Trav’s Race Build: from B6 to Big Bore BP-Z3
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- Scoota
- Fast Driver
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- Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2008 9:07 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Traralgon, Victoria
Re: Trav’s Race Build: from B6 to Big Bore BP-Z3
Hey Folks, just a quick update...
Lots of parts have been arriving over the past week: pistons, valves, rods, bearings, main & head studs, gasket kit, injectors, etc. The block machining will start next week, and bottom end assembly will follow soon after.
I’m waiting on camshafts, headers and the ITB/head adapter plate, so the top end assembly will have to wait for a bit.
Also, a set of SE brake calipers that I bought years ago are finally being dusted off and inspected. The pistons look great, so a new set of seals and some new braided lines is all that I need to get those in. I’ll rebuild the SE master cylinder soon, and give the SE booster a once over too. The SE rotors will be machined and installed onto new ARP wheel studs in the near future.
Progress!!
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Lots of parts have been arriving over the past week: pistons, valves, rods, bearings, main & head studs, gasket kit, injectors, etc. The block machining will start next week, and bottom end assembly will follow soon after.
I’m waiting on camshafts, headers and the ITB/head adapter plate, so the top end assembly will have to wait for a bit.
Also, a set of SE brake calipers that I bought years ago are finally being dusted off and inspected. The pistons look great, so a new set of seals and some new braided lines is all that I need to get those in. I’ll rebuild the SE master cylinder soon, and give the SE booster a once over too. The SE rotors will be machined and installed onto new ARP wheel studs in the near future.
Progress!!
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-
- Fast Driver
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Re: Trav’s Race Build: from B6 to Big Bore BP-Z3
NICE, and i'm following
-
- Speed Racer
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Re: Trav’s Race Build: from B6 to Big Bore BP-Z3
Scoota wrote:Also, a set of SE brake calipers that I bought years ago are finally being dusted off and inspected. The pistons look great, so a new set of seals and some new braided lines is all that I need to get those in.
Also consider replacing the slider pins and having spare slider pins in the tool box.
- Scoota
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Re: Trav’s Race Build: from B6 to Big Bore BP-Z3
Magpie wrote:Also consider replacing the slider pins and having spare slider pins in the tool box.
I will inspect them to make sure they are not worn and prone to jamming or sticky operation. If there is no obvious damage, I will probably use what I have.
Why do you recommend carrying spares?
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- Speed Racer
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Re: Trav’s Race Build: from B6 to Big Bore BP-Z3
Because they wear out quickly on a race car and for the rears at least the nut to screw the slider pin out is easily stripped. Provided you grease them after every few track days and rotate the pads (swap inside for outside) you should have no issues. That being said spares like this are always handy.Scoota wrote:Why do you recommend carrying spares?
- Scoota
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- Location: Traralgon, Victoria
Re: Trav’s Race Build: from B6 to Big Bore BP-Z3
Great advice, thanks Magpie.
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- Scoota
- Fast Driver
- Posts: 214
- Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2008 9:07 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Traralgon, Victoria
Re: Trav’s Race Build: from B6 to Big Bore BP-Z3
Hi Folks.
I’m happy to report that my brake caliper slider pins are all in great condition and fit for service. A couple of cleaning brushes were consumed in the process, but I’m sure you’ll agree the results are worth it!!
[IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190908/5ec4e420b5dfb777870c156614552c1b.jpg
[/IMG]
It’s only a recent acquisition, but my kero bath is worth it’s weight in gold for this sort of work. And my most recent revelation... Brass bristle cleaning brushes! They are magic for this sort of work!!!
Time to order some piston seal kits.
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I’m happy to report that my brake caliper slider pins are all in great condition and fit for service. A couple of cleaning brushes were consumed in the process, but I’m sure you’ll agree the results are worth it!!
[IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190908/5ec4e420b5dfb777870c156614552c1b.jpg
[/IMG]
It’s only a recent acquisition, but my kero bath is worth it’s weight in gold for this sort of work. And my most recent revelation... Brass bristle cleaning brushes! They are magic for this sort of work!!!
Time to order some piston seal kits.
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-
- Racing Driver
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Re: Trav’s Race Build: from B6 to Big Bore BP-Z3
Wow, they look brand new!!
- Scoota
- Fast Driver
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- Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2008 9:07 am
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- Location: Traralgon, Victoria
Re: Trav’s Race Build: from B6 to Big Bore BP-Z3
Hi Folks. Time for an update!
Since the joy of making old things new again (see the calipers above) I have had a few ups and downs. Let’s start with the downs...
I’ve never been able to dial in enough negative camber (based on the temp profile measured across the tyre), so some time ago I bought the extended lower ball joints for the front tie rods (very common mod). I got close to having enough negative camber, but I wasn’t happy with how little thread was engaged on the tie rod outer end, so again I never quite got there. My rule of thumb for tie rod ends (and other fasteners) is that I want no less than 1.5 times the diameter of the rod I’m engaged thread (12 x 1.5 = 18mm). They play a pretty important role (keeping me off the concrete walls), so I want that thread engagement to mitigate against possible failure.
So, in pursuit of longer tie rods and perhaps the advantage of bump steer adjustability, I bought an “SPL Parts Bump Steer Adjustable Tie Rod End Kit”. Not cheap, once you add shipping from the U.S.A. I stripped the OEM tie rods off my steering rack, started to install the SPL Parts tie rods, and noticed something that worried me...
The male thread on the SPL Parts inner tie rod end is significantly shorter than the original Mazda part. So, I took some measurements and made some notes...
What?! Only 4.6 engaged threads??!!!!! You’ve gotta be kidding me. Why would they do that??!!!!!
Anyway, I’ve just finished reassembling the rack tonight with the OEM tie rods. The SPL Parts tie rods may be up for sale if I don’t get my money back from them. If you would like to try to convince me that they are fit for purpose, please go ahead, but I don’t think I could ever trust them.
Sadly, I haven’t been able to find an Australian supplier of the one-use locking tab washers located in either end of the rack, inboard of the inner tie rod ends. Does anyone know where I can get two of these? I have assembled the rack temporarily with the old ones, but new items will be required before I hit the track.
Okay, so that’s the crappy story, but it hasn’t been all bad news. A box arrived today, carrying a part that I’ve been hunting for about 6 weeks. I wasn’t sure if I had the right part, but now that I’ve got my hands on it, I reckon I’ve nailed it!!
The fuel rail from an NA8A!! This fits onto the BP-Z3 head (or valve cover?) and includes a fuel return line, so I can run my NA6 fuel pressure regulator (upside down) and use both the feed and return fuel lines that are in the car. This method is prescribed by the CarPassion VVT swap guide, and also by the “VVT Swap Definitive Guide”, so who am I to question it?!
This is one part of the VVT swap recipe that had eluded me, so I am relieved to finally have it!
I have loads of other stories to tell, some good and some not great, but it’s very late again and these late nights are killing me! I’ll finish on another high though... My eBay manifold log arrived!!!
Until next time!!
Zzzzzzz......
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Since the joy of making old things new again (see the calipers above) I have had a few ups and downs. Let’s start with the downs...
I’ve never been able to dial in enough negative camber (based on the temp profile measured across the tyre), so some time ago I bought the extended lower ball joints for the front tie rods (very common mod). I got close to having enough negative camber, but I wasn’t happy with how little thread was engaged on the tie rod outer end, so again I never quite got there. My rule of thumb for tie rod ends (and other fasteners) is that I want no less than 1.5 times the diameter of the rod I’m engaged thread (12 x 1.5 = 18mm). They play a pretty important role (keeping me off the concrete walls), so I want that thread engagement to mitigate against possible failure.
So, in pursuit of longer tie rods and perhaps the advantage of bump steer adjustability, I bought an “SPL Parts Bump Steer Adjustable Tie Rod End Kit”. Not cheap, once you add shipping from the U.S.A. I stripped the OEM tie rods off my steering rack, started to install the SPL Parts tie rods, and noticed something that worried me...
The male thread on the SPL Parts inner tie rod end is significantly shorter than the original Mazda part. So, I took some measurements and made some notes...
What?! Only 4.6 engaged threads??!!!!! You’ve gotta be kidding me. Why would they do that??!!!!!
Anyway, I’ve just finished reassembling the rack tonight with the OEM tie rods. The SPL Parts tie rods may be up for sale if I don’t get my money back from them. If you would like to try to convince me that they are fit for purpose, please go ahead, but I don’t think I could ever trust them.
Sadly, I haven’t been able to find an Australian supplier of the one-use locking tab washers located in either end of the rack, inboard of the inner tie rod ends. Does anyone know where I can get two of these? I have assembled the rack temporarily with the old ones, but new items will be required before I hit the track.
Okay, so that’s the crappy story, but it hasn’t been all bad news. A box arrived today, carrying a part that I’ve been hunting for about 6 weeks. I wasn’t sure if I had the right part, but now that I’ve got my hands on it, I reckon I’ve nailed it!!
The fuel rail from an NA8A!! This fits onto the BP-Z3 head (or valve cover?) and includes a fuel return line, so I can run my NA6 fuel pressure regulator (upside down) and use both the feed and return fuel lines that are in the car. This method is prescribed by the CarPassion VVT swap guide, and also by the “VVT Swap Definitive Guide”, so who am I to question it?!
This is one part of the VVT swap recipe that had eluded me, so I am relieved to finally have it!
I have loads of other stories to tell, some good and some not great, but it’s very late again and these late nights are killing me! I’ll finish on another high though... My eBay manifold log arrived!!!
Until next time!!
Zzzzzzz......
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Scoota
- Fast Driver
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- Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2008 9:07 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Traralgon, Victoria
Re: Trav’s Race Build: from B6 to Big Bore BP-Z3
Scoota wrote:
The fuel rail from an NA8A!!
He he, whoops!! I meant to say “NB8A”, but you guys knew what I meant, right?
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- plohl
- Racing Driver
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- Location: Brisbane
Re: Trav’s Race Build: from B6 to Big Bore BP-Z3
funny it took you so long to find the fuel rail - I've had one for sale for probably a year now with no interest haha
Cheers,
plohl
plohl
- Scoota
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- Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2008 9:07 am
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- Location: Traralgon, Victoria
Re: Trav’s Race Build: from B6 to Big Bore BP-Z3
plohl wrote:funny it took you so long to find the fuel rail - I've had one for sale for probably a year now with no interest haha
Hilarious!! I guess I was looking in the wrong places! Maybe I should have posted a WTB in the Classifieds. Next time.
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- Location: Newcastle
Re: Trav’s Race Build: from B6 to Big Bore BP-Z3
Re locking washer
http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=77653
I have some spares but sorry, keeping them
http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=77653
I have some spares but sorry, keeping them
- Scoota
- Fast Driver
- Posts: 214
- Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2008 9:07 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Traralgon, Victoria
Re: Trav’s Race Build: from B6 to Big Bore BP-Z3
Hey GR124, thanks for the tip-off! I’ve never used Amayama before, but I just ordered 8-off steering rack lock washers, part # HA1432146 to suit my NA6 rack. They’re due in on 7-10-2019.
This forum is the best!!
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This forum is the best!!
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- Scoota
- Fast Driver
- Posts: 214
- Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2008 9:07 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Traralgon, Victoria
Re: Trav’s Race Build: from B6 to Big Bore BP-Z3
Hey, because you guys are all awesome, maybe you can help me find some new wheel nuts?
I have Konig Feather wheels on my car in 15 x 6.5”. They’re beautiful and I love them, but they are also a pain in the arse. They have deep and narrow sockets for the wheel nuts, which has made finding replacement wheel nuts very difficult. I’ve shopped around, and even ordered a couple of different sets, but none have fitted. Here they are...
As you can see, they have a deep socket in the wheel, about 33mm to the bottom of the taper from the highest part of the wheel spoke. This means that I need really long wheel nuts, and I haven’t been able to find replacements.
As you can see from the pics, my current wheel nuts are alloy jobbies made by “WORK”, with “S” branding on them (my interpretation of the etchings). Here is a sketch...
Do you guys know where I can get a new set of these? The current wheel nuts have been on the car for 10 years plus, and I’m starting to worry that the threads are bruising and losing some of their magic life-saving abilities.
I’ll be fitting ARP wheel studs on the weekend. Until now I have only had only 18mm of engaged thread on the studs due to their relatively short length. The ARP studs are much longer, so I will have the full 24mm of thread working for me. Happy days! So, I’m not concerned about a failure in the near future, but replacement nuts are going to be required one day.
Can anyone point me in the direction of a wheel nut solution that might do the trick?
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I have Konig Feather wheels on my car in 15 x 6.5”. They’re beautiful and I love them, but they are also a pain in the arse. They have deep and narrow sockets for the wheel nuts, which has made finding replacement wheel nuts very difficult. I’ve shopped around, and even ordered a couple of different sets, but none have fitted. Here they are...
As you can see, they have a deep socket in the wheel, about 33mm to the bottom of the taper from the highest part of the wheel spoke. This means that I need really long wheel nuts, and I haven’t been able to find replacements.
As you can see from the pics, my current wheel nuts are alloy jobbies made by “WORK”, with “S” branding on them (my interpretation of the etchings). Here is a sketch...
Do you guys know where I can get a new set of these? The current wheel nuts have been on the car for 10 years plus, and I’m starting to worry that the threads are bruising and losing some of their magic life-saving abilities.
I’ll be fitting ARP wheel studs on the weekend. Until now I have only had only 18mm of engaged thread on the studs due to their relatively short length. The ARP studs are much longer, so I will have the full 24mm of thread working for me. Happy days! So, I’m not concerned about a failure in the near future, but replacement nuts are going to be required one day.
Can anyone point me in the direction of a wheel nut solution that might do the trick?
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