Jordan's NA6 [WA]

[jordan.k]

The fan on the hot side is your thermo fan. Just thought I read that you're getting rid of it.

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

Haha not quite, I may have worded it badly. I removed the A/C fan completely at this stage ( smaller one) and moved the main thermo fan over a bit just using existing mounts.

Solely to add clearance for the intercooler piping, managed to fit 2.5" both sides, if I didn't have the aluminium pipe already I would have probably opted for 2" hotside as that's the size of my compressor outlet adapter and ease of fitment.

Cheers for the concern regardless

P.S have been watching your COPS progress and it looks like a bit of a mess around, might just keep stock ignition myself, hope you figure it out!

[speed]

Ah, ok cool.

Minutes ago I just realised why my autotune is not working. The o2 wire at the back of the ecu has broken off!

Tunes out that the car needs to be retuned for cops more than I thought. Think I've made something straight forward look difficult. Oops!

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[jordan.k]

Made some progress on the weekend, thought i'd practice drill and tapping on the aluminium pipe in prep for the sump eventually.


Used this as my IACV port, tapped just after my silicone 90 off the TB, then clamped down the stock hose onto it, didn't have appropriate hose clamps on hand so used larger ones and it looks terrible! Will get some smaller ones asap


Sort of rigged up my pcv to go and re use this nipple that was already on my piping


Pretty ghetto and I don't plan on running it like this long as I will probably use that nipple for wastegate reference and a catchcan setup for the pcv's for when im turbocharged.

Used some dynasteel stuff from supercheap, was pretty skpetical but I couldn't wed nor wanted to pay someone to weld it so for $8 or so it's solid as a rock!


And finally put the bumper back on for the first time in about 2 weeks

Can see my pod hanging out there, hood barely closes there so have ordered another silicone bend and will use some leftover 2.5" straight to have it sitting near factory position!

Oh yea also went to check my base timing before I started messing with stuff as I thought I heard a bit of a weird rattle, assuming it was pinging... untrained ear I thought it was an exhaust rattle of some sort

And my supsicions were right, timing was out by a fair few degrees. Dialled it back using timing lock on the adaptronic, manually adjusting the CAS and a timing light and it's good to go

[jordan.k]

Didn't get up to much on the weekend, had a squealing from my rear right brake pad for a while, tried to adjust the caliper but it was siezed. Thought it would be a good opportunity to fix my weak e-brake as well.

Replaced both rear calipers with used na6 ones and upgraded the fronts to na8 and bled all the brakes with new fluid. First time I've done this but it's a pretty straight forward job, just took a while by myself and needed a helper to bleed the brakes!



Still having issues with the e-brake as when I adjust the caliper to the point where the handbrake locks it, they are still pressed hard against the rotor when it it let down. Might try adjusting the cable as well as the piston later.

Also got a new grinding noise on full lock at low speed and couldn't narrow down the noise! Will see how it plays out.. I did re-use na6 lines on the na8 calipers but thought that wouldn't make a difference

Did some general tidying up
Few amayama parts arrived including this gtx pcv valve about $15 but I may have snagged one of the last ones there


Put hose clamps to replace the spring clamps because why not


Added a grommet around where my map line enters the cabin to make it look like I know what I'm doing



Added a 45 degree coupler and a bit of stainless to finish off my piping, needs a bracket but it's only temporary, so might leave it as is.



Expecting my clutch kit to arrive next week, and will be ready to drop the gearbox and replace a bunch of seals at the same time hopefully!

[jordan.k]

I ended up taking the gearbox out myself with the help of a jack... Not the easiest atsk but it worked. Took me roughly 5 hours due to the starter bolts being hard to reach.

Machined my flywheel for piece of mind although I don't think it needed it as it looked like it had been done recently and my clutch was hardly worn. For $55 I suppose it's not really a loss.


Put the pilot bearing in flush and bolted up the flywheel after putting in a new rear main seal.
Torqued to about 75ft lbs. was pretty hard to do under the car, honestly I think pulling the engine would be a better option!


This is the first time I've attempted a clutch job so I took my time and watched a few guides.

Put clutch disc in with alignment tool

It says clutch pro on it although I ordered an xtreme kit. Will see how it holds up, I got the thumbs up from this clutch from a few people for my power goals so it should be fine.

And last put the pretty purple hd pressure plate on which was a tight fit around the dowels but bolted up snug at 20ft lbs.

That's where I left off, I think I might need a second person to help me put the gearbox back in and pray for no leaks. I'm pretty sure most of the oil leakage was from the flywheel bolts so I put some thread locker on them to help prevent that and also added RTV to the rear main seal just in case.

Then I get to bed the clutch in and put the fun stuff on

[Okibi]

Been there done that, sucks without a hoist. Top work.

[slomo]

Buy 2 bolts of the same thread as the tranny bell housing bolts, about 100-150mm long, cut of the hex head off and cut a large screw driver slot in cut end
Screw in on bottom 2 tranny mounting threads.
These will now be both guides and additional support for tranny.
Once all lined up and fitted with other bolts, unscrew guide bolts.

[jordan.k]

Been there done that, sucks without a hoist. Top work.

Thanks dave, it really isn't too fun on the floor but I've learnt alot

Buy 2 bolts of the same thread as the tranny bell housing bolts, about 100-150mm long, cut of the hex head off and cut a large screw driver slot in cut end
Screw in on bottom 2 tranny mounting threads.
These will now be both guides and additional support for tranny.
Once all lined up and fitted with other bolts, unscrew guide bolts.

Thanks for that slomo, will definitely do that if I find myself doing a clutch again (hopefully not!)


I managed to muscle in the transmission after work tonight using a spare tyre jack and some wood to tilt the engine forward a little bit, Used the stock 2 bottom ones as guide and chucked a few bolts back in the PPF and tranny to make sure it doesn't fall out overnight! Almost done and drive able just need to bolt everything up when I have some spare time .

Also does anyone know what those 2 sensors on the transmission are, one has blue wires going to it and one has red.

[RedMX]

Also does anyone know what those 2 sensors on the transmission are, one has blue wires going to it and one has red.

One will be a Neutral Switch & one will be the Reverse Switch.
From memory the (blue) should be the Neutral Switch located on the selector shaft & the one with the (Red) wires is the Reverse should be mounted on the side of the gearbox.*

50/50 that I may have got that wrong way around with locations/colours (but that's what they are)

good job with the car so far Jordan, a gearbox job done on the floor is a pain hehehe

[jordan.k]

the one with the (Red) wires is the Reverse should be mounted on the side of the gearbox.*

5

That cursed red switch gave me a minor heart attack. I went for its maiden voyage after the new clutch and BAM stuck in reverse... well really tight. Google symptoms thinking I've botched something and I read up about a spacer on the reverse light switch. Low and behold


I find this piece of sh*t on the floor. Will have to put that back in first thing in the morning and hope I haven't destroyed my reverse switch, only went into reverse gear 2-3 times so we will see.

Oh boy was I in for a surprise, Top two bellhousing bolts just wouldn't catch a thread, one went pretty deep then got super tight, must of been a bit cross thread from previous owner (or me upon removal, hopefully not ). so will sort that out with a slightly shorter bolt and the other side I will try and get a tap in to thread it or clean out the threads. Also the 20 year old gasket on the downpipe crumbled to bits and my cat has no gasket! So need some copper rtv to fix that because it's a pretty loud leak.

+1 for not doing this job at home on jack stands, I was warned

[jordan.k]

Put everything back together, fixed the reverse switch by re-adding the washer.
Fixed my exhaust leak with copper rtv and no gaskets, surprised this is holding up.
Added a 10th bolt slightly shorter than oem to hold my transmission to the engine, still missing one under the cas cover as I do not want to force the bolt in. But it is very stable already and feels like OEM.

I also discovered my grinding noise was the brake shields rubbing on the rotors once they got hot enough (maybe some thermal expansion) So I bent them back with a screwdriver (ghetto I know) to clear the rotor and all is good now!

The only thing that needs attention is a small coolant leak on the IACV coolant feed line that I tried to patch but it drips every now as then, easy fix I suppose
Felt good taking the car out of the garage under its own power after being on jack stands for a week.



Here is how it sits today.


Next up is to cut out the seized and partly rounded chra bolt on my t25 so I can finally clock it, making me regret buying a used turbo with how much of a headache this thing is. Oh well should be all worth it soon

[jordan.k]

Got my exhaust studs in the mail from partsouq.

They're oem nissan ones which cost me around $60 landed for 4 manifold ones, 5 dump pipe ones and 2 dump pipe bolts in case i decide to use bolts as well. Think they're inconel, maybe, maybe not.



Threaded the studs in by hand, if they got caught up I cleaned the thread with a tap.

Double nutted them in pretty tight, didn't use loctite or resbond or anything. We will see if this bites me later and my turbo falls off XD. Only a street car so I doubt it.



Was also battling a funny noise from the rear recently, turns out all my driveshaft to diff bolts had loosened and almost fallen off. This is because they were m8 bolts from na6. I will have to get some m10 ones so it located the tailshaft to the diff better, don't really want my tailshaft to fall out. Suprised it lasted 300kms before being noticeable.

Got some funny business from my tachometer the other day. Appears to be a one off

It showed I was idling at 250 rpm but the engine note was the same and checked out around 1000 via laptop.
Hasn't happened since but Im thinking it might have something to do with some engine grounds.

Also properly wired my fuel pump in instead of using the jumper so that it can be controlled by the ecu.
Was a bit weird as the 'red' wire at the AFM connector had a black insulation wire around it and I had to cut that off first. Other than that it was simple and works well.

Ordered my line kit from mambatek on ebay (will see how they go)


Once this is here sometime next week im ready to bolt everything on in a day or two and leave the tuner to handle putting in my injectors and tuning the car to not blow up when it hits boost. As I only feel comfortable tuning it while it's mainly stock.

The only thing I haven't done is wiring for sequential injection now. I have two spare pins that I can use so I should probably do it, but don't want to mess anything up because everything is going so well now

Getting very close. As long as I don't drill through my oil pick up I should be set.

[jordan.k]

Turbo clocked, and pieced back together will all appropriate fittings.





Mocked up with the dump pipe

Should get cracking on this tomorrow night and be 'done' by the weekend.

And yes the wastegate is not mounted
Probably just going to do something like this

[jordan.k]

Got a fair chunk of this job done in the last 24hrs

Started off tapping the sump. Learned that this was a bit of a fiddly job on a RHD with power steering and AC. But I am extremely happy with how clean I tapped it and the positioning of it.

Here is a picture before I JB welded it in place.

Next I attached oil feed. (well documented and straight forward) Attached oil drain hose to the brass barb I tapped in the previous pic.

I also opted for water cooling for the turbo because this step is too easy to pass up. You basically add your turbo into the loop of your cooling system near the thermostat. I used 6an lines with 3/8th barbs and squeezed on 5/16th hose onto the thermostat housing nipple and the barbs and clamps them down good to ensure no leakage.

Bolted the turbo and manifold as one and decided to use no metal gasket but get the surfaces as flat and clean as possible and a small layer of copper RTV to help seal any imperfections.



Had to bend out the heater pipe but I think this has caused a leak at the o ring near the water mixing manifold thing. I slopped some grey RTV on it for now. Hopefully it holds....

The biggest f*ck around I have right now is the power steering pump inlet thats practically resting on my compressor inlet.


It looks like I can rotate the 90 degree inlet the other way but it will hit the belt, I may try bend it to fit and if it snaps I will have to pay someone to weld it back together or make a new piece to fit.


Didn't really forsee this issue but hopefully It can be solved relatively painlessly


This is how it currently sits and is *most* of the way done.

Left to do:
Add oil and coolant
Sort out intake filter situation
Re-calibrate lc1 wideband
Check for leaks
Get a catback made local and then get it dyno tuned!

[jordan.k]

Made a wastegate mounting solution as I stole the idea from above

Works great even with one bolt, tested with an air compressor hooked up to the wastegate vacuum line. Lost the oem e-clip in my engine bay but replaced it with a generic one that I got from bunnings.

Started the car for the first time to check for leaks and any issues. Everything went great (just really loud as the exhaust is just a dump pipe) no leaks to be seen and it's all ready to drive. Just waiting on a manual steering rack from over east as I removed my complete PS setup and didn't de-power the rack In case I absolutely can't live with no PS and want to put it back in at a later date. I will most likely be removing my whole AC system too.


Picked up a half cage for not cheap but I felt like I needed one with the added power... just in case. It is a little scratched up on the sides but I will use some padding around most of the contact areas so I don't go giving myself a concussion.

Need some torx bits to take off my side strikers to install it. Shame about all the public holidays, don't think the car will be back on the road until next Wednesday or Thursday !