Venturing down the slippery slope - SKYHI Motorsports SE

[SKYHI]

Maybe move bonnet vents to stage one. They help a heap with cooling. I wish I was allowed to use them in 2f.
What session are you doing on Saturday? I'll be there too

I would like to fit them as soon as possible, but unsure if this mod will bump me out of Street Class. Will need to check with the Time Attack administrators.

Doing the morning session this time around. Will see you there.

[SKYHI]

Pretty comprehensive list.

I agree with plohl, move vents up to stage 1, they'll be all sorts of help to your cooling.

But I'd move the re-route to stage 2, not much point doing it in our car's (NB8Bs/SEs) unless you change the head gasket at the same time. It won't hurt, but it won't really help either, so I'd leave it until the engine build.

Along with the ELBJs you'll need to clearance your FUCAs, NB8Bs got an added gusset which reduces the size of the pocket, and the ELBJs will change the geometry and the coilovers can rub on the FUCA. You just need to grind away at the gusset to gain back precious millimetres. Do it all at the same time as the bushing swap.

No 10., where are the inconel studs going?

No 14., the guys at SuperMiata think the SE's rear sway bar (14mm) is perfect and advocate changing only the front to the 1.125" Racing Beat bar.

I'm going to do my best to remember to come out this Saturday! I assume it's Lakeside?

Trying to stay in Street Class for now, so need to check if modifying the bonnet to install the vents would be allowed.

I've read so many threads about reroutes, and tried to work through the various combinations of motor types and head gaskets etc, but still confused
As you sadi, I got to the conclusion that it wouldn't hurt, and will definitely be something I do at some stage, so made sense to me to tackle it as the same time as I do a radiator swap. Still not sure whether I get a local radiator or something like the SuperMiata one.

I've also read about the ELBJs and some issues with the NB FUCA. Doesn't seem to be conclusive evidence that there will always be a rubbing issue, but
better off grinding out the piece for piece of mind anyway.

Inconel studs should be in Stage 2 with the new turbo and manifold.

Undecided on the rear sway bar at this stage. 14mm will be sufficient, just a matter of whether it's worth spending for an adjustable one to give the flexibility in tuning the car balance.

Yep, doing the Lakeside series, so back to see if we can get another win in the Street Class. Doing the morning session this time around, so we'll be there between about 8am and 12.30pm.

[rascal]

I've read so many threads about reroutes, and tried to work through the various combinations of motor types and head gaskets etc, but still confused

Its actually easy for NBs. If you are lifting the head anyway, then use the NB8A (BP4W) gasket for both (BP4W(8A) or BP6D(8B). If you weren't planning to take head off, then I wouldnt bother as don't think it really matters that much to leave a NB8B gasket in a NB8B head with a reroute.

I've also read about the ELBJs and some issues with the NB FUCA. Doesn't seem to be conclusive evidence that there will always be a rubbing issue, but better off grinding out the piece for piece of mind anyway.

Pretty sure its only the NB8B arms that have the issue with rubbing ELBJs. NB8As arms are ok..

[Roadrunner]

The SE headgasket works quite well. I measure water temps at front and rear of head and the rear is always cooler than the front by several degrees on the track and very even on the street. I reckon if you put a reroute on an SE without changing the gasket, you’ll end up cooking cylinder 1 like non rerouted NA’s cook cylinder 4, but maybe not as dramatic.

[greenMachine]

I've also read about the ELBJs and some issues with the NB FUCA. Doesn't seem to be conclusive evidence that there will always be a rubbing issue, but better off grinding out the piece for piece of mind anyway.

Pretty sure its only the NB8B arms that have the issue with rubbing ELBJs. NB8As arms are ok..

I have just been out with a couple of files and there is now a few mm of additional clearance on my replacement (re-bushed) arms. Yes, it is the additional strengthening welded on at that location that causes the problem. However it seems a pretty rare occurrence, there may be other variables at play such as chassis manufacturing tolerances/variations, very low ride height, etc. However, I would rather spend a bit of time and energy than put them on and find a problem.

[NitroDann]

Reroute is better than no reroute no matter what.

NB gasket works better than NA gasket without reroute.

Best combo is NA gasket and Reroute.

Dann

[StuwieP]

https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=350182

Post #6 shows the difference between early and late NB head gaskets, for those wondering, extracted below.



I've done the early gasket on my SE motor + re-route. I think this is the best solution (?) though I'm yet to actually test it myself.

[SKYHI]

Bonnet vents for cooling have just been approved my Time Attack class, so they have moved a lot further up the list

Got my eyes on these Singular Motorsport ones:

https://www.singularmotorsports.com/pro ... d-louvers/

[SKYHI]

So I managed to tick off Item number 1 on the "to do" list just before our last Time Attack event, thanks to my partner organising a set through Beavis for my birthday. No photos, because I was short on time, and I'm sure you've all seen braided brake lines before

Also had an exhaust leak looked at, which was diagnosed as a failing gasket at the dump pipe by a local workshop.

Unfortunately the noise reappeared on the way to the track, but given that it wasn't too bad, and I needed the win to stay in contention for the Championship, I cautiously put down a few hot laps to see if it would be enough. I called it quits at the end of my 4th session, with a best of 62.55. Not a PB this time around due to the hotter temperatures, but enough to take out the class win by less than a tenth of a second. So now it all comes down to the last round on the 24th of November, where I'll need to take a third win to beat Adam in his Megane RS265.

Was great to see ManiacLachy again out at the track too.

[SKYHI]

With the next round approaching quickly, I decided to take the car to the guys at Automotive Plus to have my new engine noise looked at It was a long trek over from the Southside of town, but I wanted someone who knew exactly what they were doing after my last experience. Thankfully it turned out to fairly minor, with a couple of loose turbo manifold bolts. Had I known it was that simple, I probably could have just fixed myself

Won't have any time or money to get any of the other "to do" items from the list done before the next event, so it'll just be a routine check over before heading out. Plan is to get through this event, and then give it a good going over during the 'off season'. Hopefully this will include the next four items on the list.

2. Qstarz BT-Q818Xt Bluetooth GPS receiver
3. Scosche car mount
4. MS3 cable
5. Singular Motorsport Bonnet Vents

[bruce]

Regards the 'singular' vents;
Bear2230 was going to offer copies.
I also found these similar ones (I think a bit cheaper);
http://vraptorspeedworks.com/mazda-miat ... ouvers-99/
(they've got a lot to choose from).

[ManiacLachy]

Spotto'd on Friday! I was picking up from my 190k service.



Loose exhaust manifold is common with the SEs, keep an eye on it because the manifold can warm when it's loose. If you see some tell-tale carbon build up on the had you know you have a leak. Usually its the bolts towards the back of the head.

[SKYHI]

Regards the 'singular' vents;
Bear2230 was going to offer copies.
I also found these similar ones (I think a bit cheaper);
http://vraptorspeedworks.com/mazda-miat ... ouvers-99/
(they've got a lot to choose from).

Looks like they are a little different to the SM ones, as they don't have the middle louvre or the gurney flap on the front edge, but a fair bit cheaper

[SKYHI]

Loose exhaust manifold is common with the SEs, keep an eye on it because the manifold can warm when it's loose. If you see some tell-tale carbon build up on the had you know you have a leak. Usually its the bolts towards the back of the head.

Yeah, hopefully I have warped the manifold. Would give me a good excuse to replace it with one of Dann's though

Not that I can afford it right now

[Magpie]

warped the manifold

This can cause moisture to be trapped and may corrode without you seeing it. Were they stainless steel type?