I guess if the inside edge of the tire is what's rubbing the spacers might help, but you might start rubbing on the outside edge? See how it goes I guess.
The cutting board spacers as described my GM are a good idea, you could do it pretty easily with a stencil and a band saw, and I think is the best option after you run out of coilover adjustment.
GM also raises a good point about the upper control arm, I'll try to find photos of mine to better illustrate. The inside edge of the hole the shock passes through the upper arm on NBs has a re-enforcement plate welded in. This makes the hole smaller, my shocks wore on this edge a little and I had to grind it down. I don't think you're affecting this geometery until you get the ELBJs though, but it's something to be aware of for sure.
Hub Centric Wheel Spacers
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- ManiacLachy
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Re: Hub Centric Wheel Spacers
Thanks for the heads up on the possible ELBJ clash, Maniac.
Did you get feedback through the steering wheel or a rubbing/grinding noise?
I found some good info on Wheel Spacers....particularly the last few points.
https://www.maximummotorsports.com/tech ... acers.aspx
Did you get feedback through the steering wheel or a rubbing/grinding noise?
I found some good info on Wheel Spacers....particularly the last few points.
https://www.maximummotorsports.com/tech ... acers.aspx
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Re: Hub Centric Wheel Spacers
OK, I found pictures of the control arm, but they're not great.
This is the stock arm, in the top left you can see re-enforcement piece going across the inboard edge of the hole.
And here it is installed, but with the edge ground down. This is the not so great pic
This is the stock arm, in the top left you can see re-enforcement piece going across the inboard edge of the hole.
And here it is installed, but with the edge ground down. This is the not so great pic
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Re: Hub Centric Wheel Spacers
thanks for finding the photos and posting them.
I get the picture...
Did you get feedback of the problem through the steering or was it more a banging/clanking noise?
I get the picture...
Did you get feedback of the problem through the steering or was it more a banging/clanking noise?
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Re: Hub Centric Wheel Spacers
Maniac,
just looking at photo2...reminded me
If I fit a 5mm thick (through-bolt) flat Wheel Spacer...
and keep my existing Hub Centric Rings in my wheels (effectively 54.1mm I.D. same as Hub O.D.)
see attached sketch.
Will I still have enough landing area on the Hub....to locate the wheel (albeit with H/C Ring)??
I don't have the car here (it's at my brothers and he's away)...otherwise I would measure it.
cheers,
Jim
just looking at photo2...reminded me
If I fit a 5mm thick (through-bolt) flat Wheel Spacer...
and keep my existing Hub Centric Rings in my wheels (effectively 54.1mm I.D. same as Hub O.D.)
see attached sketch.
Will I still have enough landing area on the Hub....to locate the wheel (albeit with H/C Ring)??
I don't have the car here (it's at my brothers and he's away)...otherwise I would measure it.
cheers,
Jim
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- ManiacLachy
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Re: Hub Centric Wheel Spacers
Oh righht, I forgot to answer that. I didn't notice any feed back issues when the contact was occuring, I was just regularly getitng under the car for various things and noticed it. I think someone on MiataTurbo.net might have mentioned it in their build and maybe prompted me to check? His shock was nearly worn through, he replaced it because he felt the body of the shock was compromised. Mine was just some flattening of the threads where contact was made.
I don't know enough about spacers to definively answer your question. I think you're good as long as you have enough thread engagement on your lugs, ie if your studs are long enough for everything.
I don't know enough about spacers to definively answer your question. I think you're good as long as you have enough thread engagement on your lugs, ie if your studs are long enough for everything.
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Re: Hub Centric Wheel Spacers
pdsman53 wrote:Will I still have enough landing area on the Hub....to locate the wheel (albeit with H/C Ring)??
The best answer to this question is to remove the hub centric rings. When the wheel nuts are tightened they do nothing, all the loadings are handled by the wheel studs/nuts and the friction between the wheel and hub faces arising from the tension in the wheel studs.
ML, from memory there was a discussion on mt.net arising from a badly damaged shock body, as you describe. The consensus was that it was an unusual occurrence but avoidable by grinding the reinforced piece for better clearance.
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