Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

greenMachine · Postby **greenMachine** » Fri Sep 17, 2021 12:00 pm

The ground, meh. I'd pick a convenient ground provided that is already provided and populated.

I'd be more interested in the source, if issues that might be voltage related are arising. Most ECUs provide regulated 5 and 12v outputs, that would be my first step. Following that, since your ECU is grounded at the engine, I'd probably use an engine ground, t'be sure.

:mrgreen:

Lokiel · Postby **Lokiel** » Fri Sep 17, 2021 9:18 pm

ManiacLachy wrote::
(FWIW, this is an Innovate LC-2, it only has a single ground wire for the heater, no sensor ground)

You probably already know my thoughts on this so I'll repeat them for those who don't:

The original Innovate LC-1 had 2x grounds, one for heating the sensor and the other for the sensor ground.
This was a good design but Innovate got tired of everyone asking how to wire their sensor and simplified the LC-2 to use one ground.
The heating using requires a lot of current to heat, which is why using the windows power wiring is often used (it's nice and thick so won't burn out).

Sharing the heater power ground with the sensor ground introduces noise to the LC-2 sensor.
I'd be wary of connecting the LC-2's ground to the ECU's "sensor ground" since it will likely affect their readings too.

Try G4, G7 or G6 of the Wiring diagram, Fig 15, Ground Distribution Circuit (FYI: Power Window Switch uses G2).

ManiacLachy · Postby **ManiacLachy** » Sat Sep 18, 2021 7:53 am

Thanks Lokiel, I remember now you send me the Google Drive documents, I'll check that out for the ground locations.

Definitely not using the ECU sensor ground cable :wink:

I'm going to start bugging you soon about sorting out the Lokiel Gauge and getting it finalised :mrgreen:

bartmanftw · Postby **bartmanftw** » Sat Sep 18, 2021 10:13 am

When I had an LC-2 I also tried wiring it to the power windows but it introduced noise into the signal when the windows were used plus a ground offset due to the different grounding location.
Leaving the 12V source there might be ok but I would definitly move the ground to the engine to improve the ground offset. As mentioned I think you'll still get noise in the signal due to the combined heater and signal ground. Not a great design.
If you want a better signal then look into getting a TinyIOx and reading the serial data from the LC-2 to make the ground point irrelevant or get a better wideband that has a separate sensor ground or CAN capability.

ManiacLachy · Postby **ManiacLachy** » Sat Sep 18, 2021 12:06 pm

bartmanftw wrote:If you want a better signal then look into getting a TinyIOx and reading the serial data from the LC-2 to make the ground point irrelevant or get a better wideband that has a separate sensor ground or CAN capability.

This is what the Lokiel Gauge does. Gauge isn't really accurate, it has a gauge to display in the cluster, but it also takes a bunch of inputs, wideband included, and communicates them to the MS3 over CAN. It's quite brilliant, we just need to get it fully functional.

But even with that fully sorted, I want the wiring to be up to snuff, so an engine ground it will be!

ManiacLachy · Postby **ManiacLachy** » Wed Sep 22, 2021 2:51 pm

I didn't have much time last weekend, I ran a new ground wire successfully, it gets a signal but haven't started the engine yet to check the offset from digital.

I also found out the cause of my noise, my AC bracket has come loose from the block :shock:

Well, it's loose and I assume the source of the noise, until it's re-secured and I start the car I can't be sure. It's in an awkward spot but I should be able to get to it. Hopefully I'll find some time this weekend to get under there and sort it out. I really want to get back to boost tuning.

ManiacLachy · Postby **ManiacLachy** » Mon Sep 27, 2021 12:17 pm

AC bracket has been re-attached. That was a fight! The bracket is attached to the block with 4 bolts, 2 of which are behind the compressor, so the compressor has to come off too, and there's not much room in there with PS lines, and IC pipes, and a turbo up top! With the help of a friend I got it all done though. Big rattle is gone!

But there's still a small rattle :roll:

My trigger wheel is loose, it's rattling behind the ATI damper and has a little play in it, spin this around quickly and you get the noise I'm hearing (I think). The trigger wheel is held to the back of damper with 4 allen bolts, maybe I didn't locktight them properly (or even forgot in haste?). To pull the ATI damper is a load of work, drop the sway bar, and pull the radiator. Then because the ATI damper is one piece with the crank pulley it won't just unbolt like stock, I have to de-tension the timing belt, which is pretty much a timing belt job. :shock:

I don't think I have it in me. That's a solid weekend's work, and I barely get any time to do a few hours a month on the car as it is right now. I'm going to see if I can find some professionals to do this one. I just want to get to the driving.

greenMachine · Postby **greenMachine** » Mon Sep 27, 2021 1:34 pm

I feel your pain.

I have just found that my softtop is beyond any hope of repair, even a short-term patch-up. I can't see myself wrestling with a new top to get it on the frame - the easy bit is taking the old one out and putting the new one on. Paying someone to put it on the frame, on top of the cost of a new one, is probably a bridge too far for me right now. So it looks like no top or HT is my short term future, maybe until Spring/Summer 2022/23.

:mrgreen:

PaulF · Postby **PaulF** » Tue Sep 28, 2021 8:57 am

ManiacLachy wrote:My trigger wheel is loose, it's rattling behind the ATI damper and has a little play in it, spin this around quickly and you get the noise I'm hearing (I think). The trigger wheel is held to the back of damper with 4 allen bolts, maybe I didn't locktight them properly (or even forgot in haste?). To pull the ATI damper is a load of work, drop the sway bar, and pull the radiator. Then because the ATI damper is one piece with the crank pulley it won't just unbolt like stock, I have to de-tension the timing belt, which is pretty much a timing belt job.

I don't think I have it in me. That's a solid weekend's work, and I barely get any time to do a few hours a month on the car as it is right now. I'm going to see if I can find some professionals to do this one. I just want to get to the driving.

It's a pretty easy job for a pro with a hoist. They'll knock it over in a morning and you'll be on your way.

ManiacLachy · Postby **ManiacLachy** » Tue Sep 28, 2021 10:34 am

PaulF wrote:It's a pretty easy job for a pro with a hoist. They'll knock it over in a morning and you'll be on your way.

A hoist is a magical thing! Combine that with experience and a well equiped professional took kit and most jobs move much faster than I could ever hope to do.

I've booked the car into Autoworks at Sailsbury here in Queensland, on the southside of Brisbane. It's not exactly local or convenient to me, but they work on modded cars of all stripes, and one of the employees is an MX-5 owner on the Facebook groups. I've been meaning to try them out for a little while, so this is their "audition" for me. They also do dyno tunes, and are willing to work on Megasquirt, so I have high hopes.

I still enjoy working on my car, but I think I have a time limit these days, 4-6 hours every other month or so is about all I can make happen. It's enough time for small mods and maintenance. But anything bigger I think I'd rather pay for it to be done by professionals during the week so I can get to driving on the weekends!

ManiacLachy · Postby **ManiacLachy** » Thu Sep 30, 2021 9:40 am

The gang at Autoworks were quick and fixed my trigger wheel yesterday without much trouble. They were able to remove the lower timing cover and get at the back of the damper without having to pull the timing belt or the damper itself. There is also an oil leak I asked them to investigate, it's minor but I wan't to see what they thought - they could see an easily identifiable source, maybe the turbo oil drain? They cleaned it up and I'll keep an eye on it, it's more a weep than a leak.

They had a variety of cars in the yard including 5 other MX-5s in various states of modification. I'm quite happy with them and other than the need to get out there and back I think they'll suit my needs for any jobs I can't do or can't make time for very nicely. Hopefully get on their dyno in a little while and find a comfortable stock block power level.

Next on my list is PDR to fix this bonnet dent that's like sore thumb to me!

ManiacLachy · Postby **ManiacLachy** » Mon Oct 18, 2021 9:14 am

Nothing much to report as far as working on the car goes. I've been for a few drives over Nebo and Glorious, the car is running really well and a lot of fun. Well, it's fun when the roads are clear and I can give it some! I'm glad I no longer commute through traffic in the car :lol:

I suspect I'm running a bit rich because the tank is going down faster than it should, better rich than lean though! I haven't had time to go for a tuning run, when there's time I've just gone for a blast. I need to chase up Autoworks about getting in for a dyno session soon.

Also, happy to report my new lady likes going for rides and as she's petite she fits well in the Elise seats :mrgreen:

At the bottom of Mt Glorious on a morning run with some friends, including this GR Yarris - which is quite quick!