apsilon's MX5

[apsilon]

So, finally starting work on the maintenance items I have planned and a few little upgrades. Wish I had a nice double garage to work in. The attached car port works but space around the car is minimal and I'm not getting any younger. If it was a larger car it wouldn't be possible, my Ranger won't even fit in the carport.

Got a fair way today (I'm not the fastest worker) with the rear suspension fully removed but in front I'm stuck trying to get the upper ball joint to separate from the hub so I'm going to have to pick up a separator tool which I was hoping I wouldn't need. Similarly I couldn't get the tie rod end to release, most people on Youtube seem to be able to reverse the castle nut and give it a few taps and it comes loose but mine aren't budging. Have the week off so I'll make a trip to SCA/Repco tomorrow and see what I can get to separate those ball joints. I'm going to replace the tie rod ends with the extended ones but wasn't going to do the ball joints as they appear OK but maybe I'll replace them given I don't think I'll be getting it back together this week anyway.

I'm probably going to have a few questions this week as there's plenty here with more mechanical knowledge than me and I'm sure plenty that have done this work before whereas most of it is new to me. Feel free to chime in with any tips before I ask.

[apsilon]

OK, first question. Thought I'd see how much new upper ball joints would be (don't want to do the lowers until I work out if I want/need the extended ones) and get the order in with Amayama but the Mazda EPC doesn't have the part number for the upper, only lower. Anyone know the part number for the upper ball joint?

EDIT: Nevermind, seems Mazda don't consider them replaceable. Ordered a pair of IL Motorsports ones so we'll see how they go.

[apsilon]

Any tips or tricks to identifying the UCAs left to right? Right now I know which is which but they look very similar. I would've said the same but the parts catalog has different part numbers for each side so there must be differences. The lowers have some obvious differences so they're easy but I'm worried I'm going to mix up the uppers.

[ManiacLachy]

The fronts? On mine there was a tab for an bracket on the ABS line to hold it to FUCA, this went towards the front of the car. I couldn't see much more than that to distinguish them. Maybe mark them with some whiteout or a paint pen if yours don't have the tab.

[apsilon]

Front and rear. Mine don't have any tabs. Side by side they look identical, tried measuring different things but all the same. There must be some differences if Mazda has different part numbers but I'm not seeing it.

Marking won't work as I'm having the lot powder coated so unless I file a notch or something which I'm reluctant to do I don't see a way to ID them. I think I'll have them done in 2 batches rather than all at once. All the right hand side then all the left. That way I can keep them separate. I don't have any time constraints on getting it done so an extra week won't matter, I have other things to do anyway while they're away.

[bruce]

Tell me, how do you find your lifting apparatus? It runs off a compressor or a powerpoint?

[apsilon]

Runs off standard 240v power but you can get one that runs off 12v instead. I like them though for me I lose some of the convenience as I can't leave it all on the carport as it's not too secure so I'm worried about them going walkies. So by the time I bring the lifts, hoses, pump and rubber blocks around from the shed, connect and position it all, then lift it to just before contact and readjust the support blocks (doesn't lift straight up) so they're in the right spot then lift all the way I could've put it up on jack stands. The plus side though is IMO they're far more sturdy and safer than jack stands so it's worth the trade off. There's enough room underneath to do pretty much anything you'd want to. Trans would be a bit of a pain but doable I believe

I'm temporarily stuck removing some of the bushings ATM. The smallest cup/receiver I have is too large to sit squarely over some of the smaller ones and I don't have anything else deep enough so I've had to order some bits which'll delay things. I'm waiting on other stuff anyway and have other things to go on with so not a big deal.

[bruce]

Thanks for the feedback.

[apsilon]

No worries, I'd recommend them to anyone who works on their own vehicle. They're a bit of an investment but I have no regrets with them.

So, while I'm waiting for some bits before carrying on with the bushes I spent today putting some bits into storage (all the stock bits are being kept so the car can be returned to stock should I decide to) weighing bits for my own interest and doing a few little jobs.

First I removed the baby teeth and rear tie downs. I wanted to retain some ability to pull the car just in case so I replaced them with Jas Performance Dural rear point and front strap mount (strap will be kept in the tool kit and fitted if necessary) in black so they don't stand out too much. Looks better plus the bonus weight reduction.





Next I removed the charcoal canister to clean up the engine bay and get some bonus weight saving.



Then I fitted the ultimate weight saving piece, changing out the cig lighter that I'll never use for a little plastic cover. TBH, it just takes up less room and rattles less in the ash tray with the mobile charging.



Nothing major but a few little jobs ticked off the list.

[apsilon]

Had some time left this afternoon so started preparing the coilovers even though it'll be a while before they get installed.

[ENGINR]

I understand your frustrations at setting up and working in a carport. Sometimes it feels like you spend more time dragging stuff out and setting it up then packing it away than you do actually working on your car!!

I was looking at one of those quick lift setups too, they were a little bit pricey but the convenience and sturdiness as compared to lifting the car and supporting it on jack-stands would be a great benefit.

Nice work on the MX5 too, looks like a really clean score and your modifications look to be really tasteful and well thought out - not ruining the integrity of the car. Good job!

[apsilon]

Thanks. I should mention that in addition to only having the carport I'm on a sloped block so there is no level ground to work on elsewhere. Still, first world problems as they say. The Quickjack is a bit pricey but I feel much more comfortable under the car with it unlike jack stands. Might come from having seen first hand one of those ratchet style ones get knocked and drop down a "tooth". Luckily that's all it did rather than drop all the way but still, change of underwear needed for those involved.

So today I thought I'd tackle the simple job of getting the hardtop demister working. The hardtop I have wasn't originally delivered from the car and I believe it's from an NB so the pigtail couldn't be connected. Using the miata.net garage hardtop FAQ (https://www.miata.net/garage/hardtop/) I order the parts I thought were needed, the new pigtail, relay and dash switch.

Pigtail was a PITA to swap despite looking simple. The original one the release tabs were up against the glass/top so very hard to see and get at and I didn't want to pull too hard and risk pulling the tabs off the demister tracks but I eventually got it swapped for the new one so that can now connect. Relay was a simple plug in job. All going well then.... popped out the dash switch blank and found no connector. Bit of hunting around found this:



I'm 99% certain that's the connector that should be there as looking at the wiring it merges into the loom with the wiring for the dash light dimmer and mirror controls next to it and that then runs off into a larger section of the loom. Problem is, that doesn't match up with the switch at all:



So either I have the wrong plug which I doubt and given all the other wiring is in place I'm fairly certain the car is wired for the demister as it's supposed to be. I have the correct switch part according to the miata.net FAQ but I'm leaning towards the switch/wiring being different for US cars so I likely need a different switch.

Has anyone done this or know someone who has done it? Anyone with an NA with factory delivered hardtop that could pop out their switch and see what their plug looks like?

EDIT: Come to think of it I'd appreciate it if anyone with a 94 - 97 would pop out that blank and see what they have. AFAIK all these cars were prewired for the hardtop demister.

[apsilon]

Well I found this: https://www.ilmotorsport.de/shop/articl ... 8&lang=EN#

Which looks like it might match the connector I have. Definitely a different switch to what I have. Not only is the rear connector different the front looks more like a rocker switch than the push button of the one I currently have. Hope fully someone can confirm I have the right dash connector before I drop another $80+ on another switch.

[Custardtart]

I always put a couple of wheel/tyres under the car as a “lifesaver” when using jack stands.
That Quicktrolley does look good and impressed by your results so far.

[93_Clubman]

Just referred back to my receipts & noticed Mazda dealer stuffed this up in 2004 when I asked for a defroster switch for my 1993 NA8 (which they had to order). Instead they supplied me with the fog light switch (BS06 66 480A). Took it back & they subsequently supplied me with defroster switch (N0076646000), which they also had to order. Can confirm the front of my switch looks like the IL Motorsport one: https://www.ilmotorsport.de/shop/articl ... 8&lang=EN#