4, brake and A/C hard lines are going to be very very close to the dump pipe and may need to be moved.

A combination of P/S and A/C lines are preventing me from lowering the manifold, turbo and elbow down in one assembly which would be nice and easy for future work.
Currently it’s a case of manifold on then bolt up the turbo and elbow.

I understand why many people hit the easy button and remove A/C and P/S. It would be extremely easy.

I think someone who was new to modified cars may be a little daunted at this point.

So my new plan of attack is pull the turbo stuff out and sell it……… just joking.

I’m planning on pulling the turbo stuff out and making as much space as I can for the intercooler pipes, if I end up having excessive space so be it.
I’ll do the engine mount while there.

Also as a little side note of things rolling around in my brain (Getting into the scary stuff now) I’m going to tap the intercooler on the cold side for the wastegate signal source as the turbo doesn’t have a barb and turbosmart don’t recommend vacuum on the actuator so manifold is out.

This will give the wastegate a pretty accurate reference of boost that is entering the engine and take into account pressure drop through intercooler, trade off is slightly longer response but I’m sure the velocity the air is travelling will make this insignificant.

I’m also thinking of tapping the oil drain plug for my oil temp sensor as the VDO sender is stupidly long.

I’ll try get some photos up when I get a chance.


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[Alex 2550]

A couple pics of how tight it is.




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[Alex 2550]

Ok so the install has progressed a little and some issues have been resolved and new ones have been found.
This is only for mocking up and once happy it will all be removed and done properly so don’t panic if you see hoses without clamps ect.

The existing clearance issues that concerned me was the dump pipe would touch the brake lines and getting the hot side intercooler pipe onto the compressor outlet was impossible due to PS lines and radiator hoses.

Well firstly I fitted the dump pipe and it’s not an issue. there is the same clearance on the brake lines with the dump as there is on the elbow.
I’m going to run a heat reflecting sleeve over the lines just to be safe, I’ll do the same with the A/C.

The PS lines and radiator hoses were a little trickier but nothing bad.
Firstly I removed the 2 piece NA lower radiator hose and hard line.
I fitted a flexi 1 piece lower radiator hose.
32mmID and 508mm long fits perfectly and runs closer to the Air con compressor than the frame rail.
NB lower hose may of worked but not given this much clearance.

For the PS hoses (these are the low pressure ones) i purchased new longer general purpose oil hose.
I routed the smaller one Around next to the frame rail and under the old bracket for the radiator hose hard join. The factory mazda hose was only about 50mm too short.

As for the bigger one which is easy to spot being red is looped away from the charger with the fitting on the pump rotated down slightly.
I pulled the sleeves off the factory lines and fitted to the new lines to prevent rubbing.

I will also put heat sleeve on both of these lines to help with radiant heat.

Below is before.

Below is after, excuse the filth everything will be cleaned after mock up.


The only thing rubbing here is the old bracket on the silicone join to compressor, I will trim this down or possibly cut it off all together.
A few more pics




Intercooler in for mock up, that’s bug splatter near driving light not cracks, intercooler fitment is perfect and you can see how much space is above for air to go to radiator, I’ll get better pics later.
It mounts to the bolts for baby teeth tow hooks.


Also I have the adjustable wastegate bracket and it has solved issues there with actuator rod alignment after clocking the turbo. It’s a stainless Mamba item from eBay.
This wastegate actuator is only being used for mock up and a turbosmart adjustable is going on.
This current one is the same dimensions as a Garrett/turbosmart GT actuator not a GTX one.




Some may notice above that the Mishimoto radiator is in, fitment was perfect no issues at all with the radiators fitment and it seems really good value.
However it does bring some other issues into play due to thickness. Wouldn’t be an issue on a non turbo or some other kits.
Main problems are fitting a top radiator hose and the fan for AC hits the throttle body silicone join.
Pictures tell a thousand words.


I will need to run a slim SPAL fan on this side, I cut and modified the factory shroud, spent hours on it actually and it still hits badly.
The engine fan is fine on the other side even with my fatter whiteline away bar.



The only solution here is to cut the top radiator pipe and weld at an angle, even with the standard radiator this intercooler kit will not work without a coolant re-route as seen below. I’m very seriously considering the FM re-route.

The empty port on the silicone hose is for the BOV, there is one at the back that goes onto the IACV so the hose can’t be rotated.
This port as shown below also highlights the fact a reroute is needed.
I do have the 323 timing covers so I will delete the thermostat neck completely and fit them which will cover the timing gears as another added bonus with the re-route.

Above the radiator hose is resting on outlet.


The two pictures above are with the factory radiator.

So I need.
- a slim SPAL fan for AC, I have found one rated around 1100cfm like the factory unit that should fit.
- re-route, which was planned already but is needed now not just wanted.

- cut and weld radiator top hose to face more towards the drivers frame rail for the re-route hose.

So a few little headaches but all in all it’s getting there.
I have been looking at ducting ideas for heat exchangers and how I’m going to tackle the airbox. It’s starting to get past the headache stage and the fun has begun.




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[Daffy]

Some great progress being made mate

[Alex 2550]

Some great progress being made mate

Thanks mate, it is slowly progressing.
Unfortunately at the moment I’m a little time poor because of work but I feel the troubleshooting stage is coming to an end…….. maybe


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[bartmanftw]

Nice progress. Not much room with the A/C and P/S!

Might be worth looking into getting an NB throttle body since it has the idle valve integrated with no external hose required. Might give you more flexibility to rotate the inlet pipe and clear the radiator hose. Would have to get another joiner for a blow-off valve though but that's a bit more flexible in where it can be located.

[Alex 2550]

Nice progress. Not much room with the A/C and P/S!

Might be worth looking into getting an NB throttle body since it has the idle valve integrated with no external hose required. Might give you more flexibility to rotate the inlet pipe and clear the radiator hose. Would have to get another joiner for a blow-off valve though but that's a bit more flexible in where it can be located.

Yer it’s tight.
The thought did cross my mind but I’ll make it work, be boring if it was easy haha


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[Alex 2550]

Just a tiny update.
I replaced the engine mounts last night with the Mazdaspeed competition mounts.
I have to say they are the easiest engine mounts I have ever done.
I was doing the mounts in anticipation of the increased power and stress on the old mounts……
Glad I did.


Drivers side was in 2 pieces, passengers side has very little holding it together and I can nearly split it in half with my hands.


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[Alex 2550]

Slow progress being made, ran the turbo oil feed line last night.
All tapered fitting have permatex thread sealant.
A couple quick photos, ignore mamba packet its from the actuator bracket this is all supplied by Kraken except the old sensor obviously.



As you can see above I fitted a braided black nylon sheath over the braid where it snakes under manifold near hoses, starter cables ect so the braided steel doesn’t rub holes in anything and a couple P-clamps secure the line.
Unfortunately I didn’t grab a photo test fitting with the turbo in place.

I hope to have a nice little part arriving from the USA next week, it will help the build progress further


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[Nevyn72]

Is that an oil pressure or oil temp sensor?

Either way it's not going to see much oil for sensing purposes I would have thought....
Is it just to confirm there's oil flow to the turbo?

[Alex 2550]

Is that an oil pressure or oil temp sensor?

Either way it's not going to see much oil for sensing purposes I would have thought....
Is it just to confirm there's oil flow to the turbo?

Hey mate,
This is the fitting that screws into block not in turbo end.
It’s just the factory oil pressure sensor for the idiot gauge in the NA8, spaced out from its standard position, it’s still seeing the same pressure as before minus very slight parasitic loss from feeding the turbo.
the oil feed line is pressurised then passing through a .5mm or 1mm (can’t remember) restrictor so it’s negligible.
I agree temp wouldn’t be ideal, for starters the probe would most likely be too long to fit in the spacer and not have enough oil around it to read correctly, temp will be in the sump at this stage unless I need an oil cooler later then I’ll possibly move it to the sandwich plate.