Which threadlocker -Wilwoods 2 piece rotors

guss_bruss · Postby **guss_bruss** » Mon Dec 05, 2016 3:55 pm

Just installing my Wilwoods and I came across an issue. The manual says use Loctite Red 271 which is not sold by any auto store.

What thread locker do you guys use on 2 piece rotors? (bolts are 5/16")
What thread locker do you use on the mounting hardware? (M10 bolts)

The Wilwood manual says to use the 271 stuff on everything but I spoke to a brake shop and he said to use just a low to medium strength locker as he had seen bolts snap using red loctite. but then i said it was for track use and he said maybe just follow the manual, he didn't sound very sure.

and no my FM Wilwood kit does not offer the use of safety wire.

Just trying to hear what experiences you guys have

smy0003 · Postby **smy0003** » Mon Dec 05, 2016 5:12 pm

272 seems appropriate from the charts found here:
http://www.wdarc.org/Loctite%20Guide.pdf

Who knows, have you tried contacting FM for a 271 alternative?

RS2000 · Postby **RS2000** » Mon Dec 05, 2016 8:18 pm

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_RED_tds.pdf

271 is nothing special according to above tech sheet - 150 deg C, M10 breakaway torque 17-40 Nm.(medium/high strength)
I'd use whatever easy to obtain eg 243, 262, 263

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Mon Dec 05, 2016 10:53 pm

Loctite blue if you'll need to undo them at some stage.

Red if it's something you'll never want to undo.

Red usually needs heat to release, undoing a locked bolt without heating it can often lead to you just rounding the head, or shearing the bolt when trying to loosen it (especially smaller bolts)

RS2000 · Postby **RS2000** » Mon Dec 05, 2016 11:50 pm

I disagree. Heat is only required on high torqued extremely large bolts/studs/nuts not found on cars.
Never had a problem undoing small high tensile stuff with high strength red loctites, even when cleaned & using primer to assemble.

guss_bruss · Postby **guss_bruss** » Tue Dec 06, 2016 12:42 am

RS2000 wrote:I disagree. Heat is only required on high torqued extremely large bolts/studs/nuts not found on cars.
Never had a problem undoing small high tensile stuff with high strength red loctites, even when cleaned & using primer to assemble.

Awesome that was my concern was being able to undo them. Thanks for the help!

RS2000 · Postby **RS2000** » Tue Dec 06, 2016 8:25 am

Here are photos of pages from a Loctite Automotive catalogue I have. I hope they are readable.

loctite 002 (Large).JPG

loctite 003 (Large).JPG

The medium strength 243 (blue) liquid shows disc brake caliper bolts as one of its uses. It shows 20 Nm breakaway torque on M10 bolts.
However, the high strength 262 (red) shows a breakaway torque of only 22 Nm. They are very similar.
I'd say red 271 is similar to 262 ?

Cheers

guss_bruss · Postby **guss_bruss** » Wed Dec 07, 2016 4:54 pm

I ended up just using the red loctite Pirtek offers, have a mate that works for them and he uses it day in day out in high heat and vibration applications and has never had an issue with it. Thanks everyone for the help it pointed me in the right direction

StillIC · Postby **StillIC** » Wed Dec 07, 2016 7:39 pm

Loctite 271/263 is more resistant to chemical attack than 262 and other products. It is also high strength, but not as high as 262 (~85%). I would use 271/263, as Wilwood suggests, as brake fluid can attack!

So:
Don't use 290 green as brake heat will kill the bond.
Don't use 242 blue as it has less strength than both reds.
Don't use 262 red as it can be attacked by chemicals.
Use 271/263. It will need heat to unlock it according to Loctite, but breakaway torque suggests otherwise.