Lachstock and Four Turbo Charged Cylinders ['04 NB SE]

[KevGoat]

I can be anal at times ...

You can be anal?

Are there any differences on this panel in the text for the warning lights for Aus to US??

Missed this question when asked originally so answering it now:

No, the text on the panel is the same for Aus and US - hence the word "GAS" instead of "Petrol" or "Fuel".
The Warning lights are in the correct spots (ie. labels are correct).

Reason I asked at the time was I'd noticed some had "ABS" where our low fuel light is. I think those may be UK &/or Europe - not sure.

When I heard you got rear ended I cringed a LOT, thankfully the damage only looks superficial.

My son was here when I read Lachy's post and my "Oh NO!!" caused him to ask what had happened Had vision of completely crumpled rear Happy to see it's on superficial as well.

Even if they have to replace the bumper and can't get hold of an SE bumper, the "extra parachute" is transferable if not damaged. I still have a spare one I originally bought to put on my NB8A, but have kept it in the shed when I sold that car for just such a situation.

[ManiacLachy]

When I heard you got rear ended I cringed a LOT, thankfully the damage only looks superficial.

My son was here when I read Lachy's post and my "Oh NO!!" caused him to ask what had happened Had vision of completely crumpled rear Happy to see it's on superficial as well.

Thanks for the concern guys. To me it's really minor, I just hope the body shop agrees.

[ManiacLachy]

I finally got all of the stock rubber bushings out of my spare control arms! I bought this set so I could swap in poly bushes (w/ SADFab bronze bearings) with a minimum down time on my car.

I was planning to visit Magpie and utilise his hydraulic press, but he lives too far, and it's been too hot, so I bought a ball joint press to help me press out the bushings. It's basically a beefy C-clamp with a variety of fittings and receivers. At first I used it with a socket and ratchet, but the rattle gun was much easier and didn't cause as much off centre movement.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10pc-Ball-Joint-Service-Kit-Remover-Separator-Adaptor-4x4-Garage-Tool-Car-Van-/141701746039?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10


Actually much beefier in person

It worked perfectly except for the rear lower control arm, which has two bushings too close together to use the C-clamp style press. I had to ghetto-rig up a press using some threaded rod and some washers - this has been done on various forums and YouTube videos, I just stole their idea.


Pretty easy to do. Even easier with a rattle gun! Make sure you grease the threads


Ghetto-rigged! Had to buy this with imperial sizes as the metric rod was way too long. Then I had to buy imperial spanners.

The ball joint press, along with a 3-jaw puller, will also be useful in my eventual Diff Bushing upgrade - which will probably happen before these control arms are ready.
https://www.miataturbo.net/suspension-brakes-drivetrain-49/how-remove-replace-differential-bushings-63527/

Now, I need to decide if I should get the arms sandblasted and painted/powder coated. If I do I'll need to replace the upper ball joint, and I'm not sure if I can be bothered. Most of the arms are in pretty good nick, except the rear lowers. Maybe I could just clean them up and rattle can them? Any advice?

Also, I picked up a square top intake manifold for a steal at $150. No immediate plans to use this yet, but in time with a Skunk2 TB and some porting & polishing I can see this going on.


It's hip to be square!

And lastly, I pick my car up from the repairer's later today!

[Daffy]

I’ll be keen to see how the new bushings work out mate

[ManiacLachy]

I did a little detailing on the weekend, and a quick fix on the rear sway bar.

My wiper arms are showing their age, cracking paint and oxidation. I pulled them off, sanded them back and sprayed them with a couple of coats of some flat black. This was my first go at painting anything since I used my fingers in kindergarten. First go wasn't much good so I gave it a light sand and resprayed. Still, got some exposed edges though, so I'll give it another coating this weekend. And I replaced my blades with some from wipertech.com.au Haven't had cause to try them yet, but they look nice.


Wiper arms looking a little tatty


Should I go with the chrome look?


Finished product, with new blades and Naturally Black treated cowl


Not quite perfect

A few bits of black trim are starting to show their age also. I've previously rubbed them down with 303, but it doesn't last long. I'd heard good things about Mother's Naturally Black trim restorer. I accidentally got the "Heavy Duty" version, it came with a toothbrush for applying it. I did my rear valance, wiper cowl, shorty antenna, and the little flaps the SE got over the rear wheels. So far they're looking nice but I'll reserve judgement for a few more weeks.

http://www.mothers.com/02_products/06141.html#&slider1=16

My rear sway bar has been shifting sideways, causing one corner to knock on the subframe. I tried re-centring it a few times, but it keeps wandering. I read that a bit of hose and some clamps should do a good job of holding it in, so re-centred, de-greased the exposed bar and put in my homemade stoppers. So far, so good.


A little more to the left


Hopefully this will hold

Finally, I 303'd my soft top, and applied Rainx to the windshield. I should do those more often, they don't last long.

Hoping to do a proper wash/clay/wax this weekend.

[KevGoat]

If the hose & clamps don't work out, could try these lateral locks from Whiteline ...

[Daffy]

If the hose & clamps don't work out, could try these lateral locks from Whiteline ...

I got them in, but not for long enough yet to say how well they work yet

You’ve inspired me to do a massive detail job on the Problem Child Lachy

[ManiacLachy]

Thanks guys, if the hose doesn't work I'll look into them. The SE's rear sway bar is 14mm, I think the whiteline's are different? But I haven't looked into it, they may have various size collars.

The cars look so good after a detail, and very rewarding. But the results never last long and then procrastination sets in. Unfortunately my car lives in the sun all day at work now, so I think I'd better keep up with a regular waxing to protect the paint a little.

[Lokiel]

:
The cars look so good after a detail, and very rewarding. But the results never last long
:

... lasts even less if your car's BLACK (but in that brief 5 minute period after you've finished detailing the black car, it looks friggin' awesome).

[IanR]

the SE's rear sway bar is 14mm, I think the whiteline's are different? .

Whiteline are 16mm, apparently 14mm is the right size according to 949...

[ManiacLachy]

Another productive weekend for the car

For a while I've been unhappy with the mounting of my Elise seats. The driver's seat was slightly twisted, the passenger seat was far more outboard than the drivers, and they had too much layback/recline for me. Well, this weekend my seats saw more in-and-out action than a brothel, but the results are good.

The Flipside Customs mounts I'm using mount the seat as low as possible, a little too low actually the seat is sitting and rubbing on the rail. This is the root of most of my issues, the seat simply can't be moved around within the adjustments because the rails interfere with the seat.


Interference fit, too low!

My solution to the layback was to put a spacer under the rear mounts, this raises the butt, but leaves the front in position. And this raises the seat base from the rails! Now the seat can be moved about within the adjustments!


For the driver's seat I found a pair of spacers that I believe came with my intercooler


On the passenger side I had to get creative, and used a nut and two washers, very close to the size of the spacers

Except for the passenger seat The bracket on one side is simply maxed out and won't allow the seat to be moved inboard. I tried some concussive persuasion (hit it with a hammer), but the steel is a little too strong. However, the twist of the driver's seat moves it a little more outboard so now they appear much more similarly aligned.

The spacers gave me the layback I wanted, just a few degrees but it makes a difference. It did raise my head height a little but still much lower than stock. I didn't take any pictures of the seat alignment changes, they're very subtle wouldn't really be noticeable in a photo. Just take my word, this is better.

I did manage to damage one of the threads for the rail bolts (into the car), and I had to run out and by a tap and die set, so I learned about taps this weekend too. The tap set will come in handy again with my control arms for the zerk fittings, and I'm sure they'll be useful in general.

I'm pretty happy with the seat mounts now. I think the only thing I'd be interested in to change to would be some floor mounts, similar to the Ryoku-Rob mounts, that never made it to full production.

Then as planned I gave the car a good wash, clay and wax. I even 303'd the interior and cleaned all the glass. Also, I reinstalled my "bear hook" which I took off for the bumper repairs. I gave my wiper arms another coat, no more exposed edges. And I'm happy to report my ghetto swaybar stays are working nicely.

What will I do next weekend? Maybe get back to work on my control arms? Maybe I'll go for a drive?!

[Daffy]

What will I do next weekend? Maybe get back to work on my control arms? Maybe I'll go for a drive?!

Go for a drive! When a great chef is preparing a great meal, chef must taste what is cooking periodically to make sure everything is on track

[StillIC]

I have sent my v2.0 Elise seat mount design to the laser cutter. I am currently waiting for the job to reach the front of the queue. Version 1 images are shown attached. Version 2 will be better insofar as it will not have mounting nutserts for the rails, but simple slots/holes, which allows some amount of sideways adjustment on the passenger side mount (and provides opportunity for slot/hole enlargement if necessary). From memory the driver's side is already hard up against the outside rail and needs to go further that way, negating the need for more sideways adjustment (although there is some tolerance allowed for differing dimensions between rails on different cars by using slots on one side).

Also, instead of being two separate pieces which allows a small amount of 'racking' (sideways movement due to rocking on the rails), it will be one large piece connecting the rails together below the seat.

Of interest, coarse adjustment of recline angle is done by moving the bolts on the side, at front, with fine adjustment done on the threads on the underside of the seat itself. It is possible to get almost any reasonable angle desired.

[kiezon]

Will the seat brackets attach to sliding rails as well? If so, I know who I'll be going to when I get my pair.

[Okibi]

Looks good!