mrpham's summer build

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Tue Mar 28, 2017 8:27 am

speed wrote:Clutch master and brake lines are in the way. Certainly wouldn't get a 4 inch pipe in there easy.

Booster delete

mrpham wrote:My plan is to use a half sized radiator and use the extra space to do a ducted cold air intake into the airbox.

Very similar to Madjak has done. My plan is to put a hole in the front bumper and bring air in from there.

Again must compliment the very neat engine bay!

3gress · Postby **3gress** » Tue Mar 28, 2017 1:03 pm

Very similar to Madjak has done. My plan is to put a hole in the front bumper and bring air in from there.[/quote]

'Panda 2' had some decent ducting fabbed up in the hands of the new owner, inspired by the same car quoted previously. Worth studying if not happened across already.
Apologies on detracting from the accomplishments of late pham, sometimes it is hard to convey the full idea in a simple sentence and it comes off sounding dim witted and without purpose.

Postby **mrpham** » Tue Jun 06, 2017 1:15 am

Intake Progress & ECU Brackets - http://omgpham.com/intake-progress-ecu-brackets

Quick update on my custom intake setup. Below was the first iteration of the setup, custom airbox with 105mm long velocity stacks. Since than, I've decided to change my brake booster to a remote booster setup

This basically means I'll be able to fit in 135mm long velocity stacks!

The compact Wilwood brake master cylinder, the kit contains the standard reservoir plus a remote reservoir. I quickly modelled up a adapter plate and printed it out for prototyping.

The redesigned velocity stack at*135mm length. A couple photos showing the printing process as well as comparisons to the 75mm and 105mm velocity stacks.

Mounted up for some length comparisons.

And this is what it all sounds like

Going to 135mm length stacks meant that I[/youtu] needed more height on the airbox, my solution is to keep the spacer design but increase its thickness. It currently looks a little clumsy but I do have reasons for going this route. Below are photos of the first part of the spacer, roughly*checked the clearance and then printed the rest of the assembly. I designed the parts wit dove-tail joints so that the parts slide together for easy assembly.

More photos of the spacer showing the size and the internal clearance.

And the reason for using this spacer design rather than designing a taller air box is so that I could easily swap from airbox to Pipercross filter. That might be a stupid idea though...

I've been meaning to do this part for awhile now, so here it is! It's my bracket design to mount the Megasquirt ECU

Used Fusion 360 to model these and below is the first version.

Fitment to the ECU was perfect first go, same thing when mounted to the car. I also experimented with these M4 brass threaded inserts, very happy with them so far.

Tested a few different changes to help with print-ability and install/removal of ECU. So so happy with the final design

And this is how it all looks mounted to the dash frame.

I also picked up a Nakamae side pocket and Beatrush dead pedal from Car Make Corns when I was in Japan!

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Tue Jun 06, 2017 7:04 am

Always look forward to your posts!

Be interested to see how the 135mm stacks go, suspect you will have very nice bottom/mid range response.

lucmor444 · Postby **lucmor444** » Tue Jun 06, 2017 7:13 am

Great update. Who'd you get the Wilwood kit from?

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Tue Jun 06, 2017 7:36 am

A quick google (not sure of the bore size purchased by mrpham)
http://www.ianboettcherraceparts.com.au/shop/Wilwood-260-10371-5-8-Compact-Remote-Combination-Master-Cylinder.html

Mrpham more than likely printed the adapter plate, however a kit can be purchased. Other people on the forum have made up custom plates when deleting the brake booster (Madjak & Zossy).
https://fab9tuning.com/fab9tuning-brake-booster-delete-tuck-kit/

I'm interested in the remote booster as I thought about this many times before doing a booster delete.

Are you moving the clutch reservoir as well?

BE WARNED (sorry for hijacking your thread Mrpham)
Mrpham is including a remote booster hence pedal effort should not change much. If you delete the booster and NOT change the pivot point of the brakes, pedal feel will be SIGNIFICANTLY changed.

lucmor444 · Postby **lucmor444** » Tue Jun 06, 2017 9:02 pm

Thx Magpie - I will consider this further as I am interested in how I free up space for an airbox (rather than my current socks) for my ITBs. Now back to normal programming on mrpham's thread.

Postby **mrpham** » Thu Dec 07, 2017 8:01 pm

More Printing Projects - http://omgpham.com/more-printing-projects

So continuing on from my last post, I decided to make some slight changes to my ECU mount. Stronger and easier to print now.

(Printed in ABS plastic.)

A common cause for ignition timing related misfires when using an aftermarket ECU is the cam sensor connector, a simple solution is to pot the sensor. I printed out a little case to neaten up the potting. I initially used a damaged factory sensor, but ended up using an alternative sensor from a Hyundai and had to redesign the case.

(Printed in ABS plastic.)

Testing out a different velocity stack design. Larger diameter bell-mouth and they sort of overlap on each other. These were printed in eSun carbon-fibre reinforced nylon plastic. It is fuel/oil safe and heat resistant, properties are very similar to OEM engine bay plastics (glass fibre reinforced nylon).

My 3D printed radio delete with magnetic mounting and wireless charging for my Nexus 7 tablet! It will be running Shadow Dash for all my Megasquirt gauges*and logging.

(Printed in ABS plastic.)

This next project was a huge success

I've always hated passing heavy gauge starter/alternator wiring through the firewall hole using a rubber grommet. So I modelled up the parts below to make a terminal bulkhead panel. Design goals were:

Easy to access
Removable cover for protection
Plenty of isolation to the body

(Printed in ABS plastic.)

Used my hydraulic lug crimper to make up the cables, the terminals in the cabin need some rubber boots too.

http://omgpham.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/20171127_161409.jpg

Postby **mrpham** » Tue Mar 20, 2018 4:36 pm

Tilton Pedal Box - http://omgpham.com/tilton-pedal-box

So I purchased a Tilton pedal box and started installing it, this is the story so far...

Very impressed with the build quality, I just hate all the imperial sized hardware! The idea is that the pedal box relocates all the master cylinders under my feet and no brake booster. I have a lot more room for my intake now. Added benefit is also the improved braking feel, pedal effort will be increased too.

Initial plan was to mount the pedal box without any floor modifications, but after a bit of planning I realised there wasn't a whole lot of work involved so I CAD'd everything up for laser cutting. This little bit of extra work now places the pedal box further forward and improves the driving position a lot.

After removing the inner skin, there was a huge cavity that allows for a boxed up section to be made for the pedal box. Super handy! After it was welded in, I wire-brushed everything before putting a layer of primer and paint. Very happy with the outcome, and I also took the opportunity to clean up the under dash wiring.

Quickly installed the dash and steering column to test the driving position!

I drew up some mounting plates for the brake/clutch fluid reservoir, this is welded into the dash bar. Allows quick removal to top up, braided lines to the master cylinders.

Also gave all the brake fittings a clean using an ultrasonic cleaner.

Started making up some of the lines from master cylinder output to the bulk-head connectors. You can also see the pressure switch used for activating the brake lights.

This heel plate protects all the parts and braided line, modelled in Fusion 360 and then laser cut.

New clutch line.

All my internal lines are stainless braided PTFE hose, and all external connections are made using hard-line. Picked up some quality flaring tools for 45deg double flare and 37deg AN flare as well as this awesome tube straightener.

My awesome SQIIRLMODS luggage rack, will be handing when I get a chance to do some more road trips down to Sydney.

I'm also in love with this IRP Germany short shifter!

That's all for now, and I don't think I'll be posting any further updates for awhile. A lot going on with work right now, so any spare time is scarce these days