Hawk+ brake squeal

[bliu6757]

Reviving this thread.

Ok.. so a few weeks ago I did a track event @ Wakefield with the same set up mentioned above (hawk plus + dba t3). Brakes felt great and even had Harry bates comment on how confident he feels stepping on these. I went a little overboard that day and did 109 laps. All was fine. The drive home is about 2.5 hour drive back to Sydney. Got home with a dusty wheel but no sound. The next however I noticed the squealing came back. It was moderately loud.

Didn’t touch the set up and went to Wakefield the following Sunday with mx5 club. The brakes were still holding up alright and I did 37 laps before returning back to Sydney. The sound on the way back became louder and suspected that the pads/ rotors were glazed.

Today I finally had the opportunity to work on the car and decided to metal brush + sandpaper the brakes and rotors. As well as lubing up all components. The internal pads were shiny and the external pads had a built up of dust on the corner. Pics below for reference. I actually do not know what glazed pads or normal pads should look like, so please comment if you do know. Anyways, a minor change this time was that I left the metal shims out and just lubed the back of the pads and calipers. After putting it all together, the noise got louder!! Really not sure what I have done wrong.

Moving on, is it possible to deglaze/resurface the pads. I know that it is possible to do it to the rotors.


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[Magpie]

Wear in the corners suggests a sticking slider pin. Are the pads worn evenly?

You maybe able to redo the bed in procedure. Especially after hitting them with sandpaper and a wire brush, which is something I would never do by the way!

Be aware that pads have an operating temp range outside this range you will have issues. Too cold and wear will be excessive (and noisy) and too hot all the pad material on the rotors will be taken off.

If your rotors look polished and there is no pad material on them then they have been overheated and would suggest that you need some ducting to keep them cooler. Also a good chance your fluid needs to be replaced.

Heat moves to cold, hence once the thermal capacity of the rotors is exceeded your pads, calipers and fluid become the the next thermal storage banks (in that order)...

Invest in some temperature strips on your calipers to record temps. These are cheap and stops you guessing.

Please no sandpaper or wire brushes on rotors. Either have them machined if changing pad types, normally to a less aggressive pad. If installing same pads just follow the bed in procedure as this will lay a new layer of pad material on the rotor. If going to a more aggressive pad these will clean off and allow a new pad material layer to be put on the rotors.

Also the pad material will look like cracks at times, run your fingernail over them and it should not catch. If it catches you have a cracked rotor. Anyway you can feel a cracked rotor through the brake pedal...