Alex's white NA8 build.

[Alex 2550]

Looking good Alex, that looks the business!!

You could do better than 200rwhp on stock internals with careful tuning, but not a lot of point if the forged build is planned anyway. My limit is set by injector duty cycle, so the two big-ticket items remaining on my list are bigger injectors, and the turbo. New rods and an oil pump are on the wishlist, but that is probably a way off yet.

Keep up the good work!!

Thanks mate,
I agree I could get a bit more out of it with some good tuning.
I have the Flow Force injectors in the garage waiting for me to get the basics sorted.
Rods and pump are also on my to do list but also a way off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Alex 2550]

Where did you ground the wideband? I normally don't use gauges with the Spartan 2s since I don't find AFR gauges useful and the reading it will give won't be accurate if it's grounded in the wrong spot.
The Spartan will perform a calibration output sequence on startup so that you can calibrate the ECUs voltage input correctly. Some info on that: https://www.14point7.com/blogs/news/165 ... megasquirt

Just check the measured values while it does the startup sequence and use the spreadsheet in the link above to work out the new O2 calibration.
Hopefully you work out what's wrong with the sensor. One point of failure I have seen on those widebands which might be worth checking is the connection to the PCB. Since the connector is mounted directly on the circuit board it can get damaged when connecting/disconnecting the sensor if you put too much force and lever it.

Hey Bartman,
Thanks so much for the detailed reply.
Wired the wideband controller and gauge earth to the wire out of the MS3 recommended by MSLABS, it has a dedicated power out and earth for wideband, the heater is earthed to chassis up near the battery far away from ECU.

I wasn’t reading far out, 15 on tuner studio and 14.9 on the gauge and I put this down to how I earthed it because I have seen over on miataturbo plenty of people having trouble with the reading if earthed together.

Did a direct battery test today to Spartan and wideband and we have power but no heating of the element so I’m assuming I have damaged it at some point in the last couple years of it being moved around the garage in box’s or maybe was bad when it arrived.

Ordered a new sensor today from JRP (just race parts) they do heaps with 14point7 and is where I got the gauge from, they gave me a few tests to try and have been really helpful.
Hoping it to be here Monday or Tuesday.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bartmanftw]

Handy the ECU has that option for you. Sounds like it's all wired correctly then. The sensors can be a bit delicate so hopefully that is the issue and a new one works.

[Alex 2550]

Handy the ECU has that option for you. Sounds like it's all wired correctly then. The sensors can be a bit delicate so hopefully that is the issue and a new one works.

Me too mate, fingers crossed.
Thanks for all your help.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Alex 2550]

Been busy working on the house this week and going back and forth from the shop to do paperwork so not a heap of time spent on the MX but have a few little updates.

Firstly the new wideband o2 sensor showed up, I removed the old one and due to the lack of care I gave it a good shake to hear if there was any rattles
Sure enough you could hear the sensor rattling meaning the sensor was broken internally, plugged the new one in and powered it up in open air, BOOM FULL LEAN!! YAY!!.
Wrapped a rag with brake clean on it around the sensor and it went full rich so it is working but now I need to rewire it because I was recommended to do a direct battery test to confirm it all.

I also did some work of an evening on the radio blanking plate. In these photos none of the accessories are bolted down so you will see some items look like they aren’t straight but they will be once bolted down, purely for my OCD lol.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Alex 2550]

Got the 02 sensor in and been working on tuning, cold start is pretty good about 80% of the way there but going lean on hot start and idles rough, possibly have the duty cycle on the idle valve a little high so I need to work on both more. I am tuning in closed loop. Car isn’t stalling which is a bonus.

I have gone for the first drive and leaned out some cells in cruise, the base afr table was very rich and conservative, looking at other base maps the ignition table also looks conservative in comparison to other maps.

I will say the car is probably driving better already than on the standard ECU, I did 30-40km on auto tune with adjustments set to easy.

I’m really enjoying this as it takes some thinking.

This little upgrade arrived yesterday





Also while writing this I have got a notification saying the Kraken, manifold, 3 inch turbo back exhaust and intercooler kit has arrived in Sydney!

I need to learn a heap before I start tuning In boost so it will be some time before it’s fitted, I also want to port the wastegate on the turbo and match port it to the kraken manifold then look at ceramic coating the dump pipe and manifold.

I think I will look at making a heat shield for the charger rather than ceramic coating it, I have read a few stories of cooked bearings from retaining the heat, also as this is a cheaper turbo I want to see how it lasts before putting more money in it.
A turbosmart adjustable actuator is being fitted already with a 7psi spring.
Exciting times!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[The American]

I had my turbine housing and exhaust manifold ceramic coated with ‘the good stuff’. The dyno tune appears to have destroyed it.

Making a heat shield is the way to go I think!

[greenMachine]

I had my turbine housing and exhaust manifold ceramic coated with ‘the good stuff’. The dyno tune appears to have destroyed it.

Going to try and get your money back? A dyno session shouldn't do that, if the job was done properly!?

[Alex 2550]

I had my turbine housing and exhaust manifold ceramic coated with ‘the good stuff’. The dyno tune appears to have destroyed it.

Making a heat shield is the way to go I think!

Yer it’s interesting and I understand how it could cause an issue by coking the oil in the charger but plenty still recommended it.

now going off a Miata turbo posts that I take with a grain of salt (because internet stories aren’t always as factual as they seem) a guy posted on there that the turbo builder near him rebuilds far more coated turbos than not so maybe some truth in it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Alex 2550]

Have a look at this for a diy turbo heat shield, I think it’s clever.


https://www.supraforums.com/threads/diy ... cs.326366/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bruce]

My pod filter is located in the front wheel well. It was getting covered in water and sand so I fitted a black plastic flower pot over it, trimmed to size and looks quite neat. Filter is spotless now.

[The American]

Going to try and get your money back? A dyno session shouldn't do that, if the job was done properly!?

No, going to put it down as a snake oil experience. The interest tells me this is not that uncommon.

[Alex 2550]

So after spending so much time working on the MX lately it was nice to get it out over the weekend and put some KM on it, even took the hardtop off .
On Saturday I did a little tuning about 25km and on Sunday knocked out a couple hundred K’s with my wife and the dog who is a massive fan of the roadster life.


Well Monday came around with an email saying that a delivery was arriving from Kraken…… well it sort of did, it was delivered to the local shop not my house without being told.
anyway being a small town I called and they said “yep something on the veranda for you”
Well the intercooler was and an intercooler pipe but that’s about it, all of Tuesday was emails trying to find it and Wednesday morning as well because tracking said it was all left out the front of the local store…….
It was very much looking like it had gone missing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Alex 2550]

Thankfully this afternoon I received a call from my wife saying “you will be pleased to know your turbo stuff is here” woo hoo.

Now I have done an unboxing and a look over things but running out of light I haven’t unwrapped anything or obviously fitted anything yet.

What I can say is that it’s very rare that parts exceed expectations and this is one of those times, not only was the casting and welds of higher quality than expected there was more parts supplied than expected and again quality looks really good.

list of what has come.
-cast Kraken top mount manifold.
-cast kraken turbo to dump pipe flange.
-3 inch turbo back exhaust with highflow cat, resonator and rear muffler.
-V-bands for all exhaust joins.
-inconnel studs for manifold to turbo and turbo to dump pipe.
-copper lock nuts. (Will get stage 8 locking stuff)
-turbo oil and water lines and fittings.
-Blow off valve. (May use something else)
-air temp sensor. (Already have one)
-intercooler pipes, silicone joins and T-clamps.
-moulded silicone join for throttle body, bov and idle valve.
-Intercooler.
And a hoodie!!
Anyway everyone likes pictures so here is a couple quick ones from this afternoon and I will try get some better ones as it’s fitted.










Those of you that know this kit may of noticed I got a little custom touch with a twin exit rear muffler which should look really good with the bumper cut on my car.
It’s getting really exciting now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Alex 2550]

So what’s next before we start seeing positive manifold pressure?
Well this is a small list I have written down and there may be more. I have the radiator and injectors already.

For turbo to go on
-fit radiator and re-route.
- fit bigger injectors and tune.
- matchport manifold to turbo and port wastegate.
- ceramic coat manifold and dump pipe.
- Get new exhaust manifold gasket.
- Get respond 907ts thread locker liquid.
- Get turbosmart adjustable wastegate actuator
- Stage 8 nuts for manifold flange and dump pipe flange.
- make turbo heat shield.
- Make air box.
- Get air filter.
- Make intake.
-install MAC valve for boost control.
- Heat sleeve dipstick/brake lines.
- work out Catch can setup.
- Blank off cowl intake hole.
- Paint intercooler black.

So In short I have some stuff to get done that will take time and money, honestly the funds are getting down.

It’s ok because I’ll be doing some driving through all of this and be trying to keep the car drivable as much as possible. Basically I’ll get as much ready as I can before the time comes to start pulling the manifolds. I expect a couple months before we are turbo, I’m hoping before Christmas.
Finding a 6 speed is pretty high on priorities as well when I have the cash ready to go.

Once I get through this list I will be fitting the turbo to the BP05……. for now then focussing on getting the body work fixed up, fitting the bumpers, spoiler, GV lights ect that are constantly in my way.
Then probably enjoy driving it for a while.

I’ll still be building the BP4W with the TODA cams and Supertech/mazdaspeed bits then forging the bottom end but this will be a longer term goal while getting used to how the car drives.

This may be a couple years in the making but that’s the plan moving forward.

Thanks to everyone that has read this far.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk