NB8A Left Indicator stays on when changing lanes

aSimpleLife · Postby **aSimpleLife** » Sun Feb 24, 2019 3:25 pm

It is only staying on when I use the left indicator to change lanes. When I do this I hold the stalk while indicating and then manually release it when done. However the left indicator continues most times. I move the lever again and it will stop. Although I sometimes have to move the lever a couple of times. Also sometimes the sound seems to continue without the visual warning. Which I originally thought was the keys tapping on the steering column. And maybe I am just imagining it?
Does not happen when changing lanes on the right. And never happens on left or right when turning corners where the indicator turns itself off. Only when I manually turn it off when changing lanes on the left.

Have had the car 8 years and this problem has only started in last month.
I have not been able to find a an NB8A thread about this issue. This one sounds similar but it was an NA;
http://www.mazdamenders.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2181
Like with the NA I assume something in the indicator/wiper/light switch assembly is worn? Maybe I have worn it by the way I use it when changing lanes?
I have not tried to remove the steering wheel yet.
I assume I will need to find a new assembly first. There doesn't seem to be any low cost ones around. Was hoping it might just be a part that I could replace. Like a spring, ball bearing or plastic piece. But not sure if I will be able to diagnose that myself.

Mr Morlock · Postby **Mr Morlock** » Sun Feb 24, 2019 6:32 pm

I do recall a thread on this at one stage. I guess its the combination switch for T/S, They- Mazda- are very unlikely to service any components. It would be nice to see a schematic of the switch and that is probably available in a manual - someone may be able to give you a link. It may be repairable or then it comes down to a one out of a used vehicle. At least you can use your car for the time being.

KevGoat · Postby **KevGoat** » Sun Feb 24, 2019 7:50 pm

I had similar in my NB8A where the indicator arm would flick back to it's neutral position after a turn but the indicator would continue. I managed to fix mine with some electrical spray. I first tried by just taking the steering column covers off and spraying the switch while in place but didn't work (or maybe just needed longer to take affect) so took the switch out completely and sprayed everything and worked the lever back/forth quite a bit while spraying more. Fitted back in and fixed it - but then traded the car a couple weeks later so don't know how long it worked but hadn't faltered in the mean time.

aSimpleLife · Postby **aSimpleLife** » Sun Feb 24, 2019 9:40 pm

Thankyou for the assistance.
I see now it is called the "combination switch". From 1997 to 2001? So it must be only for the NB8A?
The cheapest one I can see online is $170 second hand and looks well worn.
I'll get a price from Mazda just in case...but I expect to be shocked.
Will definitely be pulling the switch out trying the electrical contact spray first. Been reading the forums about the NA high beam issue and it seems I need to be careful not to use too much contact spray.

Edit - the only combination switch breakdown I can find is this for 1999-2005 - hopefully it is better than nothing.

aSimpleLife · Postby **aSimpleLife** » Mon Feb 25, 2019 9:21 am

I also meant to mention that it never occurred to me this could be an electrical contact issue that might be resolved by contact spray. It was locked in my mind that a mechanical part, probably plastic, must have worn. Although the car hasn't been used much in it's 21 years.
It should have rung a bell because I had a problem with the locking mechanism on my much younger vw van and that was miraculously fixed with a large dose of electrical contact spray. My first attempt didn't get a result like mentioned above. But a second longer spray did the job and that was 2 years ago.

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Mon Feb 25, 2019 10:37 am

Have you considered just changing the indicator relay and seeing if that fixes it?

Years ago the relay on mine got sticky, I cant remember if the indicators stayed on after cancellation or if they had a delay before starting though.

Regardless, the NB just uses a normal Bosch relay which will cost all of $5, rather than the silly proprietary thing the NA used.

Only difference I found on mine was that the OEM one had a slot on top to hold the relay to a bracket, where the generic Narva one didnt.
in saying that, I didnt look too hard at the relays in the shop, so I may have missed one with the slots.

Mr Morlock · Postby **Mr Morlock** » Mon Feb 25, 2019 2:01 pm

You would be very surprised how many components are used in combination switches. They are really put together like watches and have tiny components that also have to be very rugged for the hard repetitive work that a t/s switch does on a day to day basis.

aSimpleLife · Postby **aSimpleLife** » Mon Feb 25, 2019 9:58 pm

Mr Morlock wrote:You would be very surprised how many components are used in combination switches...

If that was a warning to me about the risks of trying to disassemble the switch...then yes I am very cautious about that

Only today, while pulling off the door trim on the falcon wagon, the mirror adjuster switch popped open, and out fell a number of small springs, ball bearings, an unidentified metal bit, and the now broken plastic tabs...all onto the gravel driveway...never found them all...much less tried to work out how to put them back together

Fortunately I have a couple of spares. But the lesson has been (re)learned.

aSimpleLife · Postby **aSimpleLife** » Mon Feb 25, 2019 10:38 pm

hks_kansei wrote:Have you considered just changing the indicator relay and seeing if that fixes it? the NB just uses a normal Bosch relay which will cost all of $5...Only difference I found on mine was that the OEM one had a slot on top to hold the relay to a bracket, where the generic Narva one didnt.
in saying that, I didnt look too hard at the relays in the shop, so I may have missed one with the slots.

No I hadn't thought of that either, thankyou.
So I just go down the local auto spares place, and buy the cheapest Narva Relay Thermal Flasher 12V unit with the plugs to match the current one?
Assuming they won't be able to tell me which one I need. There are no specs in the workshop manual. Assume that means there doesn't need to be?
And judging by some forum posts about the difficulty of getting the existing one off it's bracket, I doubt I'll find one with the required slot.

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Tue Feb 26, 2019 9:46 am

Yeah, I just took my old one in and matched it with the ones on the shelf.

So long as the new one is rated to the same or higher amps as the current one it should be fine.

as far as the mounting, from memory mine may have had a mount slot, but in the wrong place to fit the OEM bracket.
I just bent up some scrap metal to hold it in place, and cable tied it to the factory bracket.

works fine, just that the ticking isn't as loud since it's not able to reverberate through the bracket anymore.
It's been like that for about 7 years now, give or take.

aSimpleLife · Postby **aSimpleLife** » Sun Dec 06, 2020 8:10 pm

Even though it took me a year to get round to it

Thought I better report back my successful resolution.
Last year a very helpful forum member offered me their spare at a very reasonable price.
Have just replaced mine with that and the problem is resolved.
Thankyou again to the forum and that member for your help.