'Sunbeam' - Jelzahars NA8

[speed]

Sorry to read of the recent issues.

Regarding the cooling, you shouldn't need thicker than 40mm.
I suspect that there is something else at play there. Maybe play with the tune once you've sorted the oil leak/pressure issue.

If you are convinced that the engine bay temp is an issue, you could test it with the bonnet off to see if you still see the same temps.

Not a fix but may rule out engine bay temp as an issue.
In any event I think you need to fix the oil issue first before going thru each component in your cooling system.

Best of luck and keep us posted

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[plohl]

Are you getting the temperatures from the ecu dude?
Check to make sure you have the right calibration for your temperature sensor.

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[Lokiel]

Like plohl, I suspect that your CLT gauge calibration is "off".

When I first got my Adaptronic, my CLT calibration was wrong (lower than it should have been so the fan was NOT auto-starting when it should have) and when stopped at the lights (it was a warm summer day, I had the top down but no A/C) I could see steam coming from under the hood so I turned on the A/C to activate the A/C fan and normal fan.
I pulled into the first service station I encountered and shortly after I turned the engine off, there was a mini explosion from under the bonnet and I could see green coolant droplets from every orifice out the front of the car.
I popped the hood and saw coolant covering everything and the radiator cap lying upside down on the radiator.

ie. If your CLT temperature was really over 99*C, the pressure built up inside your radiator would have popped the cap.

A very simple test of your temperature gauges is to see what they are early in the morning, before you've started the engine.
Using a normal thermometer near the car, they should be approximately the same (ie. ambient air temperature).
Temperature gauges aren't linear and you should also get "high" and "middle" values for them but that requires heating the sensor in a controlled environment - this "low" value is easy to check at least.

[mattyredlocks]

ie. If your CLT temperature was really over 99*C, the pressure built up inside your radiator would have popped the cap.

Agree with calibration probably being off, but not with >99 = bang. The factory NB8B main fan comes on at 97, and the aircon fan spins up if the car hits 108. ...trust me, I've hit some serious (calibrated and confirmed) temps in mine - try >110 (think it got to 115, too busy looking at the road) at Lakeside in February. That was a baaaaad day, but no radiator pop.

[RS2000]

NB's have a 110kpa radiator cap.
Plain water under that pressure won't boil until 120-125 deg C. Even higher with coolant added.
If a cap pops off, I'd say it wasn't on properly, because pressure wouldn't unscrew it.

[Red_Bullet]

Any updates?

[Jelzahar]

Any updates?

Alrighty sorry for the lack of updates lately. To be frank I've been just dead lazy and motivation hit a bit of rock bottom.

Oil pressure I finally got around to dealing with. Spent the arvo ripping the subframe out and sump off. Once I got the oil pump off I thought to manually test the pressure relief for stickiness. Seemed to be moving fine, but too fine I think is the problem. The spring pressure is quite significantly softer in this brand new pump when compared to my oem pump had pulled off (tested back to back). The leak I am 90% sure was from the universal o-ring used on the high pressure output of the pump which will be replaced with a new genuine o-ring.

So the plan is to now pull the spring and valve out of the oem and stick it in the brand new pump with a shim or two to step up that top end pressure. I've employed Zabinskii for that task as well as drilling and welding in an extra bung in the sump for my oil temp sensor.

As far as the water temp issue goes will either be ordering a quality radiator from mishimoto or a crossflow out of the states which I'm leaning more towards. Also decided to bite the bullet and ditch the AC system which I know I'll regret but it's all in the name of race car right.






Shoutout to Rolley for letting me borrow his (very home made) engine hanger it works beautifully


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[Jelzahar]

Well, good news. It all works well most of it anyway. Oil pressure is now bang on within spec (3.5-3.8bar under load and 1.2-1.4bar idle) oil temp is also good cant get it over 100-105c under hard driving, ECT are still okay but I'm going to be attempting some proper ducting to help bring it down a touch (max ive seen is 103-105c).

Still on a pretty rough tune till all the little teething issues are sorted running waste gate pressure 9psi max. But when shes spooled up she goes like a pig on heat. The diff/flywheel combo makes it stupidly rev happy. Shout outs to Mattyredlocks for sorting out my hacked up thing I called a 'tune' bloody champion. Its close enough till the motor is run in and ready for a proper dyno tune.

[mattyredlocks]

Hehe, thanks. I wouldn't call it a fantastic tune, but can confirm it goes like stink.

Many giggles and much maniacal laughter was had during test drives - especially because the cluster hood tips forward when it comes on boost

--------

Because reasons.

[Jelzahar]

Another quick little update:

Just clicked over the 3000km mark been loving every minute of it (except when things break). Oil pressure finally has sorted itself out nicely that everything is run in and tight, idles at 1.5-1.7bar, oil temp won't go over 95c and I sorted out those high ECTs by making up some ghetto ducting and shrouds to replace the air dam, can't get it any hotter than 97 now which helps me sleep at night.

Made the mistake of using non-genuine cam seals which decided they didn't like holding in oil and actually popped out of the socket and made a mess of my nicely painted engine bay. Slapped some genuine seals in and not a drop since.

Did a compression test on the engine with nice equal results across all 4 @ 160psi (dont quite know the accuracy of the gauge but at least its equal right)

Picked up a set of EV14 1000cc injectors which will be going in shortly as well as winding the boost up from 9psi to hopefully 14-15psi...

[beavis]

now that the car is sorted, time for a new rego plate?