SMSP spongy brake pedal

cookies · Postby **cookies** » Mon Feb 06, 2017 5:52 pm

Thanks all for the replies. I went in to mania who were extremely helpful. Bled the fluid for me on the spot. Feels much better now so im thinking i somehow got air in the lines.

They reckon the pads should be fine for what I'm doing. Currently about 6 months, 1 track day and 1000kms old so plenty of life left. I might try carbotechs for my next pad, I'll do rotors then too.

When I bedded in the pads I was extremely careful to lightly sand and clean off the rotors to remove the old transfer layer. Got a nice blue tinge on the rotor which is apparently what you want when doing it with the HP+.

Mania had not heard of cycling the abs pump when bleeding so that wasn't done. Is the theory to make sure the old fluid inside the pump is replaced?

I'm heading to Wakefield in march so we will find out then if bleeding has worked!

Thanks again

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Mon Feb 06, 2017 7:16 pm

I used Hawk HP+ pads for years on a stock or almost stock NA8. They were adequate for that on the track but found wanting when I took the car up to only 85rwkw. You need at least a couple of levels higher in perfprmance to match the sort of power you're making. XP12, Hawk blues, etc are more your spec.

pepejesus · Postby **pepejesus** » Mon Feb 06, 2017 7:47 pm

cookies wrote:Mania had not heard of cycling the abs pump when bleeding so that wasn't done. Is the theory to make sure the old fluid inside the pump is replaced?

I can't say I understand how the ABS system works so I don't know exactly - but I believe that is the theory, yes.

When I did mine, even though I had bled the system twice, I had some pretty gross looking black fluid and some air bubbles come out after doing a post-ABS-pump-cycle bleed.

cookies · Postby **cookies** » Mon Feb 06, 2017 8:50 pm

manga_blue wrote:I used Hawk HP+ pads for years on a stock or almost stock NA8. They were adequate for that on the track but found wanting when I took the car up to only 85rwkw. You need at least a couple of levels higher in perfprmance to match the sort of power you're making. XP12, Hawk blues, etc are more your spec.

I think I'll step it up next time, g-loc r10 looks interesting. I'm still trying to keep the street driveability. I don't mind dust, but squealing brakes annoy me!

Out of interest, what rotors are people running and where are they sourced? Seems like in the states you can get standard rotors super cheap and then replace them every time you do pads but I haven't seen prices in Australia anywhere near as good.

rascal · Postby **rascal** » Tue Feb 07, 2017 8:57 am

pepejesus wrote:
cookies wrote:Mania had not heard of cycling the abs pump when bleeding so that wasn't done. Is the theory to make sure the old fluid inside the pump is replaced?

I can't say I understand how the ABS system works so I don't know exactly - but I believe that is the theory, yes.

When I did mine, even though I had bled the system twice, I had some pretty gross looking black fluid and some air bubbles come out after doing a post-ABS-pump-cycle bleed.

Similar story here..

I fitted NB8B brakes/ABS to my NB8A so started with completely empty lines.

I used a power bleeder to bleed the fluid through, and didn't have a good pedal after bleeding it twice.
I then cycled the ABS unit (ground the pins in the diag box and turn the key on) and bled again afterwards, and the pedal came up solid.

Surprised Mania didn't do this.

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Tue Feb 07, 2017 9:31 am

http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bleeding-abs-brake-systems

cookies · Postby **cookies** » Tue Feb 07, 2017 12:26 pm

Magpie wrote:http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bleeding-abs-brake-systems

Great article thankyou.

So this is my current thought process. At wakefield last year, ABS was activated at least in the first couple of sessions. This would have cycled the fluid out of the abs system.
System was then bled. At smsp on the weekend ABS was activated once I think. Might have cycled fluid again. Fluid was then bled by mania yesterday. So hopefully I have inadvertently replaced the fluid in the ABS unit already. Guess we will find out at wakefield in march.

Anyone got a place to get rotors for next time that is cheap? Anyone ship them from the US?

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Tue Feb 07, 2017 1:12 pm

I get my NB8B rotors from Mania.

pepejesus · Postby **pepejesus** » Tue Feb 07, 2017 3:09 pm

cookies wrote:Anyone got a place to get rotors for next time that is cheap? Anyone ship them from the US?

Cheapest I've found is ebay. Cheaper than shipping from the US - due to the weight, the shipping costs make them more expensive.

Just make sure you get the correct size as sometimes the ebay listings aren't completely accurate re: vehicle application.

pepejesus · Postby **pepejesus** » Tue Feb 07, 2017 5:53 pm

Fronts: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mazda-MX5-1-8L-Titannium-SP-Turbo-Manual-FRONT-Disc-brake-Rotors-RDA7576-PAIR-/400675946524?hash=item5d4a25c01c:m:m9aoyr6VpdOTfGh2HxrDXEA

Rears: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mazda-MX5-1-8L-Titannium-SP-Turbo-Manual-REAR-Disc-brake-Rotors-DR546-PAIR-/400675011152?hash=item5d4a177a50:m:m-Gn5IiagUKpGz5LxgajIxQ

track_addict · Postby **track_addict** » Tue Feb 07, 2017 9:15 pm

I went through all of this over the last few years. When my car sat for a year I noticed my master cylinder was leaking, so I had that looked at. It was stuffed had to be sleeved and resealed. Put it on and then proceeded to put 2 litres of the Penrite RBF. I bled the abs I bled up, down, from the master cylinder fittings, from the abs unit fittings and wasn't happy.

Took it to my local brake shop and they had a look, said it felt fine and leaned up the slider pins. Got back in it after they had a look and the pedal was great and has been since. I haven't been on track yet though. That is soon to come.

They suggested a different pad (A1RM's currently). Have some project mu HC800's waiting to go on. If you get the same issue and you re-bleed with no success and the calipers look good, look at the master cylinder. After that with your power, ducting or a proper race pad might be the go.

Note: my car now makes similar power so I'm in the same boat.

Sent from my 0PJA10 using Tapatalk

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Wed Feb 08, 2017 8:32 am

This just popped up from Ian Botcher Race Parts (just up the road from where I live)

40 Belar Street, Yamanto
Ipswich, QLD 4305
(07) 3067 3422

**Weekly Wednesday Special***
Kaeding Performance Brake Bleeder - (Part #KRP-105)
-This pressure brake bleeder is simple and effective
-Pump up the pressure, crack each bleeder until all the air is purged
-Fits most master cylinders.
Was $110.95
Now $99
Contact us today for more information.
*Offer valid until 15/02/17