Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

[Red_Bullet]

Yep, the filter was disgusting, shame on you! Never buy a car from a "car enthusiast"

[bruce]

Must check my K&N (it's in the wheel arch covered with a garden pot!)

[ManiacLachy]

FWIW, that was about 18 months daily driving worth of gunk. It was filthy, but no debris found in side the filter, or inside the intake - so it works!

I've decided that it's getting cleaned every 10k while doing the oil change service from now on, which is twice a year for me at the current usage.

[ManiacLachy]

I replaced the old Uni-Filter with a K&N version on the weekend. The K&N has a little less of a rubber lip on it for the worm drive clamp, I thought this might be problematic because the lip sticks through the airbox, the clamp lives outside the box, the filter body inside, with the wall of the box separating them. My fear was that if the engine rocks hard it could pull the filter off the inlet tube. With the extra lip of the Uni-filter there was room for movement before the possibility of the clamp being pushed against the airbox wall, but on the K&N the clamp is hard up against the box. But so far we're holding strong!

The K&N gives louder intake noises And there's a definite improvement in turbo spool since I cleaned the Uni-filter, which persists with the K&N. Check your filters people, and prepare to clean them regardless of condition.

I've been running E85 almost constantly since getting the car back from Dann a year and a half ago, but recently (until this week), 98 has been considerably cheaper than E85, enough that the cost and mileage disadvantages outweighed the power advantage, and I swapped back to 98 about 3 weeks ago. With a clean air filter on 98 the car actually feels pretty fast. I wonder how good E85 would feel now? If 98 persists at it's current high price I might swap back, range anxiety be damned!

Since returning to 98 I've been having some tuning issues entering idle (even on E85 it wasn't great), the car would idle just fine once it got there, but coming into a stop would often lead to idle dipping down to 500rpm and sometimes stalling. I've been trying to correct it through tuning, but I might need to resort to a remote session with the man, NitroDann soon.

[SKYHI]

Since returning to 98 I've been having some tuning issues entering idle (even on E85 it wasn't great), the car would idle just fine once it got there, but coming into a stop would often lead to idle dipping down to 500rpm and sometimes stalling. I've been trying to correct it through tuning, but I might need to resort to a remote session with the man, NitroDann soon.

I've had the same issue ever since Dann tuned the car. It's ok when the car is cold, but gets worse as the car warms up. Quite often stalls when coming to a stop. I've finally gotten around to buying the correct cables and will be doing a remote session with Dann to try and rectify the issue soon.

[NitroDann]

You can up the base idle values when the motor. Not too hard.

Also, those unifilters clearly do work. Better on the outside than in!

Dann

[NitroDann]

When the motor is hot **

[ManiacLachy]

You can up the base idle values when the motor *is hot. Not too hard.

Also, those unifilters clearly do work. Better on the outside than in!

Dann

The unifilter very clearly did it's job, and if I hadn't cleaned it with the wrong solution, possibly causing it to breakdown, I would have stuck with it. I was amazed how much gunk was on it, but the inside was completely clean.

Do you mean the initial values table? Looking at the logs, the issue appears to be that the valve just doesn't open until at or very near idle. I see it sitting at 31%, RPM drops and drops, AFRs are pegged lean at 22 (whatever the value for no fuel detected, overrun cutoff is not enabled btw) then at 600RPM the idle valve jumps up to my initial values entry, about 33%, AFRs richen and RPM osculates and stabilises (usually, or stalls). I did notice that my Dashpot Adder was at 0%, bumping that up 2-3% helped somewhat.

Data logging in the car on a hot day sucks.

[Lokiel]

:
On Saturday I went looking in car yards, test drove a manual Mk6 Golf GTI, and immediately ruled out hatchbacks as a daily driver solution. The rear seats just won't fit an adult human being, and my dog will not fit easily either. Also, even a car lauded as a fun sporty car such as a Golf GTI is immensity boring compared to an MX-5. Worrying too much about a fun DD car is no longer a priority because nothing will be even half as fun as the MX-5, so why stress on it?
:

Found your "fun DD": https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/Renault-Megane-2011/SSE-AD-5982466/?Cr=59

2011 Renault Megane R.S. 250 Cup Trophee Manual

You'll need to leave the rear seats down permanently because you can't fit humans in the back seats anyway so there MIGHT be enough room in the back for your dog then ( or get a smaller dog ).

[bruce]

Anybody who puts their dog in a car doesn't like their car. The dog hair is impossible to remove (no vacuum or wonder gadget will budge it). A blanket, etc will not prevent it.

[ManiacLachy]

Found your "fun DD": https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/Renault-Megane-2011/SSE-AD-5982466/?Cr=59

2011 Renault Megane R.S. 250 Cup Trophee Manual

That's actually not too bad of an option, given the price and driveablilty, and not one I would have considered.

Anybody who puts their dog in a car doesn't like their car. The dog hair is impossible to remove (no vacuum or wonder gadget will budge it). A blanket, etc will not prevent it.

That's why we need a dedicated dog car, that I can also daily and not hate. He's ridden in my car a couple of times, I have to remove the passenger seat though, there's a few hairs there from him.

He rides in the Mrs's car most of the time and it is filled with dog hair. We had it detailed once and they did a pretty good job, got rid of 95% of the hair. He used a pumice stone to untrap the hair then vacuumed it. I haven't tried it myself yet. I plan to use the argument that if I have another car that the dog rides in, her's will stay clean! At least on the inside, I don't think she's ever run a hose on the outside of it.

[Daffy]

[A.Chen89]

Since returning to 98 I've been having some tuning issues entering idle (even on E85 it wasn't great), the car would idle just fine once it got there, but coming into a stop would often lead to idle dipping down to 500rpm and sometimes stalling. I've been trying to correct it through tuning, but I might need to resort to a remote session with the man, NitroDann soon.

I've had the same issue ever since Dann tuned the car. It's ok when the car is cold, but gets worse as the car warms up. Quite often stalls when coming to a stop. I've finally gotten around to buying the correct cables and will be doing a remote session with Dann to try and rectify the issue soon.

The IAC valve can be pretty finicky; with mine I found that it was pretty non-linear around the spot where it needed to be to idle at a nice RPM.
e.g -1 or -2 % duty cycle and there wouldn't be enough air

I ended up setting my minimum base idle output % at around ~56%, and the minimum output at the same value else the idle would drop significantly.

The overshoot / dipping / hunting would be due to the PID values for your closed loop idle. You might need to dick around with it and try different values. High integral/high prop could be the reason why its dipping when coming to a stop; the output of the closed loop control wants the valve to close too much (causing your stall) before it shoots back the other way.

You could also just turn off closed loop idle control and aim for a fixed idle % for your IAC; it'll just mean your car might idle a bit higher.

[Red_Bullet]

I don't used closed loop idle control, don't have the need. I like to keep things simple. I don't have air con.

Spark set to 15 deg, in range of 700-1200 RPM and MAP 20-35. ie. stick 15 deg in bottom left of timing table.
AFR target 14.5 in this same range of 700-1200 RPM

IAC set to zero above 60 deg C.

In the MS manual it makes a strong point of getting the idle as best as it can be BEFORE applying closed loop control. Closed loop control looks complex, I looked at it recently and said to myself, STUFF THAT Sh!t. Problem solved!

Next thing you'll all be using x-tau stick to walls AE!! STUFF THAT Sh!t too!

[ManiacLachy]

I found why my idle would some times crash real low, there was no Dashpot Adder. So, unless I entered idle slowly, the IAC would remain nearly shut, and not react fast enough. With ~3.1% Dashpot it does comes to an idle quite nicely, a little high at first then settles in.

I'll still take another look at my PID, I think it could be massaged slightly, but right now the car is doing very nicely. I also went on a nice long VEAL (auto-tune) session last weekend, and that improved a few other areas as well. The learning curve on the tuning side is steep, but I feel I've got the knowledge now to tackle most of it (but I'll leave the timing map to professionals)

As is often the case, I just need to make time to address the issues, be they mechanical or tuning. Sometimes finding that time can be difficult with life, family, work and other commitments, but it always worth it.