NC 2.5L engine swap (Aus Spec)

[Adrianvh]

Also I'll be fabricating my own PCV plate and threaded bung

[mephisto2020]

Well the suspected PCV leak was not the issue. I have a crack in my block that opens slightly as the engine flexes.
So almost 2 years to the day and I'll be doing another engine swap.
2 days, few beers and some music , im actually looking forward to it.
If anyone wants to drop over and see how its done, let me know and I'll msg you dates when i have ths new block.

Damn Adrian that really sucks! At least it should be a relatively quick thing now that you've done it before. 2 days is pretty quick! I don't know how long it will take me for the first time. This is not the 1st, 2nd or even 3rd time I've read about cracked 2.5 blocks in secondhand motors, is it covered by a wreckers warranty for your motor?

I'm still amassing parts for the swap personally but hope to have it under way on Friday this week, it's my first time with an engine swap but so far I'm going from a stock NC1 that's quite possibly the worst condition of any in Australia (from previous owners) with a dud bearing to swapping the motor for a 2.5, ohlins, header/mid/muffler, clutch/flywheel, carbonmiata interior, keyless entry/starting, tyres, respraying panels and finally a tune from Dynotronics Joe. I'm pretty excited about it all just worried I might forget something when everything is in pieces as I always do with major car work. Your guide will help a LOT, so cheers for documenting it so well! This thread has to be one of the best resources I've found so far on mx5ct or miata.net.

It's going to be interesting 'restoring' a car that's so modern but in my defense I bought it for 10.5k and don't mind spending the cash on installing parts I know are good and having a reliable car with quality parts installed without shortcuts. I'm excited about having a better power/weight ratio and much better handling than it's current 'blown shocks/worn bushings/cheapest chinese tyres on the market' setup.

Is there any way you'd be willing to fabricate another PCV plate while you're at it for beer or cash? or documenting the spot you're going with for the PCV hole? I'm tempted to just cut a plate out myself, drill and tap it rather than hacking up the plastic stock one and risk jb weld/epoxy running through my new clutch and engine or having an oil leak in a very inconvenient spot for the future and depending on the amount leaking risk frying the bearings on another motor.

[Adrianvh]

Yeh i have a basic machine shop so will make up a few if anyone else is after one

[mephisto2020]

Yeh i have a basic machine shop so will make up a few if anyone else is after one

You're an absolute legend! Thank you so much mate!

[mephisto2020]

How goes the engine swap Adrian?

I've just received my final parts this arvo after having a few significantly delayed packages with Aussie post - the massive speed balancer delete kit and the timing kit and I'm just ripping in to my swap starting with the tear down. It's quite a simple engine bay compared to the other cars I've worked on where they cram as much as possible in to the engine bay, what a nice change!

[mephisto2020]

ah damn it, spoke toooo soon!
My EcuTek cable is in Austria instead of Australia!!!!! ugh.

Should not trust USPS!

Is it okay to start her up with the new motor swapped in/exhaust done (GWR) and see if she runs with no oil/coolant leaks? Not revving it up or driving/loading the engine, just start her up, look for leaks/oversights or anything and turn it off again.

Adrian: No worries about the machined PCV plate, I'm travelling to the states in 2-3 weeks so I can pick one up there as I feel bad asking you to fabricate one anyways, and if you want one too let me know I can bring it back with me late Jan. Short term it's JB Weld or plastic weld which should be fine for a few months with the little I drive it.

I'm up to step 52, going to do up to step 72 tomorrow, engine removal day after, engine replacement/suspension/bushings/shifter bushing (brass)/exhaust and etc happening on the weekend.

Once I come back I'm designing a keyless entry system that unlocks when you're in close proximity, lowers the windows and keyless start push button among other stuff if anyone's interested in a design, I work in automation/SCADA/engineering so I have a bit of experience if anyone wants similar I can write a guide just let me know and if there's interest it's going to be a guide. Can also be customized with biometric start or whatever setups you guys want. Could also lower the roof and windows when you're near your door as it unlocks automatically too for PRHT's.
Can also even setup with RFID proximity start with finger implants if that's your thing, no need for keys just step close to the car and ready to rock/start and drive.

[Lokiel]

ah damn it, spoke toooo soon!
My EcuTek cable is in Austria instead of Australia!!!!! ugh.

Should not trust USPS!
:

I hope it wasn't expensive.

I don't trust USPS at all and always insist on using UPS or FedEx for items over A$100 since they've lost 2 items of mine in the past and told me that they couldn't do anything for me since Australia is outside of the USA.

Tracking actually showed that one of the items had arrived at their Illinois warehouse but nothing after that so it was still inside the USA at that time but they wouldn't pursue it.

ie. Don't use USPS if you don't want to risk losing the item in the mail, pay a little extra for UPS or FedEx guaranteed delivery.

[mephisto2020]

It was a $1000 tuning package for the 2.5 swap with the EcuTek cable, kinda pricey yeah but insured. I think the sender might lose his marbles trying to deal with USPS based on my recent experience with our local equivalent, Aussie post who sent parts around the world after arriving in Sydney. I had most items sent by 'the fastest most reliable shipping possible' options generally, not sure why USPS 'priority mail' didn't flag anything for me, but it happens and I have a mate in Austria at the moment plus am traveling to the states so either way surely I can get this sorted out the car gets better every day though and I sure do want to drive it!

I've been wondering if I could start it to test if I've done everything correctly or not since doing the swap?

[mephisto2020]

Brief history:
Please do not waste your time like I did. Just remove the power steering pump. It is not possible to get the AC compressor out of the way with the PS pump still installed even if you remove everything else but the PS pump (ask me how I know). You can see where I tied it up out of the way.

Oh my god I wish I had read this bit before I removed my motor!!!!!

I think 20% of my time today was removing the motor and the other time was just trying to 'tetris' out the PS to a spot so I could get the motor out.
If you're going bottom out you must remove the PS pump! Otherwise you'll find yourself frustrated, covered in PS fluid and cursing yourself for trying to save time but making the whole job a PITA

FYI for those who don't want to split the gearbox and motor apart before removal/ want to do a bottom out removal and only have an engine crane and at least 2 jack stands;
- Follow Adrians awesome guide and the WSM engine removal guide
(no need to remove radiator, but remove opposing strut to direction of removal!)
- Get the rear wheels on the ground
- Have the front jacked up with the front sills on jack stands that are 500mm high
- Lower the engine/subframe down with your crane on to the legs of your engine crane, supporting the gearbox on a dolley or trolley jack
- Wheel it all out from the wheel well, the engine fits under the front wheel wells with around 10-15mm to spare when the engine/subframe are sitting on the legs of your engine crane (measured with harness sitting on rocker cover to avoid removing all of the harness from the motor).

[keito]

Brief history:
Please do not waste your time like I did. Just remove the power steering pump. It is not possible to get the AC compressor out of the way with the PS pump still installed even if you remove everything else but the PS pump (ask me how I know). You can see where I tied it up out of the way.

Oh my god I wish I had read this bit before I removed my motor!!!!!

I think 20% of my time today was removing the motor and the other time was just trying to 'tetris' out the PS to a spot so I could get the motor out.
If you're going bottom out you must remove the PS pump! Otherwise you'll find yourself frustrated, covered in PS fluid and cursing yourself for trying to save time but making the whole job a PITA

FYI for those who don't want to split the gearbox and motor apart before removal/ want to do a bottom out removal and only have an engine crane and at least 2 jack stands;
- Follow Adrians awesome guide and the WSM engine removal guide
(no need to remove radiator, but remove opposing strut to direction of removal!)
- Get the rear wheels on the ground
- Have the front jacked up with the front sills on jack stands that are 500mm high
- Lower the engine/subframe down with your crane on to the legs of your engine crane, supporting the gearbox on a dolley or trolley jack
- Wheel it all out from the wheel well, the engine fits under the front wheel wells with around 10-15mm to spare when the engine/subframe are sitting on the legs of your engine crane (measured with harness sitting on rocker cover to avoid removing all of the harness from the motor).

Are you looking at road registering your mx5 once the engine swap is done?

[mephisto2020]

Are you looking at road registering your mx5 once the engine swap is done?

yep.

You have the advantage of the 2.5 looking identical to the 2.0 so aside from a slight increase in volume it's not actually noticeable that a swap has even been done. The timing cover, rocker cover, plastic engine fascia/cover and so on are installed on the 2.5 from the 2.0 and for me it seemed more discreet than a SC kit if you're ever concerned about a defect notice/etc.

[bruce]

But the engine number will cause rego problems? The number won't come up as a 2lt engine this leading to Engineering.
If u keep the stock inlet u can avoid an emissions test.

[keito]

But the engine number will cause rego problems? The number won't come up as a 2lt engine this leading to Engineering.
If u keep the stock inlet u can avoid an emissions test.

But if you go to the trouble of getting it engineered may as well replace the header/exhaust and do the emissions test.

[Adrianvh]

Man I'm getting good at the whole engine swap thing........
I got the new engine and silly me didn't check compression ( yes you can see where this is heading)
Put it in, wouldn't fire.....
Hmmmmmmmm
Took it out, checked timing, fuel and spark.
All good
Used the phone a friend option and he rocks up with a compression tester. Only #4 has good compression. 1 & 3 don't even register.
Thank god for insisting on a warranty.
So new engine arrives Wednesday.
So far I've taken an engine in and out 7 times. Wednesday will be 8

[StanTheMan]

ohhh gawd.....
thats a real bugger. but at least its a warranty job. big hassle never the less