Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

[Lokiel]

My first black VooDoo knob had no shift pattern on it and I managed to buy another WITH the shift pattern on this forum so put that in Gina.

The first VooDoo now resides in my SP23 which worked out well since it has a 5-Speed rather than 6-speed gearbox (the SP23's "special gearknob" looks OK but when you actually feel it in the hand you realise that it's cheap, the faux leather is crap and the chrome is a cheap plastic chrome).

I actually prefer the the look of the unadulterated VooDoo knob and don't need to care that it's not aligned right so in future would just buy them this way and put a sticker for the shift pattern on the console if anyone bitched about it.

Interestingly, the black VooDoo knob in the SP23 still gets F'N hot in summer so it's not just a convertible problem.

[ManiacLachy]

It was your knob in Gina with the pattern that inspired me to get mine. It's nice and despite being light I would have continued to use it if the alignment issue wasn't so bad now. It was really bugging me. If Voodoo made their knobs with a wide open bottom like the Moddiciton, you could use jam nuts to set the alignment.

I might get a Rev Limiter sh*t pattern plate for mine, as you're meant to have the pattern somewhere visible. Plus, I think his plate designs look good - just like everything that guy does!


http://revlimiter.net/store/shift-plate.php

I now have 4 shift knobs. Stock, Blox Type-R , Voodoo and Moddiction.

[Gladiator]

Here is possible fix in case you ever decide you want to go back to the old knob. Screw a nut onto the shaft first, then screw the knob on to where the shift pattern is straight, then screw the lock nut back up to the knob. It should lock on & hold firm.

[greenMachine]

Interestingly, the black VooDoo knob in the SP23 still gets F'N hot in summer so it's not just a convertible problem.

Damn right! It is the sun coming through the windscreen, and I keep a cleaning rag or a bucket hat in the cabin for when my black one gets so freaking hot I can't touch it with bare skin

[ManiacLachy]

Here is possible fix in case you ever decide you want to go back to the old knob. Screw a nut onto the shaft first, then screw the knob on to where the shift pattern is straight, then screw the lock nut back up to the knob. It should lock on & hold firm.

The problem with that is that the knob is counter sunk, so it screws right down low and the thread is buried deep in the knob. The opening on the Voodoo isn't wide enough to swallow a jam nut (the Moddiction is), so while you could align it, but it would be sticking up quite high and probably wouldn't engage many threads.

I have read that you could add something inside the knob so the shifter won't go quite down so far, we're only talking 3/4 of a turn less to get back to square. I've seen the rubber eraser from the end of a pencil suggested, which is good because it won't damage anything and can compress a little.

Interestingly, the black VooDoo knob in the SP23 still gets F'N hot in summer so it's not just a convertible problem.

Damn right! It is the sun coming through the windscreen, and I keep a cleaning rag or a bucket hat in the cabin for when my black one gets so freaking hot I can't touch it with bare skin

I do wonder how hot the Moddiction is going to get, it's stainless steel instead of aluminium. The days have been pleasantly mild this week but I expect it will get scorching, but then I'll just have to make quick shifts until it cools.

[Gladiator]

I’ve got a Skunk2 knob & i’ve never had it get hot. Strange.


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[KevGoat]

I don't recall my Skunk2 getting as warm as my Blox does - maybe slightly different materials/coatings? Never gets too hot though, even in direct sun, and it cools quickly. I always forget to think about covering it. The improved shift feel with the extra weight makes it all worth it ...

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[ianoz]

The opening on the Voodoo isn't wide enough to swallow a jam nut

is there space for something like a tube nut? you find them on things like bathroom taps (undo from underneath with something that looks like a two pronged fork). can make your own from some thin wall alloy tube and tap a thread inside.

locknut.jpg

[ManiacLachy]

I've never seen something like that before, maybe that would work. I'm not too fussed right now but it's something to keep in mind, good looking out

[ManiacLachy]

Warning, kinda large post but hopefully informative.

This weekend I installed Energy Suspension Polyurethane differential bushings into the car. I made the job much harder and longer by trying to make easier and quicker. If you attempt this don't think you can do it with the diff still in the car - don't! Just pull the whole thing and save yourself a lot of trouble. Trust me.


Let's begin!

To do this job, you need to remove the rear bracing (my old threaded bolt friend), drop the muffler, disconnect the PPF completely at the rear and leave one bolt in at the front to swing it out of the way, disconnect the drive shaft, drain the diff, remove the wheels, disconnect the rear upper control arm outer, loosen the rear lower control arm outer, disconnect a bracket holding the ABS sensor, disconnect the parking brake cable, pop the axles out of the diff and then lower the diff and take it to the bench. Getting the axles clear of the diff was a bit difficult, as was getting them back in!


thecarpassionchannel has a great video showing the steps, but don't try to remove the bushings the way he does it, there's a better way!

Invest in a ball joint press tool and a 4" 3 jaw puller, you could get both from ebay for less than $80. The ball joint press is especially useful for all your home pressing needs (I'm looking at you control arm bushings!), and the plates and receivers are usefull in a variety of places, such as this diff bushing removal. On MT.net, Soviet showed this technique, it's a much quicker, easier, cleaner way than burning them out, or drilling, or hammer and chisel. Use the ball joint receiver to push on the metal ring of the bushing, don't try to press something on the rubber in the middle, it will just stretch!
https://www.miataturbo.net/suspension-brakes-drivetrain-49/how-remove-replace-differential-bushings-63527/


Those grip vises are extremely useful!


Take it nice and slow, make sure everything lines up.


End result is a clean bore and a fully intact old bushing.

At this point you could install poly bushes, or delrin or even new rubber. Just lube them up and press them in by hand, with a vice, a press, anything - it's not too hard.


Ta-da! Seriously, this was the easiest part of the job thanks to the tools

For the poly bushes I needed retainer plates without the rubber pads. You can burn it off your old plates, but I opted to buy some refurbed ones from MiataRoadster.com
http://www.miataroadster.com/miataroadster/miataroadster-lower-differential-mount-brackets/g-63230.aspx


Stock retainer plate with rubber pads, and the clean refurbed MiataRoadster plate with the bottom half of the poly bush

Then it's time to put everything back in the car and fill the diff with new oil. I was concerned about some press caps in the top of the rear of the PPF, you have to pop them to remove the diff and it's not really possible to press them back in with the PPF in the car, however they sucked down easily by screwing the bolt back in, no need for concern. Getting the axles in was a pain, basically you need to move the diff side to side to make room.

With the muffler off I decided to try to fix an issue that had been bugging me. Since getting a crack repaired in the exhaust maybe a year and half ago the muffler tip has been hanging low, and didn't look right in the cut out. The muffler shop that did the repair swapped out the rubber hangers and they're a bit longer than before. While under there I noticed that the rubbers have 4 holes, 2 are further apart than the other 2 (45mm vs 35mm) and the muffler was using the long ones. So I pulled all the rubbers off an rotated them to use the short edge.


4 hole exhaust rubber hanger. In the back ground my cheap swaybar stopper is working brilliantly

To my pleasant surprise, the muffler went back in much easier than it came out, and it lined up perfectly. The muffler tip sits nice and high and centre now. I'll also note that NitroDann's exhaust is really great fitment, clearances and spot on, very happy with it still going strong over 3 years now.


That's a better fitment. I don't have a before, just imagine this 10mm lower

Then it was time for the test drive, where you're extremely nervous and highly sensitive to any new noises! I'd just taken apart a major component of the drive line and put it back together Happy to report no problems, and the change in bushings was very positive. NVH changed to a very small degree (note, my car is already a bit of a buzz box). But shifting felt much crisper and getting on and off the power feels much nicer too, there's no wind up before the power gets to the wheels, it feels much more direct.


Successful test drive!

This is probably one of the biggest mechanical jobs I've undertaken, I made a lot of rookie mistakes but I learned a lot doing it. It probably took me about 10 hours over 2 days to do, but if I were to do it again (and I probably will to help a friend swap a diff), I think I could easily cut that time in half. Experience really is a great teacher.

As for the bushings themselves, I definitely recommend them.

[Magpie]

I have read this and will take note!

[Lokiel]

You've come a LONG way, from being wary of doing any modz yourself to ripping out the diff all by yourself. knowing that you needed the car up and running Monday morning.

As frustrating as some of these big jobs can be, you get an amazing amount of satisfaction completing them yourself and end up with LOTS of tools that make subsequent jobs easier, plus it gets done how you want it (also can lead to additional modz when you recognise other issues while you're "in there").

I did chuckle at the "I made the job much harder and longer by trying to make easier and quicker." comment though since I've done similar things myself and now know better (hopefully).
Now if I read that a job is easier if you disassemble stuff rather than work around it, I listen rather than skin my knuckles and forearms, swearing and wasting several hours before following the suggestion.

[ManiacLachy]

You've come a LONG way, from being wary of doing any modz yourself to ripping out the diff all by yourself. knowing that you needed the car up and running Monday morning.

As frustrating as some of these big jobs can be, you get an amazing amount of satisfaction completing them yourself and end up with LOTS of tools that make subsequent jobs easier, plus it gets done how you want it (also can lead to additional modz when you recognise other issues while you're "in there").

I did chuckle at the "I made the job much harder and longer by trying to make easier and quicker." comment though since I've done similar things myself and now know better (hopefully).
Now if I read that a job is easier if you disassemble stuff rather than work around it, I listen rather than skin my knuckles and forearms, swearing and wasting several hours before following the suggestion.

Thanks

When I first got this car almost 4 years ago, I don't think I'd ever even turned a lug nut! One time I had a flat in my Audi on the way to work, I figured I could put the spare on and get to work. In a servo parking lot I jacked up the corner of the car but I couldn't get the tyre iron onto the lugs, no matter how I tried. Turns out they had a rubber cap over them, the RACQ man had it sorted very quickly

I've learned a lot, that's for sure. And my tool collection has grown vastly from a set of inherited sockets and screw drivers. These days my biggest concern is not being able to complete the job in time, either simply running out of time or by having a broken/missing part or tool that I can't get easily. It doesn't help that my girlfriend likes to plan things for me on the weekends, taking up a few hours each day. I really want a daily driver to ease those concerns, and to be able to drive the dog around with me. Otherwise I'm mostly confident I could work most anything out. Being from a software developer background I have decent problem solving skills, and they transfer well to working on a car.

I've told myself before not to fall for the traps of trying to make a job easier but actually making it harder. But I seem to keep doing it.

[IanR]

Top effort Lachy, no small feat!

[Magpie]

Hopefully the dodgy day events have helped with your skills. I must admit that I have enjoyed learning things at these days, plus it has proven that it is possible to do a lot of the work yourself.