External prv & pressure sensor queries

[3gress]

Going off on a tangent here, my engine is a fresh build and I'm wondering first how to prime the oil galleries, set fuel pressure, mess around with with the I.D. 850 injector dead time vs. Voltage settings on initial start up. I have previous conservative maps based on VE tuning that will help with base line tuning though i usually have enough distractions checking for leaks etc. The engine itself hasnt changed too much apart from a little more head work and swapping to later 10:1 comp block and swapping injectors.
Previosly the engine fired first go once i dialled in the cam and crank sensors.
Deviating further from O.P. what knock sensor would be best to assist adaptronic 440 universal alter timing table to reduce detonation?
Do the OEM mazda type knock sensors require dialling in or are they catered for within the 440 coding already?

It's late and been a long day and I'm yet to finish packing for my daughter's impending excursion so please excuse my fatigue induced concerns.

[madjak]

I pre fill the oil cooler and all the oil lines as much as possible. It makes a bit of a mess but if you are quick with the fittings you can get them fairly full. I then pull the plugs and stop fuel and then crank then engine until I see oil pressure. It doesn't take long if you get the oil cooler primed.

Then I turn fuel back on and reinsert the spark plugs and check oil level. She normally fires straight up but if it takes more than a few cranks I pull the O2 sensor out of the exhaust until it fires. Wet fuel can kill the sensor and its easy enough to remove. Plus you might need a bit of cranking to get the right amount of fuel with those injectors.

When I changed injectors I scaled my fuel table by the ratio of injector size differenve and it was pretty much smack on. If your engine is anything like mine it will be very hard to start and you might need to pull the plugs and clean them. Also my engine tends to backfire when you stop cranking and I've skipped a timing tooth doing that once before. Now I keep cranking the starter until she fires up and only then do I stop the starter. If the starter is engaged the back fires are muffled abd less violent.

[Magpie]

Here is how mine are mounted

Remote oil filter. Has temp/pressure sensors.
IMG_2085[1] by Eipeip, on Flickr

IMG_2086[1] by Eipeip, on Flickr

Sandwich block on the engine
IMG_2087[1] by Eipeip, on Flickr

[StillIC]

Here is how mine are mounted....

Magpie, your temperature sensor is mounted exactly as mine is. But I have readings 10 C to 20 C below my sump temperature, depending on the conditions. By the time the oil reaches the sensor it has already lost this much heat, and I guess the surface area of the hose and the aluminium fittings provide a good amount of oil cooling. And perhaps running the oil through the oil pump at the front of the engine provides some oil cooling too, noting that the engine coolant temperature is lower than the oil temperature.

[Magpie]

I will have to see how it all flows. If the sensor is post oil cooler or pre.

[Lokiel]

Here is how mine are mounted

Remote oil filter. Has temp/pressure sensors.
IMG_2085[1] by Eipeip, on Flickr
:

Andre Kidd (aka Savington, TrackSpeed Engineering) would be beside himself over that oil pressure sensor mount.
Andrew's not a fan of relocation kits to start with, too many new failure points.
Surely the mounting of the oil pressure sensor on the fitting is going to contribute to it loosening due to vibration? (ie.you essentially have a weighted lever hanging on to a rotatable mount that WILL vibrate).

I prefer blocks that allow the sensor to be mounted to them directly and the fittings separate.

(Some would call this paranoia, others would call this sane).

[Magpie]

Never loosened yet

[madjak]

There are lots of ways to do it. AN fittings are ok but they can mist oil out and make a bit of a mess. They are pretty low failure risk and you know quickly if something isn't tight as it will leak. You need to make sure the braided lines aren't rubbing on things but you should spot that prior to complete failure.

I have moved my alternator to the opposite side so for me the stock location for the oil filter is ideal. Easy to get access and no extra connections. I also monitor temp in the sump but that is because I have a bung in there that is easy to access.

My general philosophy is to run everything to a bare minimum. It saves weight, reduces cost and failure risk as well as making everything easier to work on and check.