Speed's boosted NA6

[LiteIsRite]

New knob. This one is taller.
I also greased up both balls on the short shifter. Seems to shift easier whilst sitting in my garage but the true test will be when I go for a spin tomorrow.

Interested to hear how short shifting feels with the greater leverage of that tall knob. Is this the 1lb one you mentioned earlier?

[speed]

Interested to hear how short shifting feels with the greater leverage of that tall knob. Is this the 1lb one you mentioned earlier?

Was supposed to be but it's actually lighter than oem. Will complain on ebay as was not as advertised but also want to see how it feels being lighter and longer.


Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

[speed]

Motor rebuild questions:

Bought a Gates racing timing belt kit last weekend. It's basically a Mania kit with the blue belt minus the cam cover gasket and cam seals.

This will go into the spare engine I'm building, so I'll need to get a full rebuild gasket and seal kit anyways.

I also have Wisco 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods and ARP hardware.

Still not 100% but I'm thinking that I'll sell the pistons and use stockies on the eagle rods.

Will be getting the block cleaned up and honed. Head refreshed and assembled with possibly a skim, port and polish.

Crank will also be machined and bottom end balanced with new correctly sized quality bearings.

Now for some questions.

1. I know the 1.6 heads have poor flow compared to the 1.8
So am thinking the port and polish will help. I figure this a logical step since I'm doing everything else. Will this give me any gains?

2. Will I need to upgrade my stock fuel pump to a Walbro or Deatschwerks?

3. How about the oil pump?

4. Will stock head bolts suffice or do I need ARP studs?

I'm expecting to run 16psi and would really like to see 185kw on the dyno. May need to up the exhaust from 2.5 to 3 inches but again I'm not sure.

Am hoping to be ready to fit this built motor early next year and am currently just trying to accumulate the correct parts and get the necessary machining done in preparation.

Would be grateful for your feedback on the above questions

Thank you.


Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

[Daffy]

For question 2. Will I need to upgrade my stock fuel pump to a Walbro or Deatschwerks?
I found misery in the Deatschwerks mate- swapped it out with the 460 Walbro and it hasn't missed a beat! If your not needing it before I get back from Europe (mid October) I can see if Daz can source one for a good price for you.

[beavis]

I've got Deatschwerks pumps in both my cars, no issues here.

[speed]

I can see if Daz can source one for a good price for you.

Thanks Tony, no rush.

I've got Deatschwerks pumps in both my cars, no issues here.

Thanks Brendan. Just out of curiosity, does your turbo car run stock oil pump?


Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

[bear2230]

You thinking the Boundary pump Steve? They are tempting. I chose not to but it was 50/50 for a while.
https://fab9tuning.com/boundary-enginee ... oil-pumps/

Richard

[speed]

You thinking the Boundary pump Steve?
Richard

Yes. I foolishly passed one up at 300aud.
The big question is, do I need it and are there any other alternatives?

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

[speed]

Interested to hear how short shifting feels with the greater leverage of that tall knob. Is this the 1lb one you mentioned earlier?

The grease has definitely made shifting easier and smoother.
The taller knob gave me the impression of a nicer shift but I've not tested it with the oem knob now that it's greased.
Will have to give that a go next weekend and report back.

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

[beavis]

Thanks Brendan. Just out of curiosity, does your turbo car run stock oil pump?

Yes. You are the second person to bring that up this week.

The general consensus is, if you are running high revs or higher power, the oil pump should be on your to do list.
I didn't do it because I didn't build/rebuild the engine, didn't even remove it from the car. And its not super highly strung. So I was willing to take the risk until either I take the next plunge and build a more capable motor, or I break something and am forced to take said plunge.

[speed]

Yes. You are the second person to bring that up this week.

The general consensus is, if you are running high revs or higher power, the oil pump should be on your to do list.

Pure coincidence. I was asking as I figure if a stock oil pump handles your power and track driving then it should be fine in my street car. Even with some possible occasional amateur track use in future.

I certainly don't run high revs and am not really sure what is considered high power but suspect I'd be under it with <200wkw.

It's been suggested to me to buy new gears for it and see, so that's my plan



Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

[Magpie]

Shim the OEM oil relief vlalve and install a Peterson Fluid Systems Remote Relief Valves

http://www.jegs.com/p/Peterson-Fluid-Systems/Peterson-Fluid-Systems-Remote-Relief-Valves/2677012/10002/-1

http://www.aus-cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=51179&start=30&sid=37d3d3786326717432ce179be28d5280

[speed]

Shim the OEM oil relief vlalve and install a Peterson Fluid Systems Remote Relief Valves

http://www.jegs.com/p/Peterson-Fluid-Systems/Peterson-Fluid-Systems-Remote-Relief-Valves/2677012/10002/-1

http://www.aus-cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=51179&start=30&sid=37d3d3786326717432ce179be28d5280

Thanks for the suggestions Mark.
So adding the shims increases the pressure everywhere and the Peterson relief valve ensures more flow when the revs are up?

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

[Magpie]

No shimming the oil pump stops it from managing oil pressure the external relief valve manages the pressure. The oil pump then just pumps

[StanTheMan]

so why are you rebuilding the B6? I did read it somewhere. Low compression on a cylinder or something?