apsilon's MX5

apsilon · Postby **apsilon** » Sun Nov 25, 2018 6:18 am

Haven't measured it. The Ohlins supposedly only lower the car a max of 20mm though. I haven't tried setting ride height yet either, I just assembled them according to the manual which basically sets them at the lowest so the only way to go is to raise the car.

No bind that I could detect, everything appears to move freely.

ManiacLachy · Postby **ManiacLachy** » Sun Nov 25, 2018 5:04 pm

The car is looking really clean, very nice work. That's a shame IL Motorsport weren't more helpful. I don't think you'll be any worse off with a couple of OEM bushes, a mixed full set is better than one missing.

The NA and NB had slightly different geometry with the front spindles and need slightly different ball joints. Using some washers to space it is exactly what Supermiata.com is doing with their new FUCA BJs, so you're on the right track there.

Magpie, there where will be some bind, they're rubber bushes and bind is part of their design. Apsilon, the with rubber bushings the centre pin is held tight and doesn't rotate, the rubber is bound to the pin and will twist up when load is put on them, effectively adding some spring rate, all rubber bushings do this. This is why you need to jack up the control arm so that it's at ride height before you torque the bolts down, that way the ride height has the bushings sitting neutral.

I'm thinking of going back to rubber, and the IL's are what I'm looking at, the poly life is a little rough for daily. Great for weekends and fun blasts, but for commuting I think I'd be more comfortable with rubber.

apsilon · Postby **apsilon** » Sun Nov 25, 2018 5:54 pm

Thanks, I'm fairly happy with everything so far.

These ball joints were supposed to be the for the NA, there is a different part number for the NB. They fit perfectly, just the hole for the split pin doesn't seem to be in the right spot. I'll do a side by side comparison when I get a chance.

Yes they're rubber, stiffer than OEM by 40% (I think that's what IL claim) so I think they're going to be ideal for weekender road car. I did jack the arms up before torquing everything. Hopefully I've got everything right as I haven't done most of this before.

Still have a few things on the to do list:
- Brakes (braided lines, upgraded pads and slotted rotors)
- Convert to manual steering (prefer the feel plus less weight)
- LSD (still need to find one)
- Swap out the head unit for an Android car play double DIN so I have nav etc

That's about it. All stock parts have been retained so it can be returned to stock if I decide to. Other than that, just need to find time to enjoy it.

ManiacLachy · Postby **ManiacLachy** » Mon Nov 26, 2018 8:19 am

I think you're doing it all really well, to an OEM+ standard, the car should be fantastic to drive when you finish.

For Android Auto/Apple Car Play, I've been looking at the Sony XAV-AX5000, it's really clean no flashy colours. It's a little light on features compared to say the Kenwoods, but it's cheaper and presents much nicer. However, it's almost a year old now so the next iteration should be just about to come out.
https://www.sony.com.au/electronics/in-car-receivers-players/xav-ax5000
edit: I initially linked the AX1000, the AX5000 was the one in my mind.

apsilon · Postby **apsilon** » Mon Nov 26, 2018 8:33 am

I've already bought a Kenwood DMX8018S, some Focal speakers and all the harness adaptors to ensure I don't have to cut/splice any of the OEM wiring. The Kenwood was a bit of an impulse buy as I got a really good deal on it. Has a fair few features I don't need but it's a fairly clean looking unit without being garish.

I think I've got everything I need to get to where I want it except the LSD. Oh and maybe the rollbar. Still tossing that around. Makes a lot of sense from a safety POV but it will mean irreversible changes to the interior trim and the tan pieces are hard to find and when they do pop up sell instantly.

apsilon · Postby **apsilon** » Mon Dec 10, 2018 8:32 am

Everything back together and back on it's wheels for the first time in almost 4 months. Gave it a quick wash (handbrake now works after being adjusted so I can park on the lawn to wash) and took it around the block to check for any unusual rattles etc. NVH is definitely higher, I think mostly due to the engine mounts, but the car feels tighter, probably mostly due to the bushes. It'll likely settle more yet but it's definitely not too low on the coilovers and seems comfortable enough but you can only tell so much from a quick lap. Tyres are definitely stickier as judged by the number of rocks I could hear being picked up and the bronze wheels look good IMO. Exhaust isn't too loud either. Wheel alignment and pink slip this week so I can renew the rego. Rest of the work will need to wait until after Xmas.

ManiacLachy · Postby **ManiacLachy** » Mon Dec 10, 2018 8:47 am

Congratulations, bet it felt good after all your hard work! I think the NVH will settle some after a little while, and you'll quickly adapt to the "new normal".

apsilon · Postby **apsilon** » Mon Dec 10, 2018 8:52 am

Was good to have it back though I would've liked to have had everything complete but there were some unexpected hold ups and life and work often gets in the way of our plans.

NVH likely will settle as you say as things break in but it's not something that bothers me. It's not a daily, just a fun weekender and hopefully occasional track day car. I just hope I didn't miss anything as rego is due on the 20th so I've cut it close.

bruce · Postby **bruce** » Mon Dec 10, 2018 1:16 pm

You will get used to the new NVH and it will become the norm.

apsilon · Postby **apsilon** » Wed Dec 12, 2018 9:27 am

Registered for another year

Had an alignment done at the same time as the pink slip though I'm not sure of how accurate it is. They were able to get everything I wanted except the front negative camber, could only get -1deg each side. Ended up front about 4.5deg caster, -1deg camber 0 toe, rear -1.5deg camber (should've been less but i didn't have time to wait for them to try it again) and 1.5mm total toe in.

The thing is, just looking at it sitting, the front looks like it has a fair bit more negative camber than the rear. Having had it all apart and having spent a fair bit of time looking at it all nothing appears bent, everything lines up easily so I don't know why the max camber they claim they can get is only -1deg so I'm leaning more towards their error or equipment not correctly calibrated.

I'd like to take it to a trusted place to have an alignment done and the coilovers adjusted but not sure who in Sydney, preferably western Sydney to use these days. At least it's got hopefully some consistent numbers after having it aligned given I didn't even attempt to eyeball it putting everything back in.

That'll do me until after the new year now. Try and get back to resting my arm and hoping it heals up as it's annoying me having to hold back on things.

apsilon · Postby **apsilon** » Wed Mar 06, 2019 4:38 pm

It's been a quiet couple of months. Too hot to work outside (and my house AC died just after new years so couldn't retreat into the cool for breaks) and my physio didn't want me on the tools anyway. Arm is doing much better and I've been cleared to start doing light stuff so I'll be back into things soon.

Had the windows tinted today. Not really a fan of tinted windows on covertibles, just a personal preference. Don't like the visuals of it when the top is down but windows are up (which isn't often and I can't see it from within the car anyway). Anyway, my desire to provide more UV protection for the interior over came my preference to keep the glass clear.

bliu6757 · Postby **bliu6757** » Thu Mar 07, 2019 9:24 am

apsilon wrote:Registered for another year

Had an alignment done at the same time as the pink slip though I'm not sure of how accurate it is. They were able to get everything I wanted except the front negative camber, could only get -1deg each side. Ended up front about 4.5deg caster, -1deg camber 0 toe, rear -1.5deg camber (should've been less but i didn't have time to wait for them to try it again) and 1.5mm total toe in.

The thing is, just looking at it sitting, the front looks like it has a fair bit more negative camber than the rear. Having had it all apart and having spent a fair bit of time looking at it all nothing appears bent, everything lines up easily so I don't know why the max camber they claim they can get is only -1deg so I'm leaning more towards their error or equipment not correctly calibrated.

I'd like to take it to a trusted place to have an alignment done and the coilovers adjusted but not sure who in Sydney, preferably western Sydney to use these days. At least it's got hopefully some consistent numbers after having it aligned given I didn't even attempt to eyeball it putting everything back in.

That'll do me until after the new year now. Try and get back to resting my arm and hoping it heals up as it's annoying me having to hold back on things.

Getting my alignment done next week at ‘road and race’ in Rydalmere. Only heard good things from there. I’ll let you know how it goes as I’ll be going up to Luddenham the following day.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

kiezon · Postby **kiezon** » Thu Mar 07, 2019 11:02 pm

May I ask how you're finding the Ohlins? Comfort and performance wise?

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

apsilon · Postby **apsilon** » Fri Mar 08, 2019 6:05 am

I haven't really dríven it that much to give anything other than an initial impression which is they're firm but well damped and comfortable. Performance wise it's hard to say as I haven't really pushed it. The car feels really good but given I did all the bushings and new wheels and tyres at the same time as the Ohlins it's hard to say how much each is contributing but I'm very happy with the end result.

Wolfgang · Postby **Wolfgang** » Fri Mar 08, 2019 8:15 pm

apsilon wrote:Had the windows tinted today. Not really a fan of tinted windows on covertibles, just a personal preference. Don't like the visuals of it when the top is down but windows are up (which isn't often and I can't see it from within the car anyway). Anyway, my desire to provide more UV protection for the interior over came my preference to keep the glass clear.

You know you can get clear tint that has as much UV protection as the dark tint. It's mostly used for JDM cars that have factory privacy tint on the rear side windows.