Speed's boosted NA6

[smy0003]

Having just removed it, can you comment on the ever controversial stiffness debate?

Rohan, that's a good question.
At speeds between 40 to 60 I definitely notice more scuttle shake and I have the NA8 tower brace fitted.

As far as chassis stiffness goes, I really need some sort of scientific method to test the level of rigidity.
Surprisingly it is not near as much as I expected and I've just blasted through the Nasho.


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I saw your shot on FB, looks like you had a nice day!

[shirtz]

what are the details of that seat bracket? I know mxmania do something simular.

im 6"2 and I just bought some custom ones from the UK that mount to stock locations and side mount into my sparco sprint. at the lowest, most far back position I can still do up the rear bolts (there is a system, but its doable). I can sit in the car with hardtop and helmet and not hit the roof, but don't think id pass the broomstick test.

[speed]

what are the details of that seat bracket? I know mxmania do something simular.

The first one is from track dog racing. The 2nd I found on jdmbits.com

I don't really know the details other than they are made for aftermarket fixed bucket seats. The trackdog ones come as raw metal as they expect side mounts to be welded in.

I've already got a sparco on stock rails but want to mount a stock seat in for practicality and stealth reasons.

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[shirtz]

hmm maybe just a spare set of rails with a sock seat and swap as needed.

[speed]

hmm maybe just a spare set of rails with a sock seat and swap as needed.

Already have that. I don't find the sparco comfortable on anything more than a short drive and its a pain to get in and out of.
I'm also concerned about being pulled over as with the sparco lettering they stand out from miles away.

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[speed]

Before I mess with the height of the drivers seat I thought I'd take some pictures for reference.

The first pic (although blury!) Shows my view from a na6 seat with foamectomy.
I'm purposely not slouching.

The 2nd pic is the same seat but with the rails removed and the seat sitting on the floor.

Now I realise that the height will be a bit higher with the bracket installed but it is definitely a HUGE improvement, especially out the windscreen.



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[speed]

And my legroom with the seat on the floor.


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[speed]

Moved the car out of the garage ready to go for a drive to find a fresh oil stain
Appears to be where the diff is.
Looks like I'll be swapping in the torsen asap!

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[speed]

These guys make it look easy.

https://youtu.be/1AjEGQW6MMQ

I'm concerned that that they didn't mention different bolts as 3gress had recently discovered.

I'll also be doing this solo, unless anyone could be bothered to keep me company?

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[Regie]

when are you planning on attacking it?

I've done NC diff swaps, the earlier models can't be that different

[speed]

when are you planning on attacking it?

I've done NC diff swaps, the earlier models can't be that different

Hey Regie, I'm just looking at it now but it appears to be leaking from the seal at the back of the gearbox where it joins the tailshaft.
I'm going to pull the diff anyways but won't be able to refit until I get a new seal.
Also need to purchase 23mm and 29mm sockets as I don't have them in my tool box.
I do have a torsen, axles and drive shaft to go in.
If I did start today I wouldn't get far without the 29mm socket but otherwise could do it any day this week.
I'm hoping Mania have the seal in stock as I have to pop out there anyway for the seat mount.
Otherwise I could do any day this week.



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[speed]

So I bought the needed sockets and made a start. I'm now stuck on one of the 29mm nuts that holds the drivers side axle in.

My little rattle gun is too weak to crack it.
I've used wd40 and tried a breaker bar and hanging off it but even with the car in gear with hand brake on the hub is turning ever so slightly.

Then I tried using a trolley jack under the breaker bar but that just lifts the suspension.

It's a tad frustrating that one nut is preventing me from removing the axles.

Not sure where to go from here


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[StanTheMan]

So I bought the needed sockets and made a start. I'm now stuck on one of the 29mm nuts that holds the drivers side axle in.

My little rattle gun is too weak to crack it.
I've used wd40 and tried a breaker bar and hanging off it but even with the car in gear with hand brake on the hub is turning ever so slightly.

Then I tried using a trolley jack under the breaker bar but that just lifts the suspension.

It's a tad frustrating that one nut is preventing me from removing the axles.

Not sure where to go from here


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I used a 1m extension pipe and another person of 85kg virtually jumped up & down on it to finally open it. mine was about 15 years old at the time so if yours has never been opened.....sheeeeit

another member here drove his car to a tyre place & had the tyre place open he bolts for him. He drove it back gingerly & proceeded with the swap.

[rascal]

another member here drove his car to a tyre place & had the tyre place open he bolts for him.

Agree with getting the tyre mob to loosen them,. Their rattle guns have 100000000000Nm torque when they do up the nuts when you change/rotate tyres so should have no issue cracking then axle nut...

sarcasm aside, any workshop with a decent rattle gun will do...

[speed]

Thanks STM and Rascal,
The other advice I was given was to pop a centre cap and put the wheels back on, drop the car back to the ground and crack it with a breaker bar with a long extension pipe.
Since I never want to be in this position again I bought something...
I literally used it for 2 seconds and the nut came off



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