Everything Frame Rail Brace Related

[Alex 2550]

Hi Everyone,
As i said in the frame rail group buy we need a place for continued discussions so we don't clog up the parts for sale section of the forum.
This is the place following on from the Jass performance frame rail group buy to post everything frame rail brace related.
I think this will be a good place to put up installation tips, questions, reviews, results, issues, driving impressions and of course photos
Hopefully this can be a place for future reference for others looking into the same modification.
The frame rail braces that were purchased in the group buy are described on Jass performance's website as follows, i will say as a side note that Vlad of Jass performance was nothing short of amazing to deal with.

Frame Rails Reinforced


Stainless steel frame rail re-enforcements, Mazda MX5 mk1 & mk2.

Stiffens the convertible body structure of the MX5

Additional structural strength over the lightweight frame rails with more than 16% (FEA stress calculation result, practically noticeable difference)
Rustproof under floor protection against scratches and stone hits, especially on lowered cars
Strong points for lifting the car - no more tire fitters denting in the underside with their jacks
Stainless steel replacement fuel line brackets are included
Full stainless steel mirror polished design
Complete with fitting instructions and stainless steel fitting kit

seen here: http://www.jassperformance.com/shop/Fra ... Reinforced

the best installation video can be seen here by Miata mods and worth watching for anyone attempting this mod, as i have said before you don't want to mess this up and have extra "speed holes": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vexsCG5 ... e=youtu.be

and a installation manual can be found here: http://www.jassperformance.com/shop/ind ... blog&id=31

If you already have frame rail braces fitted please feel free to comment on your experiences and if there is anything that can be of benefit too others please throw it up.
all the best everyone and let the info begin

[jko]

none of the links work

[Alex 2550]

Thanks Jko, Sorry guys.
Try these.
Frame rails http://www.jassperformance.com/shop/Frame_Rails_Reinforced

Installation video


Installation manual
http://www.jassperformance.com/manuals/Jass%20Performance%20Frame%20Rails%20Installation%20Manual.pdf

[Gladiator]

Awesome! Cheers Alex.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[LiteIsRite]

Good idea on the new thread, Alex.

I finished getting mine in a short time ago. I took my time and did it over two days. Before and after shots, and initial impressions, are in my '3 shiny new mods' thread (http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=75340&start=15). I'll add some other detail here, along with my tips for you group buyers.

Firstly, I was happy to not find any serious issues under the carpet - an area of my car that's been uncharted territory up to now. There was only a little surface rust around the lower part of the ECU cover, seat bolts, and seatbelt lower bolts that needed treatment. The only other unexpected find was that two of the blind grommets in the floor pan were missing.

The install process went pretty much to plan, hampered in my case by a thick underbody coating which made clearances particularly tight. My rails are in pretty good condition but, due to the coating, the only way I could get the braces to fit was to press them on with the floor jack - and then lever them off for the rust prevention treatment of the bolt holes, and then press them on again.

Here's two photos to show the floor pan after fitment -





I have two tips for you:

1. the kit gives you 4 x short (16mm) M8 stainless bolts to mount with the head underneath the car to clear the hardlines along the inside of the drivers side rail. Make life easier for yourself and get an additional two so that you can have clearance at all six positions on the brace. This issue caused me more trouble than anything else.

2. make sure you have a decent 8mm drill bit. I had a couple of cheap ones - you know, the ones with the golden surface finish - and gave up on them after the first hole. I have an impact driver so I went out and bought a bit designed for that (didn't previously know there was such a thing) and the combo worked great.

Say hello to my little friend

[KevGoat]

Thanks for the tip on the extra bolts. When I looked at the installation video again I could see why.

With my (lack of ) drilling prowess I've already planned a few extra drill bits and at same time will buy myself a cordless drill to make this installation easier too

[Alex 2550]

thanks LiteIsRite,
those little tips can make all the difference, im glad its also made a positive difference to how your car feels.

Hey Kev if you can justify the cost i have one of these https://www.bunnings.com.au/makita-18v- ... l_p6240258
i have had it for a couple years and its brilliant, i probably use it every week.
my brother in law is a builder and has had his for about 4 years using it every day, he had the cheaper LXT before it and it lasted a couple years so still great but you can feel the quality and weight difference in the combo model that has hammer and a front metal body, i look at it as the last cordless drill i buy. when i bought mine they were $499 but find it online cheap then get bunnings to beat it by 10%.
i have built 2 sets of horse stables made from iron bark with it plus countless other jobs and i just leave the charger on and rotate the batteries and they are still like new.

[KevGoat]

Thanks for the recommendation Alex. Bunnings are currently $429 with 3 batteries. I wasn't planning on spending anywhere near that much as I really don't use drills very much (disastrous handyman ) but sometimes it's worth paying more initially and saving more long term. I'll see what there is when I have a look. Probably just end up with a "cheapie" for the odd time I need it.

[Mr Morlock]

if you have a power point why waste money on a battery drill. I have 2 electric drills one of them back to early 70's. The idea behind batteries is convenience on building sites or situations where there is no 240Volt. I have a battery powered drill and most of the time its flat when I come to use it-the blasted thing died as far as the charger was concerned so that put paid to any thing remotely like a smart buy. I bought a new charger ( for a drill ( Bosch green) that had done almost no work. For tradesman different story to a diy who is too busy drinking lattes. PS tradesman charge the customer for the equipment and the diy amateur looks in the mirror.

[kiezon]

Forgot to ask this earlier, but would anyone happen to know how this affects roadworthy and future potential engineering?

[Alex 2550]

Forgot to ask this earlier, but would anyone happen to know how this affects roadworthy and future potential engineering?

i also wondered this and spoke to a few people with them and no issues one saying that he had to get a NSW blue slip and the inspector said "it was a good idea to protect the rails" he perhaps thought thats all they did. if you paint them black and by the time they get covered in filth they will probably look like they came from Mazda if you are worried. engineering i think would be no issue as you are stregthening the floor pan, when i have dropped big block V8s into landcruisers i have been asked to gusset some of the front chassis and box it in due to the increased twist and power, i think engineers just like braces .

[Alex 2550]

if you have a power point why waste money on a battery drill. I have 2 electric drills one of them back to early 70's. The idea behind batteries is convenience on building sites or situations where there is no 240Volt. I have a battery powered drill and most of the time its flat when I come to use it-the blasted thing died as far as the charger was concerned so that put paid to any thing remotely like a smart buy. I bought a new charger ( for a drill ( Bosch green) that had done almost no work. For tradesman different story to a diy who is too busy drinking lattes. PS tradesman charge the customer for the equipment and the diy amateur looks in the mirror.

understand your reasoning completely, i have three 240V drills but i still grab the cordless 9 times out of 10 when near the house, if working round the farm i have a generator and an inverter in the vehicle that can run a drill but i take the cordless for convenience.
if i had a problem like yours i would totally be in the 240V camp, my batteries are on charge constantly and rotated so perhaps why i have never had a problem or my brother in law, the makita charger is fairly substantial smart charger about 300mmx200mm docking station type.

[Dehamsta]

I have installed mine a while ago now and the problem i have is that the nuts/bolt can be felt underneath my feet.
Not a big deal but it is something to be mindful of and you might find a way to fix it during the install while the seats and carpet are off.

[Alex 2550]

I have installed mine a while ago now and the problem i have is that the nuts/bolt can be felt underneath my feet.
Not a big deal but it is something to be mindful of and you might find a way to fix it during the install while the seats and carpet are off.

thanks for the tip mate, i wonder if a piece of tape over them would lesson the feel through the carpet?.

[KevGoat]

I have installed mine a while ago now and the problem i have is that the nuts/bolt can be felt underneath my feet.

I'd been wondering about that, especially the upside down ones that might protrude a bit more than just the bolt heads. Not sure if NB's have any underfelt but I recall my NA6 had none when I took the carpet out. Might just be a matter of adding a little.

Tracking shows mine in Melbourne this morning...yay!