Robbo's Clubbie Racer

GR124 · Postby **GR124** » Thu Jun 08, 2017 6:00 pm

Thanks MB and Clubman. This is the info I'm looking for. The car was Australian supplied. I'm getting closer to fabricating the headers which I need to research some more, however I was thinking after the collector would be a 2.5 inch system. MB you suggested a 2.25. Do you think the 2.5 would be too big for a stock engine with a relatively short exhaust system?

rascal · Postby **rascal** » Thu Jun 08, 2017 6:14 pm

GR124 wrote:Do you think the 2.5 would be too big for a stock engine with a relatively short exhaust system?

Yes...
You'll lose mid range and not have the breathing capability to take any advantage in the top end.
Stick with a 2.25"

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Thu Jun 08, 2017 7:08 pm

Long 4-2-1 headers as well, rascal, rather than 4-1? I'm thinking better spread through better scavenging throughout the range.

GR124 · Postby **GR124** » Thu Jun 08, 2017 11:06 pm

yes MB I've been tossing up whether to build a 4-1 or a 4-2-1 system. For my stock engine the 4-2-1 header with 2.25 inch hot dog style muffler and pipe may be the go.
I'm still trolling and reading the WWW for my education before fabrication.

93_Clubman · Postby **93_Clubman** » Fri Jun 09, 2017 11:29 am

Yeah, 4-1 suits top end - go with the NB8A OEM headers if they'll fit the build. The ADM ones were fairly good, however the USDM ones were rubbish. There are/were some comparison pics on here somewhere.

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Fri Jun 09, 2017 12:56 pm

... and the NB8B headers have a reputation of being better than the NB8A ones. In fact there's very little performance gap between the NB8B headers and most of the aftermarket extractors. Likewise the NB8B inlet manifold bolts straight on and flows better than the NB8A one. It does not have the complication of the VICS system.

GR124 · Postby **GR124** » Fri Jun 09, 2017 1:21 pm

MB, I appreciate that info however the issue for me is I have to fab up a set due to the clubbie chassis. The headers will exit straight out and over the top of the top chassis rail a bit like this

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Fri Jun 09, 2017 1:34 pm

Fair enough.

GR124 · Postby **GR124** » Tue Aug 29, 2017 12:02 am

Ok, so we lost photo Phucket

. So ive refreshed with a couple of up to date photos

Postby **beavis** » Tue Aug 29, 2017 12:04 am

That looks superb.
What differential are you running?

GR124 · Postby **GR124** » Tue Aug 29, 2017 12:11 am

Firstly sorry for the gaps between photos, its the way I edited them.
I have the engine that I removed from a 2000 model MX5 and a mostly full loom i removed as well. My plan is to start the engine on the floor and remove the bits of the wiring loom that is not required for a clubman race car. I'm not the most clued up when it comes to knowing all the connections on a modern engine.
SO LET'S PLAY A GAME
name the parts that I don't require for example "I don't need connection B because its the ejector seat solenoid" This will help me to get a better understanding, Thanks

Postby **beavis** » Tue Aug 29, 2017 1:33 am

Basically all of those are not required, except for J which is your idle control valve.

K,D,G are coolant lines, not explicitly required as long as you block them off.

Are H and I your fuel lines? Or hoses to the charcoal canister? If they are the latter, then just block off the barbs where they exist the intake manifold.

GR124 · Postby **GR124** » Tue Aug 29, 2017 9:16 am

Hi Beavis,
Yes I'm sure you are correct that H & I are the Charcoal canister. so I'll block them. I have identified the fuel lines.

So the idea is that I use the existing loom with the unwanted wires/bits removed and use the standard ECU.
I'm hoping that simply not plugging in the unwanted stuff won't change the running of the engine.
Thanks Beaivs

93_Clubman · Postby **93_Clubman** » Tue Aug 29, 2017 11:22 am

GR124 wrote:So the idea is that I use the existing loom with the unwanted wires/bits removed and use the standard ECU.
I'm hoping that simply not plugging in the unwanted stuff won't change the running of the engine.

Recall that Toyota 4AGE 20V ST 8bit ECU only requires a handful of connectors to operate, but think that later 16bit ECUs, like the NB8A, rely on additional signals to the ECU. That said, it's certainly worth trying. If no one here chimes in it might be worth PMing Jim on Ozclubbies (JNR Clubman, IIRC), Vic who's built 5 or 6 clubmans, the last one of which ran an NB8A motor.

GR124 · Postby **GR124** » Tue Aug 29, 2017 11:33 am

93_Clubman wrote:
GR124 wrote:So the idea is that I use the existing loom with the unwanted wires/bits removed and use the standard ECU.
I'm hoping that simply not plugging in the unwanted stuff won't change the running of the engine.

Recall that Toyota 4AGE 20V ST 8bit ECU only requires a handful of connectors to operate, but think that later 16bit ECUs, like the NB8A, rely on additional signals to the ECU. That said, it's certainly worth trying. If no one here chimes in it might be worth PMing Jim on Ozclubbies (JNR Clubman, IIRC), Vic who's built 5 or 6 clubmans, the last one of which ran an NB8A motor.

My idea was to run the motor on the floor hook all the connectors and pull the ones I don't need and see if it effects the running. Thanks for the heads up on the contact at Ozclubbies.