Jordan's NA6 [WA]

[jordan.k]

From the Innovate wiring manual

Circuits that share power with the vehicle’s stereo, ignition system, ECU, lighting, or fuel pump should not be used. When in doubt, create an additional circuit using an automotive relay available at any automotive parts supplier. See the next section for a relay installation diagram.

Thanks for this, rules out all the common sources, will put an add-a-circuit in later

[jordan.k]

After doing some research I decided to 'delete' my afm.
This is common practice for 1.6 cars with after market ECU's.

Started off grinding down some spade terminals until they fir into my AFM connector (probably dodgy)


Where the IAT connects


Dangling IAT


FP/GND, Considered a sort of dodgy method but I didn't feel like messing around with factory loom too much.


ECU reading intake temp (not accurate due to location, need to buy some spare 3" intercooler pipe first and drill/tap. This also brings up another issue, that my TPS is getting no signal, have a VTPS of unknown condition that I will try and substitute in to see if that works, or else the problem could be in the wiring somewhere.



Car seems to start better than it has before, cant really comment why, maybe because the fuel pump is always priming when ignition is on.

Have ordered a basic log manifold and 2.5" dump to suit t25/t28 from ND which hopefully I will see in the near future
(2.5" because cheaper and I'm not expecting to see more than 200whp on the 1.6. Id probably be even happy with 140-150whp to be honest.)

[smy0003]

Looking good mate!
Coming along well.

[jordan.k]

Looking good mate!
Coming along well.

Thanks!

[jordan.k]

Next up was suspension.
Bought a used set of koni yellows that are height adjustable.

Theyve been in a few cars, but still feel really solid, a HUGE improvement over my blown stock shocks that would bottom out/frame bang over bumps if I wasn't careful
Fronts - second time round doing all 4 supsension in an mx5, took me about 3 hours by myself this time (lets not talk about the first time). It was a fair bit more tedious than I would have expected but not difficult by any means.


Rears


And also got some new floor mats from mania, they look 100x better than the worn out supercheap auto specials it was rocking before



Off topic rant; have been searching long and hard for a clutch to handle boosted application on my na6.
Ideally $2-400, there is an ebay special, the xtreme HD organic.

I asked a fair few people for power limits of this clutch and didn't really get a straight answer. If anyone has experience would it support 150-160kw atw, maybe 10-12 psi of boost on a t25 or t28 of some sort, 99% street driving, not too abusive on the clutch.

Or else I will probably spend a bit more on a 1.8 setup of some sort. but theyre all $500+

[speed]

3 hours is pretty quick going without a hoist - good job!

Not sure if I've mentioned this to you before, I have an xtreme EXTRA heavy duty in mine.
Will be able to let you know in a week or two if it handles the t28.

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

[jordan.k]

So decided to tackle adding a variable TPS.

I am using an rb30e auto tps (variable) from a banged out VL commodore. Cost me $20 for a complete manifold with tps attached. Bought untested but fortunately was getting some good readings on a multimeter when I got it home.


It's about 6-10mm short of concealing the throttle plate shaft thing so I trimmed it about 6mm ish and ground it flat.

The proceeded to tap the existing holes beneath it, tried to do one with the TB hanging on the car... big mistake... didn't tap all the way through and went to thread in the bolt and it snapped when I was backing it out to check how the thread was! Can't wait to see how I go with my sump

On the bright side it's the first time ive used the tap and one side came out perfect. M4x1.00 tap IIRC.

I thought this was the end and was about to resort to using cable ties, or electrical wire


Decided to do a very ghetto fix as I couldnt get the bolt out and refuse to use an easy out after snapped on inside my turbo (more on that later)

This hole actually lines up fine and was easier to screw in than the other side.

And voila

rb30e tps mounted, Have not wired it up yet. I am planning to chop the stock plug and use all 3 wires there then repin 1N (think its the white signal wire that is the input for the stock tps switch) in the ecu to take the spot of 2M which is recommended for variable input. All of this is to connect to the grey plug. So hopefully it works

There is a super clean way to tuck the grey plug inside to use the nippon denso connector like oem but I'm not very handy with a soldering iron so will give that a miss... repinning 1 pin is already getting me a bit nervous.

*stock tps would still work if I ever decided to go back to stock for some reason lol*

[jordan.k]

Decided to not be a pussy and try using a soldering iron...

As you can see it's not pretty but it worked, The internal wiring mod is a lot cleaner as it plugs into the OEM tps connector.

This is the first time ive used a soldering iron it's not pretty but they hold surprisingly strong and much better than twist and tapes


There wasn't heaps of spoonfed info on the internet on how to do this install but in case anyone is in the same situation with an adaptronic 440d and na6 I've made this diagram which worked for me.


Here is proof showing that the tps is indeed variable, these were my 0-100 adc calibration readings.
Before the ECU wouldnt even use the tps input because it was just an on/off switch


Pretty happy it all worked out

Now just waiting for parts still, clutch , manifold, dump, injectors all in post... I hate waiting for postage.
Andhave to figure out how I will mount my intercooler. I can't see any way possible with the two radiator fans in the way, might have to move one. Don't really want to get rid of AC/PS as they're sort of the only luxuries the car has and its sort of my daily driver. Not many people seem to regret removing AC/PS though and it would make routing the intercooler so easy! ...maybe as a last resort

[speed]

Check my thread for how I mounted my intercooler.

Yes I did remove my AC but intercooler would still mount with an AC condenser.

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

[jordan.k]

Check my thread for how I mounted my intercooler.

Yes I did remove my AC but intercooler would still mount with an AC condenser.

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

Thanks, will check it out

[jordan.k]

Received delivery of a few items.

First was my suzuki cappucino washer bottle. I ordered this from amayama about 2 weeks ago, around $55 posted which I thought was cheap enough not to argue with.


Install is very very straight forward and it frees up a bit of space in the engine bay and gave me an excuse to get rid of the old grotty washer line hoses
I used this from bunnings and it was a perfect fit for the washer hose



Here is a picture of where I have temporarily mounted it using one factory bolt hole and an M8 bolt with some spare washers to space it out on the other side. It is relatively stable but could do with another mount which I will add later.



The other thing that arrived today was quite exciting.

Very happy with the quality! Steampipe log manifold and 2.5" dump pipe.
Turbo unclocked cant even mount on the manifold so I will have to get around to trying to loosen that damn circlip which already broke a pair of circlip pliers!

[Okibi]

We used the 5mm tubing last weekend, I felt it was a fraction too fat, I think 4mm from an aquarium or bunnings irrigation might be better.

[jordan.k]

We used the 5mm tubing last weekend, I felt it was a fraction too fat, I think 4mm from an aquarium or bunnings irrigation might be better.

I did notice it was a bit fatter than the oem but it fit nice and snug so I couldn't fault it

[jordan.k]

So have been doing a little bit of fiddling around with my interfooler setup.... yes that right an intercooler on a naturally aspirated car



It started with an intercooler from a ford of some sort that I purchased off gumtree with 2 random bit of aluminium 2.5" piping that had some bends in it for $100. It was used but it great condition hardly any damaged fins.

Came with no couplers so I took an estimated guess and ordered some off ebay which seem good enough quality for me. 5 2.5" couplers came at $35 delivered and 3 2.5" 90 bends $50. Also 10 tbolt clamps a 3/8 - 5/8hose barb for IACV and a 3/8 - nipple thing for PCV while NA and wastegate signal when turbocharged.

Those bits cost me around $40-50 thanks to knowing people who get great staff discounts at repco ;)

First thing I had to do was mount the intercooler to the chassis so I could rest my jack from holding it up all night.
I had to bend the AC drier and its lines out of the way a bit to get the intercooler sitting nice and level and high up.


After that I started test fitting the 2 bit of intercooler pipe I had. Couldn't find a way to get up on the hotside without removing the AC fan so I removed that. Yes it will make me overheat standing still with AC on but I don't even use A/C as it's not working, so i'm maybe going to get rid of it all together... or maybe get it fixed!

The routing I used was just what worked with the limited resource I had on me and surprisingly it actually all managed to fit and If I had a port for IACV I could be driving it right now. (need 3/8th tap and appropriate drill bit)
*Cold side*
Started with a 90 elbow of silicone into a straight piece of aluminium with a 90 on the end


Then another 90 elbow in silicone to another straight sort of 90 thing into the intercooler.
Quite happy with this cold side setup and how snug it fit.


*Hot side*
Coupler off the intercooler into a 'u' bend that's hanging sort of low which has a 90 silicone elbow into a straight ally piece that end on a 45 where I have TEMPORARILY attached the pod filter.. I will source another piece of pipe to get it sitting behind the heat shield out of the way, and brace it so it doesn't wobble all over the place.

That's about as far as I got.. what I have left to do is put barbs for IACV and PCV and locate my IAT sensor post intercooler and somewhere that won't heat soak.
Oh and find a way to bead roll the pipes. I tried ghetto an exhaust clamp with vise grips and a washer but It would not budge, either good quality aluminium or low quality muscles

[speed]

The fan on the hot side is your thermo fan. Just thought I read that you're getting rid of it.

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk