Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

Postby ManiacLachy » Mon Sep 30, 2019 1:49 pm

Lokiel wrote:You need to get a shot of your dog sitting on the engine block - "A boxer on a boxer"!

Lol, I love it. I don't think he would though! I might end up with some scratches around the engine bay. I'll get a shot of him in the boot, close enough.

I'm not stressed on the gauge thing, I know we'll get to it. I suspect some voltage fluctuation coming from somewhere is what's freezing the screen. But I also want to sort out the oil temp and pressure readings, and get the wideband digital signal going into MS.

But I suspect my car will be "pulling a Gina" for the next month or so and living on jack stands while I sort out the timing belt job and suspension. And maybe the intake manifold if I get really adventurous.

SKYHI wrote:Well done mate. I love my Skoda Octavis RS wagon, it has all the space, practicality, comfort and speed I need for a daily driver.

No more stressing about having to get the SE jobs finished on a weekend :)

Exactly! A wagon is the perfect compliment to a 2 seat roadster.

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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

Postby Lokiel » Mon Sep 30, 2019 2:52 pm

ManiacLachy wrote:
Lokiel wrote:You need to get a shot of your dog sitting on the engine block - "A boxer on a boxer"!

Lol, I love it. I don't think he would though! I might end up with some scratches around the engine bay. I'll get a shot of him in the boot, close enough.
:

Get some video footage of it too with the dog doing some low growling, then tell everyone it's a Porsche (since the engine is in the boot) but that it's running a little "Ruff"! (or not purring like you'd hoped)
Don't worry about dying, worry about not living!
Garage Thread: http://www.mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=76716

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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

Postby Daffy » Thu Oct 03, 2019 8:34 pm

Excellent choice for a daily mate, especially with consideration for the fur child! So what name have you chosen for the new wheels?
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StanTheMan wrote:sweet, Its not all about huge hp.

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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

Postby StanTheMan » Fri Oct 04, 2019 8:49 am

I really like the idea of the B6....


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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

Postby ManiacLachy » Fri Oct 04, 2019 9:09 am

The car has been great all week. Fuel economy is sitting around 9.4L/100km for my daily commute, not great, but better than what I was led to believe Subaru's would do. Gearing is a little different, 5th and 6th both seem like overdrive, I wonder if 4th is the 1:1 gear? Basically 5th is useless for anything other than cruising at 60kph, have to downshift to go up slight hills.

This facelift model came with S-Drive, which is basically a mode selector. I - Intelligent is meant to be the economy mode, but is completely gutless. S - Sport is the normal mode. And S# - Sport Sharp I guess? Is the power mode. I believe the change is basically a little more throttle for given inputs (electronic throttle body), and increased boost. I've been using S the whole time, with the occasional S# for giggles. Next week I might try to use I mode, to see what kind of a difference it makes and if I can live with it. With the price of petrol right now any conservation might be worth it. I expect the I mode makes the most difference in stop-start traffic, limiting how much fuel you use to accelerate, but on a highway where you're in a steady state I doubt it makes much difference.

I won't lie, I have searched for wheels :oops: But, won't be buying for some time yet. That kind of money would go far on the MX-5.

I'm already missing driving the MX-5 a little. Hope to get started on the timing belt this weekend, it's a long weekend so I should be able to get it done, or at least mostly complete.

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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

Postby ManiacLachy » Tue Oct 08, 2019 10:06 am

Taking full advantage of my new found daily driver, I started the timing belt job on Sunday, with no intention of having it completed in time for work Tuesday morning :mrgreen:

On Sunday I managed the disassembly, went pretty well. I had to run out and buy a heat gun to help get some hoses loose. And it was helpful once again in a short minute to get the crank pulley off. I bought a Lisle seal puller which made extracting the cam and crank seals a piece of cake! And using the Flying Miata timing belt tool kit to install new seals was also a very simple affair.

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Stripped down

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FM crank seal installer tool

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FM cam seal installer tool

Monday, after getting in a squat session at the gym (pre-fatiguing myself!), I began putting things back together. I bought an ATI Harmonic Damper to go on in place of the stock damper, and along with it a 36-2 trigger wheel from Fab9. This was a bit of a bastard job. Even though the ATI damper is supposed to go on a little easier now than previously, it was still an extremely tight press fit. With the car in gear (6th), and the hand brake on, I was still rocking the car on it's wheels while tightening it. I hope I got it to torque spec. Finished up Monday with the belt timed (I hope), the cover plates back on, and the valve cover cleaned up. No photos of the work on Monday :cry:

Probably be a few weeks before I actually finish up, and find out if/what I messed up. Only a few hours available in the next few weekends, so we'll see how it progresses. Still to do accessory belts, a few new hoses, button it all up, and a couple of side jobs while I'm in there. But I'm in no great rush.

This has been a fairly intimidating job for me, but something I've wanted to do. Swapping to the ATI damper has made it a harder job than it otherwise would be, but now's a good time to do it. I'm a bit beat up from the work so far, but hopefully the worst is behind me.

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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

Postby StanTheMan » Tue Oct 08, 2019 12:25 pm

first time was daunting for me as well.
we drilled a hole in the Front seal & removed it withy a screw. took all of 5 minutes. I was expecting this to take for ever.

instead it was the cams that took forever .....LOL....which had an expectation of 10 minutes. LOL
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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

Postby KevGoat » Tue Oct 08, 2019 1:00 pm

Great job Lachy. This is one task that really scares me, but so do the labor costs to have it done, and like you I'd like to challenge myself. The one aspect that has encouraged me to do all the work so far on my MX-5's has been having another vehicle handy, so time has never mattered and that makes a huge difference. Plus the difference in costs easily pays for the right tools required, with change left over for other upgrades. Well done...

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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

Postby ManiacLachy » Tue Oct 08, 2019 1:37 pm

Thanks guys.

I think I'd only just come in under the cost to have it done professionally once parts and new tools are factored in, but it's a learning experience, makes me more familiar with the workings of the car, and the tools will come in handy again without a doubt.

Stan, the tool I bought for pulling the seals is this one: https://www.gettoolsdirect.com.au/lisle-shaft-type-seal-puller-58430.html

And it could not have been easier. Less than 10 seconds for the first seal, even faster for 2 and 3. No risk of damage to the mating surface. For the cams, I've seen people just unbolt the cam cap and pull the seal out, so that's easy. But I've seen horror stories of people marring up their crank with screws and what not, so I wanted to do it the easy way! I highly recommend this tool, <$70 for the tool, vs possible crank damage ($$$) - easy choice.

But we're not done yet! Not until I crank and she starts. :shock:

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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

Postby SKYHI » Wed Oct 09, 2019 3:36 pm

Kudos to you mate for taking on the challenge. Will be very satisfying to have done it all yourself.

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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

Postby ManiacLachy » Sun Nov 03, 2019 9:35 am

Well this is taking far longer than I had hoped. I've bit off a bit more than I can swallow. I guess I just need to chew chew chew.

So, I've made it harder for myself in a few ways. First, I'm installing the ATI Damper with a new 36-2 trigger wheel rather than reusing the OEM damper and trigger wheel. Next, I'm swapping out the OEM sway bar braces for AWR re-enforced sway bar braces, you need the radiator out to do this, so now is a good time to do it. Finally, I need to swap my Xidas back in after their re-re-build.

Last weekend I got the front of the engine all bolted up. New by-pass hoses installed, everything plugged back in, pretty much ready for the radiator to go in and attempt a start. I just had to do the sway bar mounts first.

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The FM crank tool works with the ATI damper, I wish I figured this out sooner!

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Nearly done ...

But the crank sensor looked a little off in regards to it's alignment with the trigger wheel. The trigger wheel is lining up with the front edge of the sensor, surely it should be more centred? This would suggest the damper isn't fully seated, but it's torqued to 120-125 ft/lbs. I think I messed up the woodruff key, it has a chamfered edge that should be on the back edge facing down, I realise I didn't pay attention to it's position. I have a 1 in 4 chance I messed it up. If I got it wrong, I expect it would prevent the crank from going in about 1mm extra. Crap.

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That doesn't look right to me, should be a little further in :cry:

If anyone else has an ATI damper installed, could you take a look and see how yours is aligned? Just for a sanity check? Pretty Please?

It might work as is, but I think I need to pull the damper and ensure the key is in the right way. Which means disassembling the front of the engine again. And I expect the damper to put up a fight coming off. I'll definitely need to go buy a puller. And I should get a new crank bolt because this one is probably stretched a little.

Right, that'll be for another day, I can't face it right now and there's other work to do!

The stock sway bar mounts are just pressed steal. They're light and flimsy and are known to crack with sticky tires and bigger sway bars. Which I have. One solution is the Racing Beat sway bar blocks, which I have been using in the past. They work well, but they're a pain in the arse every time I need do pull the front suspension to extract the long bolt, and it's made worse because the SE cold side intercooler piping gets in the way of the bolts. I wanted to swap over to the AWR mounts, which are a re-enforced boxed in design.

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The AWR mounts are much much sturdier

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And they have a convenient tunnel for the long bolt to pass through

The radiator has to come out to mount these, so while doing the timing belt with the radiator out is a good opportunity. You also need to remove the brackets holding the AC condenser. The stock mounts are held in place by 4 bolts and 2 spot welds each, need to drill out the spot welds and then pry the bracket away from the frame rail. To drill out the spot welds I bought a spot weld drill bit. Didn't really work all that well, I had to follow it up with a 7mm drill bit and finally an 8mm drill bit.

Then installing the mounts should be easy, but they're a very tight fit. I got the passenger side one on, then re-fit the AC condenser bracket, only to discover there's some interference between the two. I'm going to need to cut out a notch on the bracket.

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Cut along the dotted line

On to the driver side, removal of stock went a lot easier with my experience from the first one, but getting it on is proving more difficult. I need to remove the lower intercooler hardpipe to get clear access to press the brace into place. At this point I'd had enough yesterday. I was pretty knackered.

The only thing to go smoothly recently was the install of some new seatbelt tower caps. Mine went AWOL when Automotive Plus installed my roll bar many moons ago. While ordering a few pieces from MX-5 Mania recently for the timing belt job I also picked up a set of these to press in.

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Ugly and exposed

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Much nicer, and something that went in easily!

Hopefully today I'll get the sway bar braces mounted for good. And with luck and perseverance I'll get the front Xidas installed.

Like I said at the start, this is taking way longer than planned, I'll get through it eventually. I miss driving my MX-5. I'm very grateful for having the Subaru for daily duties, it's been doing great, but it's not as engaging to drive as the MX-5!

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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

Postby Daffy » Sun Nov 03, 2019 11:00 pm

So much work mate!!! The results will be well worth it :wink:
StanTheMan wrote:sweet, Its not all about huge hp.

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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

Postby StanTheMan » Mon Nov 04, 2019 8:15 am

nice work Lachy. cant wait to hear the result. find out how she revs. What about your oil pump? did i miss you upgrading that?

i recon my oil pump was perhaps on the broken side...occasionally saw low oil pressure. after extend times of hard driving.....I put it down to just being a BP & therefore being slightly different to the B6.

I threw a bearing or something as a result.

Got a BP-Z3 on the way now.
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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

Postby RS2000 » Mon Nov 04, 2019 8:33 am

Lachy, if the crank key isn't fully in due to the taper not being in the correct place, then you haven't got maximum drive engagement, but I can't see that stopping the other components going fully on. Something would have to butt against the end of the key for that to happen.

I can't see you requiring a new crank bolt, as you torqued to specs, not way above.

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Re: Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

Postby ManiacLachy » Mon Nov 04, 2019 9:02 am

StanTheMan wrote:nice work Lachy. cant wait to hear the result. find out how she revs. What about your oil pump? did i miss you upgrading that?

i recon my oil pump was perhaps on the broken side...occasionally saw low oil pressure. after extend times of hard driving.....I put it down to just being a BP & therefore being slightly different to the B6.

I threw a bearing or something as a result.

Got a BP-Z3 on the way now.

No, stock oil pump. I don't think that's an easy job with the engine in situ, you'd have to drop the pan wouldn't you? I'm hoping the damper makes for a smoother engine in general, and gives some crank protection. I don't spend too long at high revs, hopefully not an issue. Also, hope the trigger wheel's added timing resolution is beneficial.

RS2000 wrote:Lachy, if the crank key isn't fully in due to the taper not being in the correct place, then you haven't got maximum drive engagement, but I can't see that stopping the other components going fully on. Something would have to butt against the end of the key for that to happen.

I can't see you requiring a new crank bolt, as you torqued to specs, not way above.

Thanks mate.

My thinking is if a square edge is going into the round corner it won't get fully seated, so the key will protrude a 1mm or 2mm, then the crank bolt will but up against the key and instead of torquing the damper to the crank, I'm torquing the key to the crank and the damper has a little extra to go.

It's one of those things, it might be OK as is, I might have done it right. But I have a question in my mind, and I'd rather double check it than cause damage. Even though I really don't want to pull the belts down again. Shouldn't be so hard the 2nd time, right?

Daffy wrote:So much work mate!!! The results will be well worth it :wink:

Let's hope! I've got various future projects in mind, of course, but I think I might leave anything major for a few months and just enjoy! It's getting too hot to be in the garage for long right now anyway.

I didn't get far with my plans for Sunday. I tried to put the second sway bar brace on, but it's being a bit of a prick (what a surprise!). And won't full seat on the frame rail. I tried jacking it into place, which just raises the car! I managed to get all 4 bolts in, but it's still not fully in place. I left it jacked about 2mm off the jack stand with the trolley jack lifting up on the brace, hopefully gravity will press it in.

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Nothing dodgy here!

I needed to use the mallet because the hammer head allows me to get better pressure on the brace which is blocked by the intercooler pipe. Bolts are in only loosely. No I did not go under the car like this! And, it's only slightly off the jack stand on one corner. If this doesn't work I guess I'll have to pull the brace out and grind a little of the insides to make room.

I also re-assembled my Xida's ready for install. Got some new shiny bits for them in the hope of not replicating my previous issues. I'll detail that when I do the install.


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