Mr Morlock wrote:Its not a minor issue- it can easily lead to "consequential damages" something that car companies don't entertain. The issue it would appear is not the battery (?) but a system fault causing the current draw. Mazda dealers did a poor job . In an engineering organisation especially car companies they conduct Problem solving techniques and these are taken seriously- team jobs and pressure to fix. My bet is that a the fault would have been picked up pretty easily e.g. confined to a specific model though the fix takes longer- very likely that the engineers were aware. The fault could have been faulty manufacture or the need for a design change - we will never know the fine detail. I fully agree with RBH- its not good enough.
Anyway what's with switching off cruise controls- I thought al modern cars automatically switch off and need to be reset after keys are removed.
You know you are starting to sound ridiculous saying this is not minor. It's bloody minor!!!
Consequential damages are only relevant for rich people with too much money to throw at a lawyer to sue a company or someone.
Stupid people and the easily deceived can be a substitute for rich people as they generally end up with nothing and the lawyer gets a great pay day.
Like RBH has said himself turn the thing off and it is solved for now. Easiest work around ever.
This problem will be well down the pecking order of problems for them to rectify but will eventually get fixed.
Manufacturers have not even done recalls for real serious problems like ball joints failing on cars with low km's on them. They just changed them if they were still in the warranty period, otherwise bad luck.
RBH58 wrote:Luke. I’ve had 4 flat batteries since I bought the car. It’s been inconvenient and my battery is probably stuffed. I’ve complained to the dealer 3 times and Mazda Australia twice. I was fobbed off on every occasion and told that a 12-14 day battery life was acceptable “for a modern car” and that there was no problem. This was balonney. I hate being bullshitted to.
Yes, it’s not a serious problem and I now turn my cruise control off when I park the car (when I remember). I’d be happy if Mazda’s fix was switch the cruise off when the car is turned off. But I expect them to fix the problem AND replace my stuffed battery. And I don’t think that’s unreasonable. I didn’t hand over $50k for a new car to be treated like a dick.
Early adopters issue.
No manufacturer of anything, not just cars can foresee or test every possible use that a product may encounter.
You become the final tester as an early adopter. Sad, but a fact of life.
They will eventually fix the problem, but good luck getting a battery out of them. Read the warranty book and you will likely find the battery is not covered and they will use that as the excuse for not changing it if it is still working during the warranty period. If it completely fails you may have a chance as they should have a record of your complaints.
I don't think your battery will be stuffed by going flat 4 times. Mine has been flat way more than that and it is 8 years old.
You may feel that Mazda were treating you like a dick, but if they don't know what was the wrong because the product is so new and the exact same parameters could not be presented for testing, it is very hard for them to have an answer other than go away.
I always try to avoid being an early adopter as usually the product has bugs or faults, is at its highest price and quickly devalues once the hype wears off.
I've only done it once on a more expensive item when I bought an original backwards compatible PS3 a good 9 months after the launch. I wasn't gonna pay $1000 for one, but got lucky with a group deal so only payed $750. Guess what, it is now the worst PS3 model as it is the least reliable and has the weakest slowest componentry. Yellow light of death issue, caused by insufficient cooling to the GPU which has a root cause created by the EU requiring "safe" crappy lead free solder which eventually cracks after so many heat cycles. Repairable but expensive to do. Mine was repaired twice before real lead/tin solder was put in at the 3rd attempt. No YLOD's since.
I like to be at the other end of early adopters problems.
Either by buying their used product for cheap that already has fixes available. That's how and why I got a 2016 ND GT. Cheap.
Or by waiting for a series 2 or similar update that fixes the early bugs.