StanTheMan wrote:currently its still getting very lean when off he throttle decelerating. seeing numbers like 20:1 occasionally for very short periods. It seems to strat bubbling or over run from 17: or over
If you're taking throttle out and causing the engine to decelerate, it will go lean, but that's OK, as long as you're not going lean when you're accelerating! Fully taking your foot off the loud pedal should peg you at 20:1 or whatever "full lean" is on your WB02 until the engine gets to just above idle, then it will start putting fuel in to make it idle - but the MS will be cutting fuel on deceleration, this is normal so don't try and tune it out, you'll go insane ;)
StanTheMan wrote:While cruising & accelerating in traffic I'm getting high 11's not low 10 anymore. this is all below 5000 rpm.
for best emissions you'll want to be hitting 14.7 in steady-state cursing, leaner than that for economy, these will be in the 30 - 80kPa rows of the tables. You want the WOT/100kPa rows to be up around 11 to 13, no richer than 11 though, you start getting into too much fuel and it'll upset the power output. I think I'm targeting 12:1 for WOT, and 15.5 for the highway cruise, and 14.7 everywhere else.
StanTheMan wrote:I'm curious about how far I can take the timing. Ive not noticed any pinging. But I'm going deaf. hearing loss is not a good thing when tuning.
My understanding is on a stock B6 engine you'll generally stop making power before you run into knock, but the only real way to test that is with a dyno. You can also have mild knock that's almost inaudible while you're in the car, that'll still do bad things, if you can hear it knocking while you're driving the car, you're definitely about to break something haha
StanTheMan wrote:all in all. the new ones seem a lot less agressive from what I recall. Could also be my tuning the timing on the cams.
If you log a WOT pull, does the kPa / manifold pressure decrease as the RPMs increase? It could simply be the na6 flapper AFM being too much of a restriction on the intake, causing all the extra lift to go to waste. I just pulled off my you-beaut DIY (read: dodgy as f*ck) cold air intake for this exact reason. I'm now at the point of having to re-do all of my VE tables because the engine is getting better airflow in just about every situation.
This is how I have my MLV laid out.
The top graph is Vehicle Speed/RPM/MAP/TPS,
The second one is AFR, AFR target, AFR error, and Duty Cycle.
The third one is MAT + CLT + Baro. The other item and everything in graph 4 change depending on how I feel, or what I'm looking at.
This also shows the drop in kPa as RPM increases - barometer is at 96.9kPa, but the intake pressure is only 92.5 @ 6k, So I was literally leaving 3-4% of my air on the table.
StanTheMan wrote:I do still have a temperature sensor which I can install right on the CAI.... I just have to calibrate the sensor itself. I have no idea what car it is from.
If the IAT sensor is a GM one, there are calibration figures on the DIY Autotune website. You also want it closer to the throttle body, otherwise you'll be lying to the MS about the actual temp of the air once it's been through all of the intake tubing and warmed up a bit.
biggest I can find is 91.2
