CAMS/FIA Battery Isolation Switch

takai · Postby **takai** » Tue May 01, 2018 12:31 pm

As Cartek themselves say, secondary breaker

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Tue May 01, 2018 12:56 pm

takai wrote:As Cartek themselves say, secondary breaker

I agreed...

However if it is installed wrong, like any other kill switch then it will not do its job properly...

You remind me of my partner, no matter what is said it is wrong

takai · Postby **takai** » Tue May 01, 2018 2:56 pm

Magpie wrote:
You remind me of my partner, no matter what is said it is wrong

I believe that would be you actually.

Magpie wrote:
takai wrote: The Cartek isolator is a ground break, which often lets the engine run on with alternator, and so needs secondary breakers etc.
WRONG my engine will NOT run on the alternator, how do I know well because I HAVE one...

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Tue May 01, 2018 3:16 pm

Again I agree, the Cartek in my car is wired such that it kills everything. So yes it has a secondary breaker. However that is not the issue, if, like any other item is wired in correctly it will do its job.

takai wrote:The Cartek isolator is a ground break, which often lets the engine run on with alternator, and so needs secondary breakers etc.

This was my issue, it will not let the engine run on the alternator if done correctly!

How is the Gary Rowe Tyco wired in? By the way I have purchased from Gary as well.

takai · Postby **takai** » Tue May 01, 2018 4:46 pm

Hopefully this link for the Tyco relay wiring is visible http://www.ipraforum.com.au/viewtopic.p ... 4cb#p89367

If not ill copy and paste from a computer later.

The issue isn't with a secondary breaker, but rather that it extends the wiring required. A positive breaker on our cars means everything bar the triggers can live up in the drivers side cowl under the fuse box, as you can break both the main power feed, alternator and EFI fuses there.

Nuddy · Postby **Nuddy** » Tue May 01, 2018 9:34 pm

takai wrote:
Nuddy wrote:My NC is a road registered race car.
CAMS log book lists it as 2F.
It has a simple isolator switch.
Daniel Deckers made a simple modification to the wiring loom so that it cuts out the alternator too.
Operate the switch and the engine stops.

Where is the switch physically located?

Regs state that it has to be operable by the driver, which means that most people mount it on the trans tunnel or dash. But on our MX5s there is a nice convenient run to the driver side cowl area where a switch could be located, but fails that reg. Hence this thread about remote switches etc.

Killswitch aac.JPG

Killswitch aab.JPG

Killswitch aaa.JPG

takai · Postby **takai** » Tue May 01, 2018 9:45 pm

Nuddy wrote:
takai wrote:
Nuddy wrote:My NC is a road registered race car.
CAMS log book lists it as 2F.
It has a simple isolator switch.
Daniel Deckers made a simple modification to the wiring loom so that it cuts out the alternator too.
Operate the switch and the engine stops.

Where is the switch physically located?

Regs state that it has to be operable by the driver, which means that most people mount it on the trans tunnel or dash. But on our MX5s there is a nice convenient run to the driver side cowl area where a switch could be located, but fails that reg. Hence this thread about remote switches etc.

Killswitch aac.JPGKillswitch aab.JPGKillswitch aaa.JPG

Thanks, double cable which is a nice simple setup.