Engine failure - swap compatibility?
Moderators: timk, Stu, zombie, Andrew, The American, Lokiel, -alex, miata, StanTheMan, greenMachine, ManiacLachy, Daffy
- hks_kansei
- Speed Racer
- Posts: 6154
- Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2009 10:43 am
- Vehicle: NB8A
- Location: Victoria
Re: Engine failure - swap compatibility?
I'd really suggest trying to source another BP4W
swapping like for like will be a heap easier in troubleshooting and actually installing.
Plus, BP4Ws are usually a little cheaper than the VVT.
Do MX5 plus have any in stock? from memory they have decent pricing (granted, i;ve never bought from them since they're at the opposite end of the country)
swapping like for like will be a heap easier in troubleshooting and actually installing.
Plus, BP4Ws are usually a little cheaper than the VVT.
Do MX5 plus have any in stock? from memory they have decent pricing (granted, i;ve never bought from them since they're at the opposite end of the country)
1999 Mazda MX5 - 1989 Honda CT110 (for sale) - 1994 Mazda 626 wagon (GF's)
- StanTheMan
- Forum legend
- Posts: 6824
- Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2003 11:00 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Balgowlah
Re: Engine failure - swap compatibility?
one way to find out if you have VVT controll is have a look. You need tuner studio.Its a free download if you don't have it. It will also tell you what MS version you have once you are connected.
Satans Ride called F33nix the resurrected NA6
-
- Forum Guru
- Posts: 4897
- Joined: Mon Apr 24, 2006 7:27 pm
- Vehicle: NA8
- Location: Moruya, NSW
Re: Engine failure - swap compatibility?
hks_kansei wrote:I'd really suggest trying to source another BP4W
This. x2
’95 NA8
- 1600Dave
- Fast Driver
- Posts: 146
- Joined: Tue May 05, 2015 9:32 am
- Vehicle: NB8B
- Location: Newcastle, NSW
Re: Engine failure - swap compatibility?
StanTheMan wrote:I’d pull the head off & check before you remove the whole engine
Skifey wrote:My only qualm is the time and effort (I've never taken a head off myself) involved in doing this versus the likelihood I know that the BPs are pretty solid and like you said, aren't known for this sort of thing and I concur. I also have to consider the fact that my engine has been running hot for a year or so... god only knows what components I've worn out by doing this.
You'd have the head off in 2 hours. I doubt very much that its a dropped valve, based on you driving it 35k's to work and back after it started making the noise, from my experience of dropping a valve (admittedly in a vintage bike), you'd be lucky to go 35 metres afterwards.
- hks_kansei
- Speed Racer
- Posts: 6154
- Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2009 10:43 am
- Vehicle: NB8A
- Location: Victoria
Re: Engine failure - swap compatibility?
1600Dave wrote:the head off in 2 hours. I doubt very much that its a dropped valve, based on you driving it 35k's to work and back after it started making the noise, from my experience of dropping a valve (admittedly in a vintage bike), you'd be lucky to go 35 metres afterwards.
Depends on luck really.
my gf's old workplace had a car come in with the complaint that it was down on power and running a bit rough, and had been for a few years.
The valve was embedded into the piston, and had been for those few years.
It was just pure luck that it didnt touch the bore, and only left a single dent in the head where it got slammed into the piston face.
But in relation to the OP, if you're not 100% what it is, at the very least borrow/buy a bore scope to have a peek inside.
1999 Mazda MX5 - 1989 Honda CT110 (for sale) - 1994 Mazda 626 wagon (GF's)
-
- Forum Guru
- Posts: 4897
- Joined: Mon Apr 24, 2006 7:27 pm
- Vehicle: NA8
- Location: Moruya, NSW
Re: Engine failure - swap compatibility?
hks_kansei wrote:But in relation to the OP, if you're not 100% what it is, at the very least borrow/buy a bore scope to have a peek inside.
Also could be worthwhile to disconnect the drive belts for the A/C pump, steering pump, water pump and alternator just to make sure that one of those is not making all the noise. Then make sure the harmonic balancer hasn't disintegrated.
’95 NA8
- ManiacLachy
- Forum Guru
- Posts: 3266
- Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2014 2:35 pm
- Vehicle: NB SE
- Location: Brisbane
Re: Engine failure - swap compatibility?
You can run a VVT head without a functioning VVT actuator. So if you're pressed for time, don't worry about the VVT tuner right now. You won't get the gains from VVT, but you'll have a running working engine.
-
- Driver
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Tue Nov 22, 2016 5:46 pm
- Vehicle: NA8
- Location: Ripley, QLD
Re: Engine failure - swap compatibility?
Update for everyone and another quick question.
I didn't end up rushing and buying the BP-Z3. It's since sold and the car is as it was. 2 Days from now I'm putting an endoscope/borescope down the spark plug wells to see if I can get a confirmation of the damage. I'll put some lovely pictures up here should I find the time! If that all goes as expected then the engine will be out and pulled apart shortly after.
In the meantime; I've sourced a BP Engine from a local wrecker. Wants $550 for it. It's from a 1997 Mazda Astina and has ~163,000kms on it. The intention is to buy it, give it a quick pull apart and inspection. If it all looks clean I'll give it a major service and throw it in the car.
FUN FACT that I only realised today! The 'BP' engine is different from the 'BP-4W'.... I thought it was just the full engine code.... whoops!
Now, all of my research leads me to believe that regardless of what car the 'BP' engine was put into, the internals, block, head and EVERYTHING is the exact same. i.e. this engine from a 97 Astina will be the same as the engine from a 1994-1997 NA8. Am I correct or is there differences that I'm missing and need to watch out for?
I didn't end up rushing and buying the BP-Z3. It's since sold and the car is as it was. 2 Days from now I'm putting an endoscope/borescope down the spark plug wells to see if I can get a confirmation of the damage. I'll put some lovely pictures up here should I find the time! If that all goes as expected then the engine will be out and pulled apart shortly after.
In the meantime; I've sourced a BP Engine from a local wrecker. Wants $550 for it. It's from a 1997 Mazda Astina and has ~163,000kms on it. The intention is to buy it, give it a quick pull apart and inspection. If it all looks clean I'll give it a major service and throw it in the car.
FUN FACT that I only realised today! The 'BP' engine is different from the 'BP-4W'.... I thought it was just the full engine code.... whoops!
Now, all of my research leads me to believe that regardless of what car the 'BP' engine was put into, the internals, block, head and EVERYTHING is the exact same. i.e. this engine from a 97 Astina will be the same as the engine from a 1994-1997 NA8. Am I correct or is there differences that I'm missing and need to watch out for?
- hks_kansei
- Speed Racer
- Posts: 6154
- Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2009 10:43 am
- Vehicle: NB8A
- Location: Victoria
Re: Engine failure - swap compatibility?
Skifey wrote:Am I correct or is there differences that I'm missing and need to watch out for?
Pretty much.
From memory the main differences are just little things like compression ratio and cams may be a little different, but that's not an issue sicne you have a standalone ECU.
Other little bits like rocker cover having the PCV vents in different locations, the head will have the thermostat on the back of it rather than the front like an MX5.
Maybe a few other bits i'm forgetting.
Overall though, most of the stuff is easy to change by using parts from your existing motor (rocker cover, coolant neck)
1999 Mazda MX5 - 1989 Honda CT110 (for sale) - 1994 Mazda 626 wagon (GF's)
-
- Speed Racer
- Posts: 11852
- Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2005 11:35 pm
- Vehicle: Clubman
- Location: Melbourne
Re: Engine failure - swap compatibility?
Skifey wrote:sourced a BP Engine ... It's from a 1997 Mazda Astina
If you've not already seen them might be worth taking a look at the following:
-Making a FWD BP work in RWD configuration: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=127747
-Which FWD BP into '91?: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=351282
-Reverse of your project, but some useful info by PRR: BP RWD to FWD?: http://www.astinagt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13069
-Mazda 4 cylinder Engine History and Interchangability Guide: http://fixjunk.com/solomiata/solomiata/MX5Engine.html
- shirtz
- Fast Driver
- Posts: 220
- Joined: Thu Dec 08, 2016 10:24 am
- Vehicle: Clubman
- Location: canberra
Re: Engine failure - swap compatibility?
interested to see how this turns out. you ever pulled an engine out or torn one down before?
*subscribed*
*subscribed*
- StanTheMan
- Forum legend
- Posts: 6824
- Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2003 11:00 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Balgowlah
Re: Engine failure - swap compatibility?
shirtz wrote:interested to see how this turns out. you ever pulled an engine out or torn one down before?
*subscribed*
are you getting some pop corn?
Satans Ride called F33nix the resurrected NA6
- shirtz
- Fast Driver
- Posts: 220
- Joined: Thu Dec 08, 2016 10:24 am
- Vehicle: Clubman
- Location: canberra
Re: Engine failure - swap compatibility?
StanTheMan wrote:shirtz wrote:interested to see how this turns out. you ever pulled an engine out or torn one down before?
*subscribed*
are you getting some pop corn?
no E-popcorn here. maybe a carrot and some hummus.
-
- Speed Racer
- Posts: 3722
- Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2009 10:16 pm
- Vehicle: Non MX-5
- Location: Glasshouse Mountains, QLD
Re: Engine failure - swap compatibility?
The main difference is HLA vs SOB, and the water inlet/outlet locations. And the cams are different durations and overlap as the Astina was designed for more mid torque and less peak power.hks_kansei wrote:Skifey wrote:Am I correct or is there differences that I'm missing and need to watch out for?
Pretty much.
From memory the main differences are just little things like compression ratio and cams may be a little different, but that's not an issue sicne you have a standalone ECU.
Other little bits like rocker cover having the PCV vents in different locations, the head will have the thermostat on the back of it rather than the front like an MX5.
Maybe a few other bits i'm forgetting.
Overall though, most of the stuff is easy to change by using parts from your existing motor (rocker cover, coolant neck)
Astinas went solids mid 96, MX5s went solids for the NB.
PCV locations wont be an issue, as when changing over all the timing belt covers, the cam covers gets changed over as well.
But even the cams and lifters can be easily swapped over without too much issue. But with a MS, said changes can be overcome.
-
- Driver
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Tue Nov 22, 2016 5:46 pm
- Vehicle: NA8
- Location: Ripley, QLD
Re: Engine failure - swap compatibility?
Alrighty! Major update! I'll try to keep this interesting shirtz But before I start to answer your question... No... No I have never pulled an engine out or torn one down before. Until now!! HAZAHH!!
I decided I ought to take this opportunity to learn and so sourced an endoscope to have a look down the plug wells. That was a bit unproductive and didn't really tell me anything as I couldn't see anything other than carbon build up on top of the pistons. So I decided rather than blow $1k on an engine without even knowing for sure if mines cooked, I'll confirm it 110%. Many youtube tutorials, google guides, drinks and hours later... I removed the head. I finished it just ~30minutes ago in fact and what I found has me absolutely baffled.
None of the valves appear to be broken. I can't see any damage to the cylinder walls (haven't rotated the crank obviously - should I do that?). There's a lot of carbon build on the piston tops but otherwise... it looks completely normal. WHAT. THE. HELL. Engine overheats for a year and nothing I do fixes it. Engine stalls and fails and there's nothing wrong with it. Am I cursed or just daft honestly?
Also, that coolant and oil on top of cylinder 4 : I saw none of it with the endoscope before taking the head off so I'm guessing it's a spill from my sloppy handling during the head removal. My bad.
Lastly and just quickly; thanks for all the useful info and links from the posts previous to this one. Greatly appreciated guys!
I decided I ought to take this opportunity to learn and so sourced an endoscope to have a look down the plug wells. That was a bit unproductive and didn't really tell me anything as I couldn't see anything other than carbon build up on top of the pistons. So I decided rather than blow $1k on an engine without even knowing for sure if mines cooked, I'll confirm it 110%. Many youtube tutorials, google guides, drinks and hours later... I removed the head. I finished it just ~30minutes ago in fact and what I found has me absolutely baffled.
None of the valves appear to be broken. I can't see any damage to the cylinder walls (haven't rotated the crank obviously - should I do that?). There's a lot of carbon build on the piston tops but otherwise... it looks completely normal. WHAT. THE. HELL. Engine overheats for a year and nothing I do fixes it. Engine stalls and fails and there's nothing wrong with it. Am I cursed or just daft honestly?
Also, that coolant and oil on top of cylinder 4 : I saw none of it with the endoscope before taking the head off so I'm guessing it's a spill from my sloppy handling during the head removal. My bad.
Lastly and just quickly; thanks for all the useful info and links from the posts previous to this one. Greatly appreciated guys!
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Return to “MX5 Engines, Transmission & Final Drive”
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 46 guests