Gladiators '90 MX5 NA6

Gladiator · Postby **Gladiator** » Fri Jan 13, 2017 5:12 pm

Magpie wrote:If you are looking to clean the black 'gunk' off the doors use a heat gun. Get it nice and hot (but not hot enough to burn the paint) and wipe off.

It is a very big job you are undertaking, daunting at first, however a waterfall starts with just one drop Be interesting to see what you find under the carpet.

When putting the dash back in, the bolt at the center of the windscreen needs to be located and massaged into place before most of the other bolts are tightened...

If you have the chance give the HVAC a good clean as well as the blower fan.
http://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/93-miata-stolen-flipped-build-thread-75474/page51/

$5.65 + 10 yen

& good condition steel.

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Gladiator · Postby **Gladiator** » Fri Jan 13, 2017 5:27 pm

Lokiel wrote:I'm surprised you can get much work done at all in this heat/humidity.
Yesterday I did a couple hours of work in the garden and despite 4 large glasses of Gatorade, was completely wiped out when done.

It's tough Lokiel. 4 litres of water and a fan blowing through the garage helps.

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Lokiel · Postby **Lokiel** » Fri Jan 13, 2017 10:21 pm

I use a pedestal fan in the garage but when you need to move about it's not effective unless it's blasting at you - think I need a dedicated industrial blow-through fan.

At least with the hot weather, the paint job should come out better.

Though I've only ever rattle-can painted stuff, my best results have always been to shake the can up, stand it in a bowl of hot water to heat up the paint, run the hot air gun over the surface to be painted so that it's warm, shake the can again and start spraying.

With this heat you can just start painting (after the cleaning prep.)

FYI: Took my washing less than an hour to dry on the line yesterday morning, it was so F'n hot!

Gladiator · Postby **Gladiator** » Sat Jan 14, 2017 1:24 pm

Well the interior is basically out & for a 27 year old floor pan it's pretty bloody good.

Can anyone tell me what these wires are for?

They are not connected to anything, & they disappear up into the loom in the boot. If they aren't for anything in particular I'll just roll them up & tuck them under the parcel shelf, coz they're in my way now.

Here is a tip for free......Don't loosen the screw too far on the interior rear view mirror.

I wasted 2 hours trying to fix it yesterday without success.

I'm a little unmotivated this morning but I have to get started on pulling the engine & box.

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Rolley · Postby **Rolley** » Sat Jan 14, 2017 1:48 pm

Headrest speaker wiring. :wink:

Gladiator · Postby **Gladiator** » Sat Jan 14, 2017 8:25 pm

Rolley wrote:Headrest speaker wiring.

Oh ok. I just ran new wires. Then speakers blew up.

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Rolley · Postby **Rolley** » Sun Jan 15, 2017 9:05 am

Some more Metallic Brown inspiration for you!
Powdercoat the centers of your Jellybeans black or charcoal and I think you'd be on a winner.

Also I have a couple of mirrors in my bits box. I'll have a look and if I have one that's not peeling, it's yours.

Gladiator · Postby **Gladiator** » Sun Jan 15, 2017 4:14 pm

Thanks heaps Rolley

Well I'll call this weekend a success. The interior is out & so is the engine. It was a huge job by myself in this heat but now the crappy works done & the fun begins.

The car is back in its normal garage again..... we'll sort of.

I picked these up today for $15 the pair. The bloke said they didn't work but I took the punt. One needed bleeding & the other needed oil & bleeding. $400 worth for $15

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Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Sun Jan 15, 2017 5:00 pm

Nice pick up. Agree that it was hot/humid today

Gladiator · Postby **Gladiator** » Mon Jan 23, 2017 5:38 pm

I made a little more progress today.
The bay is stripped almost as far as it is going to be.

When I pulled the brake master & booster off I found this. I don't know if it is an issue or not. The brakes were working fine.

Then we come to the clutch master. I initially thought that one stud had been snapped off, so started pounding. I eventually realised the 2nd nut was up behind the pedal. I'm hoping I haven't done too much damage to the firewall.

I will have a crack at most things, (I believe that's how you learn), but not electrics. They scare & confuse the crap outa me. That's why I'm going to be just pulling the loom up out of the way to paint. Like so......

Unless a friendly Auto Sparky wants to help out????

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Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Mon Jan 23, 2017 5:51 pm

Nice progress!

With regards to the brake booster that looks like brake fluid damage and nothing to worry about, just needs a good clean up and treatment to stop and rust in the future.

Gladiator · Postby **Gladiator** » Mon Jan 23, 2017 6:13 pm

Magpie wrote:Nice progress!

With regards to the brake booster that looks like brake fluid damage and nothing to worry about, just needs a good clean up and treatment to stop and rust in the future.

Yeah that's what I'm thinking.

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Gladiator · Postby **Gladiator** » Mon Jan 23, 2017 6:27 pm

I'm after some general opinions on the brake booster. Should it be just painted? Or should it be powder coated? I'm thinking painted black will be fine. Thoughts.......?

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Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Mon Jan 23, 2017 6:37 pm

Have a look at what finish will best resist brake fluid.

Gladiator · Postby **Gladiator** » Fri Feb 03, 2017 6:03 pm

I thought I'd degrease the front subframe before going any further.

That's the cleanest it's been in 27 years.

Next on my list was to fix the dent in the sill. I took it back to bare metal & got to work with the stud welder. This turned out to be a massive fail. The sill is way too strong for a slide hammer. I'm being positive & telling myself that's a good thing.

So it looks like it's plan B, which is cut & patch. I'll be enlisting the help of a good mate of mine who can weld & has a plasma cutter. My welds are uglier than a boil on a backside.

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