Wrecker/gumtree hunting for 1.8 longblock. Best options?

[datfreak]

I'm wanting to get a 1.8 into my na6, I already have a na8 engine that needs rebuilding so I already have inlet/exhaust manifolds and sump.
Original plan was to rebuild the current na8 engine as it has a race head(which will be for sale soon), but i'm $ prohibited to do the build I want.
I've rung local wreckers and can get a '97 ford laser engine for about $550.

Is there any issue with different fwd heads with the na8 manifolds?
I'm looking for:
Ford laser up to 1997
Mazda 323 up to 1997
Kia mentor/Sephia up to 1997

Any others I should be looking for, or particular engine that has better specs? ATM I'm looking for the newest/lowest km one.

Any tips/thoughts much appreciated.

[hks_kansei]

My understanding is that all the BP blocks/heads are interchangeable. (on the block anyway)

The main difference in the BP twin cam heads was that there were 2 different tpyes of ports for the intake manifolds, the early NA8 style "low port"
and the later NB style "high port"

Exhaust side didnt change.

I dont think the high port head was used on the laser/323, but worth checking anyway (look for BP4W or BPZE stamped on the back)



Anyway, as far as blocks go, the only real difference there is compression ratio, but i'm pretty sure the NA8 was near the low end of the CR anyway.



If you were in Melb i'd swap you a BP block for a 6 pack of beer.
I originally grabbed it to bore it out, but i wont be going down that road now.
it's just a bare block though, not a single thing attached to it, or in it.

[project.r.racing]

mid 96 to all of 97 head will have solid lifters.

the fwd drive heads have a copper welsh plug for the mx5 for water inlet (you'll need to research how to remove this).

the fwd blocks from about 96ish don't have the block inturnal pipework for the water and oil turbo feeds (if that is an issue).

the fwd head has a outlet for a heater hose that can be blocked off with a cap and a screw clamp.

the water pumps, timing gear covers, oil pan and cam cover are different.

[93_Clubman]

Mazda 4 cylinder engine history & interchangability guide by Randy Stocker: http://fixjunk.com/solomiata/solomiata/MX5Engine.html

[datfreak]

Thanks for the info and the offer for your spare block hks_kansei.
I'll suss out the head at the wreckers to make sure the na8 inlet manifold will fit.

I'm hoping to get something cheap and cheerful locally, give it a timing belt/f and r seal service while out of the car.

[hks_kansei]

Good idea re: service etc.

Just curious, how bad is the NA8 engine you have?

if it's just some oil consumption a set of piston rings will likely have it good to go for years, and can be done relatively easily with only a couple of special tools (that you can probably borrow)

for just a set of rings, the only specialist tools I can think of are:

- Piston ring compressor
- Torque Wrench
- Dingleberry hone (not actually needed, but will clean out the bores a little, also use it sparingly, too much and you bore it out and the rings will never seal)

The rest is basic hand tools, that I assume you have since you're swapping the engine at home.




Otherwise, the wrecker option is a good one.
Just make sure to not overtighten stuff with the engine out of the car, since if/when you need to change them in future you'll never get them undone in the engine bay (mainly, oil filter, starter motor, etc)

[project.r.racing]

I'll suss out the head at the wreckers to make sure the na8 inlet manifold will fit.

It will fit as it is the exact same head.

[bruce]

Dingleberry?!

[hks_kansei]

Dingleberry?!

Not as good as a proper machine shop using a proper hone.

But far safer for the home user, since it's a little more forgiving about not being 100% parallel to the bore walls.

Still need to use it with care though, go too fast, or go too much, and instead of just lightly cleaning up the bore walls you end up boring them out and meaning the rings wont ever seat.

[bruce]

I've learnt something new today.