Lokiel's "Gina" (2004 Titanium SE)

[greenMachine]

- see https://www.full-race.com/store/borg-warner-efr/efr-components/borgwarner-efr-compressor-cover-w-90-outlet/

Add up all the angle changes, and it will be a lot more than 135* ... maybe 2x 90* is better than 135*+45*, but I would need some convincing , especially as that 90* pictured looks pretty tight. It you absolutely need it there, ok, but if not I am guessing that your proposed setup is more than adequate.

[Lokiel]

Trimmed the shelf a little more tonight, now has 5mm clearance to the downpipe (should be enough):

My trusty Dremel decided to self destruct internally as I was almost finished, something let go inside and it stopped spinning as it rattled to a stop, no smoke or smell at all - I can only guess that I was pushing the bit too hard into the shelf edge.

RIP trusty Dremel you've served me well over the last 16 years

I finished the remaining shaping/finishing with files.

I'll clean it up tomorrow and paint the edge - Dupli-Color's DSMZ17 is supposed to be Mazda's Titanium Grey so I'll give that a go.

The air filter's 2.5"-3" silcone hose reducer 45* elbow arrived today so I cut it to size and fitted it:


There's a short 3" aluminium pipe joining the filter to the elbow which is completely encased by the silicone hose and air filter..
I'll make a bracket connecting the 3" elbow's end clamp (not in the pictures above) to the shelf so that the filter has more vertical stabilisation.
The Cold Air Box will have to wait until the A/C lines are sorted out but it'll be much smaller than the original one I made.

[beavis]

Thank you for sharing your progress. This is great fun to follow.

[greenMachine]

Good job! I'd check that you have enough clearance for the engine rocking laterally, it could still be a little tight there. Sorry

[Roadrunner]

That's a shame the Garage Vary hood doesn't fit anymore. Love that bonnet. Will you just run a standard bonnet with SM louvers instead, or do you have something more elaborate up your sleeve? Blits BodyKits in QLD do custom ADR approved vented bonnets. You could get them to make a GV style vented bonnet but with more clearance where you need it. I enquired a year or two ago and they said $1000 each if they get 5 paid orders.
$1000 is not bad for an ADR approved vented bonnet if a group of us go in nudge nudge wink wink

That turbo looks great. But I agree, the different compressor cover will look way better than the 135* elbow

[Lokiel]

I haven't actually tried fitting the Garage Vary hood yet, too many other things I need to do but the "eyeball test" says "NO - it wont fit"!.

If it does fit without needing cutting to accommodate the wastegate actuator I'd be extremely surprised - for now, the hood lies in comfort on my spare double bed.

greenMachine: I rocked the engine as hard as I dared with the car on stands (and me standing on the car ramp which was under the passenger-side wheel in case the stand collapsed) and there's not much forward-reverse movement, there's more left-right movement and when the engine's running, left-right movement is "the norm" due to the rotation of the crankshaft. Painting the cut shelf edge and looking at the ceramic-coated downpipe will make it very easy to spot if this is a problem.

beavis: Thanks for the support. I'm actually annoyed that no-one seems to have documented the cutting of the rear shelf to accomodate the TSE downpipe. there's no mention of it anywhere, so thought I'd show what's needed. Also, no-one seems to have fitted the TSE kit to a RHD car so this might help others decide if they want to try it and just what's involved/needed. I've ended up buying a lot of hoses, pipes and fittings to figure out just what's needed and this may save people time and money. My lower radiator hose re-route mod is another thing I haven't seen much of and should be adopted on RHD cars because it gets the hose out of the way of the hot-side intercooler plumbing if it's routed below the engine shelf.

I'd originally planned to have someone do all this work because there's lot of it and things I wanted done in a specific way (eg. the lower radiator hose routing). This was going to be a huge labour cost so I was waiting to accrue enough to cover it which took forever. ManiacLachy was the one who convinced me to do it myself and I'm glad I did because I'm getting the installation I want with no "easy-out" compromises despite the fact that it's required way more modding than I anticipated (eg. a/c lines and cannister, ABS line, water-pipe angle change, dipstick re-position).

[Lokiel]

:
Blits BodyKits in QLD do custom ADR approved vented bonnets. You could get them to make a GV style vented bonnet but with more clearance where you need it. I enquired a year or two ago and they said $1000 each if they get 5 paid orders.
$1000 is not bad for an ADR approved vented bonnet if a group of us go in nudge nudge wink wink
:

If I can't get the bonnet to fit, I'd be in on this, I definitely think we could get at least 5 buyers and use mine as the template.

[ManiacLachy]

If he can get his bonnet to fit, I'd be interested in this

Actually, even if he can't I would be interested. GV style vented bonnet + EFR = FTW.

And ~$1k that's cheaper than getting a new GV from the source!

[Roadrunner]

If he can get his bonnet to fit, I'd be interested in this

Actually, even if he can't I would be interested. GV style vented bonnet + EFR = FTW.

And ~$1k that's cheaper than getting a new GV from the source!

Cheaper and without the fitment issues.
All they need is a perfect original factory bonnet for a week to make a mould of, then they do their thing. I'm definitely interested in a subtle but effective vented hood for the SE

[ManiacLachy]

Could even remedy the only issue I have with the GV bonnet, I think the vent needs to move a little further forward. It looks to me like it currently sits at the front of the valve cover, it needs to be just behind the rad IMO (science could prove me wrong, but I don't think GV did flow tests in their design)

[bruce]

I'm sure a little judicious shaving of the inderside of the GV bonnet will make everything clear his new turbo setup. You could go Auto Salon and have the turbo poking thru the bonnet!

[Daffy]

I can’t wait till we can roll out the red carpet for Gina’s grand entrance! She’ll be so worth the wait

[Lokiel]

This weekend's jobs were to modify the water heater pipe since the hose is too close to the downpipe, shorten the 4-AN oil line so that it could route to the turbo on the engine side vs the opposite side (cleans up that side nicely) and re-mount the A/C Receiver/Drier cannister so that I can get an A/C guy to to re-route the plumbing.

The TSE instructions indicate that the water heater hose pipe may need to be shortened and bent to give it enough clearance for the downpipe.
Initially I just cut the pipe to the 2nd beading, trimmed the hose accordingly and test-fitted it.




It fit well without needing any bending so I cleaned the end up and trimmed the shelf a little more (greenMachine's comment made me paranoid) and re-painted the edge:

* SHOULD be plenty of clearance for the downpipe now!
* There's a small heat sleeve over the heater hose that NitroDann installed I suspect when he did the initial install which I'll replace with a longer one.

I shortened the 4-AN oil line and used an OEM hose separator clip from "the other" water heater hose to the oil hose to ensure that the hose does not move and rub anything:

Routing the oil line on the engine side frees up space on the other side of the turbo for the new A/C lines.

I originally planned to re-mount the A/C Receiver/Drier cannister in the rear passenger corner of the engine bay but it's awkward to fit in there so the only other obvious place was near the air filter.
I modified the OEM bracket and mounted it using an OEM M6 point on the frame that has an M6 nut welded on it:



* I'm hoping I can unfurl the OEM wiring so that the plug can reach the cannister's 2-wire socket (the brown connectors in the photo above), if not I'll need to lengthen the wiring.

I also fitted the rear section of the TSE downpipe.
Dann held his downpipe using a simple DIY bracket mounted to the gearbox and a 3" exhaust U-bolt.
Unfortunately I can't use this same bracket because it's right where the two TSE sections join, they're slightly wider than 3" and require a clamp to hold them together.
For now it's just supported by a jack so I need to see what others have done to support the downpipe.

[ManiacLachy]

So many small gotchas that I think are mostly due to our cars being RHD and the kit designed on LHD. I haven't heard of another RHD TSE install, I'm glad you're documenting it all, it will be a good resource one day.

It looks like a lot of work, but you'd be saving a ton in labour costs and you'll know everything has been done to your high standards, great work!

[KevGoat]

BEGi don't supply a bracket with their downpipe and just say to remove the original, nothing about replacing it. Opinions appeared mixed on Miata.net whether it's necessary. I preferred erring on the safe side and made my own. I didn't receive any bracket with Dann's exhaust when I fitted that a few months ago and I haven't fitted one yet, but had intended to make a new one to suit.

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