Stu's NA6/SE

[legume]

Don't suppose you would want an engine, gearbox and diff too?

Yeah, I might be interested.

[StuwieP]

So some minor movement from last update. No exciting new pieces, but I bit the bullet and started really pulling the wiring/car apart.

A word of warning: even 29 year old MX5s with disconnected batteries and dismantled interiors can be playful. In the wind this afternoon, mine decided to play tag with the brand new (less than 2,000kms) M140i in the driveway beside me. The Beemer is now "it".

Fortunately, no damage that would have been an awkward conversation.

"Ouch, my eye!"


Slow going because it's just me working on it, and I don't really know what I'm doing so lots of looking at the diagram and labelling things before I do anything drastic.

I know this is all going to come out, but some of those wires might be necessary, or at least, I don't know if they're unnecessary.


Getting to this stage was a pretty good feeling.

Almost like all of the cars I see on here! Only not working...


Working my way from the passenger side engine bay across to the ECU, and then across to the ignition harness. I'm yet to get the driver's side engine bay wiring out.

No going back now!


Dad's headed to PI next Friday for a track day, so the car came home from the tuner's.

Don't be jealous... soon you'll be able to keep up*

(*driver actually keeping up not guaranteed)

[StuwieP]

Some movement since the last update.

Exciting things have been arriving. My shipment from Mania with coolant reroute and new conrods arrived during the week.

Dad gave me a hand pulling the motor down this weekend. It's a bare head and block now. Will be sending it off to get checked and cleaned up before heading north. Sadly that part of the plan will be a matter of a couple of months (plus dependant upon Dann's availability).

It was a good trick!



First time I've seen this in person - pretty cool



Also got some rims which will clear the brakes!

15x8 Enkeis. Do I need to tell you what model?



Late Sunday last week, I learned why you should (a) set your torque wrench properly; and (b) don't wrench while tired. Just like heavy machinery... Fortunately the good people at MCA are sending me a new stud to replace the one I destroyed

I definitely swore



The wiring harness has continued to undergo its strict diet regime. It's been slow going - measure 12 times, remove once. I've had 2 diagrams for reference, and labels on everything. The ECU is out, pretty much everything that ran from the engine, to or from the ECU, or to the dash has been removed. Pretty much all that's left is lights, HVAC, wipers and windows. I put it back in the car and the lights and wipers still work . HVAC system is not in the car so I'm just crossing my fingers and hoping that I didn't break that...

Photos to come

Wired in the new dash while I was checking functionality.

All the warning lights!



I also wired up my new indicators, lights and warning LEDs. Lots of solder and heatshrink. All the crimps are crimped, soldered and heatshrunk, so fingers crossed it all stays together. First test says the lights should be visible during the day and not overwhelming at night. Of course, I haven't tested them at night...





Rear brakes got a hit of colour (taped up all the important bits!). It's high temp paint but I suspect it won't last.

Matchy matchy

[StuwieP]

Shout out to Brendan "the psychic" Beavis. I placed an order yesterday evening and it arrived today.

The only two explanations are that he hand delivered the box, or that he knew a week in advance exactly what I was going to order.

Either way - above and beyond.

PS... Nice hotwheels ute

[Magpie]

Happy to help when you start to use the Software and setup sensors etc!

I really need to do the wiring diet job you did!

[StuwieP]

Thanks Magpie, I'm already writing my list

I think the biggest struggle will be getting the old ancillaries to work as before.

Pretty sure I've accounted for everything (Inc AC) except one wire, which ran from the heater to the ECU.

I just don't know why the heater system would talk to the ECU, and what it would do... If anyone can shed any light, I'd appreciate it.

[greenMachine]

Thanks Magpie, I'm already writing my list

I think the biggest struggle will be getting the old ancillaries to work as before.

Pretty sure I've accounted for everything (Inc AC) except one wire, which ran from the heater to the ECU.

I just don't know why the heater system would talk to the ECU, and what it would do... If anyone can shed any light, I'd appreciate it.

It wouldn't be the A/c switch would it, that would signal 'idle up' to the ECU when the air was switched on?

[StuwieP]

Unfortunately that one is already tagged...

What it could be is a switch to say the fan is at setting 3 or 4 and wants the revs to rise to deal with the load (just like the AC switch).

More investigation required...

[greenMachine]

Air doesn't come on until the a/c switch is 'on', and fan is on at least setting 1 (ie not fan off) ... on an NB anyway.

[StuwieP]

Hmm possibly.

I'll need to look at the diagrams but I think that might be at the switch not at the ecu. As in, the AC wire to the ecu is only "on" when fan =/>1 and AC switch =1.

[StuwieP]

Air doesn't come on until the a/c switch is 'on', and fan is on at least setting 1 (ie not fan off) ... on an NB anyway.

Wire in question runs from the heater control unit to ECU. Blue and orange (l/o).

Looks to me as though it is activated when the fan is turned from low (1) to med (2) and stays on at H2 (3) and H1 (4).

Doesn't appear to interact with the AC unit at all - direct from fan to ECU.

The question is, is it a variable resistor? i.e. should I be running it to an AVI input rather than a DSI input on the haltech - so each step = more load on battery/alternator = compensate by adding revs?

[StuwieP]

A couple of weeks since last update, so here goes...

Head and block sent off to the machinist to be measured and cleaned up. I think I'm going to end up deeper in than I bargained for... I'm told it's all within spec though, which is good news.

Rear end came out, the NB rear got a good clean up. Braided brake lines installed and metal brake shields were "massaged" with some giant grips to clear the new brake rotors.

Almost can't believe that's all there is to the rear of the car


New tyres on rims. 225/15 RS4s It's a lot of tyre compared to the old 185/14 RE001s. Even dad is looking impressed, and he's the one with the W310.

old v new


test fit on the rear


test fit clearance on the front brakes - success!


Borrowed an engine crane from our mechanic friend, who conveniently was busy and disappeared promptly.

My uncle and dad assisted, I guided the box out through the tunnel. I thought we had drained it but there was a good litre of oil still there which promptly poured through the output shaft and onto the person lying on their back, hanging on so it didn't punch any holes in the chassis on its way out (i.e. me).

Its final moments. Farewell sweet B6.


Adding lightness. Am I doing it wrong?


Gearbox comparison: the case on the 6 speed has a lot more of the ridges, which I assume provide some rigidity which the 5 speed is missing. Also rebuilt the shifter while it was all on the floor.

[StanTheMan]

All within spec?
Thats no dammed good. You want the head to be at least 2mm below factory minimum.....ohhh wait. Your going turbo?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[StuwieP]

Yeah Stan that's the plan. All going to get put back together properly and plan not to be taken apart again for some time.

[legume]

Looks to me as though it is activated when the fan is turned from low (1) to med (2) and stays on at H2 (3) and H1 (4).

Doesn't appear to interact with the AC unit at all - direct from fan to ECU.

The question is, is it a variable resistor? i.e. should I be running it to an AVI input rather than a DSI input on the haltech - so each step = more load on battery/alternator = compensate by adding revs?

I only just noticed this the other day at the lights. I turned the heater up from 1 to 2 and the revs kicked up a little.