Driveshaft into the diff issues.

[seanmx5]

Hi guys. Santander gave me a SE 4.1 Torsen lsd for Xmas
Needing some help reinstalling though the drive shaft.
My car is an NB8A.
Do I need to replace the drive shaft to fit it?
I remember the green part was 12mm closer to the different housing. I can't seemake to push it any further in using my strength. I done want to use a mallet in case of damage.
Could it be the small O rings at the end of the shaftsite making it difficult to simply slide all the way?
Can anyone advise me how to get the shaft in further or is something missed matched?
Do I forceven it in harder or should it sit this far out?

Many thanks...

[The American]

You have pushed it in as far as the circlips, but you have not pushed the axles far enough for the circlips to pop into place. You will need to tap them, or push pretty hard to overcome the circlip. Make sure the splines on the shafts have engaged in the diff.

[seanmx5]

Thanks. Am I safe to say it has engaged if the difference rotates when I spin the hub.
Should I unbolt top and bottom bolts where the hub are is as I have only removed the top bolt to pull out the shaft from the difference when removing.

[Locutus]

You need SE half shafts to fit the SE diff. SE half shafts are thicker and have more splines.

[seanmx5]

Serious?!?! I was told by the seller that he had this diff in his NB8A without changing the half shafts.
You mean they are different or do you mean if I had an NA?
Cheers

[NitroDann]

SE is different.

Having said that there is no such thing as a 4.1 SE diff unless it has itself been modified.

You should google this stuff BEFORE buying parts.

Dann

[The American]

Most likely, the axles you have will fit. Getting 4.1 gears into an SE diff is lots of mucking about, and unlikely. I just swapped my diff and only unbolted the top bolt to allow the stub axle to swing out and down. Push the upper A arm up out of the way, slide the axle into the diff, making sure the splines are engaged (turning the diff as you mentioned), then give it a good hard shove.

[The American]

From memory, I used a second jack to lift the lower control arm up to take up most of the slack,and then used a 6x4 timber as a drift with a large hammer...

[seanmx5]

Hi Dann. I was told that the gear and pinion rings have been replaced and it was imported from Japan.
The half shaft seems to slide in the drives haft and engage the difference though.
If I had the beefier or stronger shaft would it even engage or slide in. Are the splines different?

[seanmx5]

Thanks American. I'll try giving it a shove and knock.
Trying to avoid taking the big centre gold bolt and entire hub assembly apart especially because the axle is already removed from the diff. thus how would I grasp it to unlock the gold bolt which should be so tight to crack loose.

Guys at this stage I have really 2 opposite opinon's:
1. They will fit.
2. I need new axles.

Drum role.... All bets are open:)

[NitroDann]

It sounds like youve got no idea what you have, it looks like you need to check the circlips are in good nick then hit the shafts with a big hammer using a drift.

Dann

[greenMachine]

... you need to check the circlips are in good nick

I have always made sure the circlips are correctly positioned - from memory the tangs are at the bottom, but you might want to check that.

I have NEVER used a BFH, or any close relation thereto . I am no professional mechanic, but if you are doing that, in my book you are doing it wrong. All I do is start the splines mating, then give it a hefty shove using the 'knuckle' on the upright - get the joint sliding before it meets any resistance, and let momentum work with you. Sometimes a second go is required (check that the tangs have not moved), but NEVER a hammer.

On the other hand, if you are happy using a hammer to hit something into your diff, who am I to say you are doing it wrong?

[seanmx5]

Thanks everyone for all the informative answers!
It was just me who was afraid to put some force into it.

1. I push the C clips back to a more formed circular shape. Using a heat gun, I heated it up then pressed it in with some pliers. I held it in place and waited for it to cool down. Once released, the C clips were compressed a little tighter.
2. A little grease for lube
3. Slid axle into the diff.
4. Rotated it to see if the splines had engaged
5. Used the momentum and weight of the entire axle and hub and nudged it in.
Boom! One Torsen 4.1 LSD different installed...
Credit to everyone who replied.

Picture was from 2 weeks ago. Heading to Sandown for the first time. Unbelievable day and an absolute awesome turnout of cars.
Anyone for Australia day at Sandown? See you there...

[NitroDann]

... you need to check the circlips are in good nick

I have always made sure the circlips are correctly positioned - from memory the tangs are at the bottom, but you might want to check that.

I have NEVER used a BFH, or any close relation thereto . I am no professional mechanic, but if you are doing that, in my book you are doing it wrong. All I do is start the splines mating, then give it a hefty shove using the 'knuckle' on the upright - get the joint sliding before it meets any resistance, and let momentum work with you. Sometimes a second go is required (check that the tangs have not moved), but NEVER a hammer.

On the other hand, if you are happy using a hammer to hit something into your diff, who am I to say you are doing it wrong?

I do it how youre doing it, but a heavy hammer at low speeds basicalliy the same thing really.

Dann

[93_Clubman]

SE half shafts are thicker and have more splines.

Ref for anyone looking: http://www.mx5cartalk.com/SP_SE_Comparison/