Indicators / central locks
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- Learner Driver
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Indicators / central locks
Got a minor issue which I intend to sort out myself if I can. When ever I turn the indicators on, it trips the door locks. The doors don't lock but you can hear the mechanisms operating. Fuse? Earth?
- hks_kansei
- Speed Racer
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Re: Indicators / central locks
Factory or aftermarket central locking?
If aftermarket I'd assume the unit has stuffed up, since a lot of non-factory central locking/alarms include the indicators.
Unlikely to be a fuse, but it's easy to open the fuse box and test them anyway.
If aftermarket I'd assume the unit has stuffed up, since a lot of non-factory central locking/alarms include the indicators.
Unlikely to be a fuse, but it's easy to open the fuse box and test them anyway.
1999 Mazda MX5 - 1989 Honda CT110 (for sale) - 1994 Mazda 626 wagon (GF's)
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- Forum Guru
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Re: Indicators / central locks
Faulty install of an aftermarket security system? They're wired to flash the indicators when you lock/unlock with the remote and when they detect an intrusion.
edit, OK hks_kansei, you beat me there!
edit, OK hks_kansei, you beat me there!
’95 NA8
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- Learner Driver
- Posts: 21
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- Vehicle: NB8B
Re: Indicators / central locks
I have to assume factory. The button fob says Mazda Motor Corporation, Japan.
- hks_kansei
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Re: Indicators / central locks
Probably a safe assumption that it's factory if that's the case.
Most aftermarket ones will have a hideous and gaudy remote, usually with some ugly colour combo like a blue shell with bright yellow buttons.
Anyway, not that it's likely to be the cause, but have you checked the fuses yet? (either visually, and looking for a break in the small wire inside, or removing each and using a multimeter/test light to check that current passes through them)
Unlikely to cause this kind of issue, since normally a blown fuse would mean stuff just stops working full stop.
Assuming that's all ok, it may be a matter of tracing the wires and looking for a split/broken one that's shorting.
First place i'd look would be the door, specifically the hinge area where the wires pass through a rubber grommet from door to car.
Since that bends each time the door opens, that's where it's most likely to fatigue or get pinched by something.
Other than that i'm not really too sure, since i'm not that familiar with the late NB keyless central.
Most aftermarket ones will have a hideous and gaudy remote, usually with some ugly colour combo like a blue shell with bright yellow buttons.
Anyway, not that it's likely to be the cause, but have you checked the fuses yet? (either visually, and looking for a break in the small wire inside, or removing each and using a multimeter/test light to check that current passes through them)
Unlikely to cause this kind of issue, since normally a blown fuse would mean stuff just stops working full stop.
Assuming that's all ok, it may be a matter of tracing the wires and looking for a split/broken one that's shorting.
First place i'd look would be the door, specifically the hinge area where the wires pass through a rubber grommet from door to car.
Since that bends each time the door opens, that's where it's most likely to fatigue or get pinched by something.
Other than that i'm not really too sure, since i'm not that familiar with the late NB keyless central.
1999 Mazda MX5 - 1989 Honda CT110 (for sale) - 1994 Mazda 626 wagon (GF's)
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