MADJAK's NA8 - 200+HP N/A

[madjak]

soooo, wanna make another fuel rail ;)

If you're willing to be a guinea pig. I haven't made a 3D model of a fuel rail for later model head yet. I think the mounting points are closer to the rail by 10mm or so but it would be easy enough to do. I even have a spare block of ally ready left over from my last cut which I could use.

If you have access to the fuel rail I need a couple of measurements. These are the ones from a BP05. The spacing between the holes should be the same, but the offset from the centerline of the rail to the holes will be something like 16mm or so.

[Alex 2550]

I love this thread!! I haven't read it for a couple months but you have been busy, please keep it going mate its inspirational.
The "KISS" sump baffle is awesome, I look forward to hearing how the crank goes as that's a massive amount of weight taken off.
Out of curiosity do you use any form of cradle for the crank now or are you planning on it?
thanks for a great read.

[madjak]

I love this thread!! I haven't read it for a couple months but you have been busy, please keep it going mate its inspirational.
The "KISS" sump baffle is awesome, I look forward to hearing how the crank goes as that's a massive amount of weight taken off.
Out of curiosity do you use any form of cradle for the crank now or are you planning on it?
thanks for a great read.

I run the MBSP from the later model engines. I'm thinking of making some billet end caps through as I can't justify spending $1200 or whatever they are for a set and supposedly they help prolong bearing life and so would probably help me. The crank is sitting on the shelf whilst I find some time to go do some lathing on it, but I've been a bit distracted by the CNC milling machine and the electric water pump.

I'll add a post in here once I have my EWP setup and running.

[mx5002]

soooo, wanna make another fuel rail ;)

X2

[mx5002]

With a tape measure I get 16mm.

Mounting points measure 0, 95mm and 190mm same as yours (I'm using a tape measure remember haha)

Injectors are spaced at 90mm apart.

[madjak]

Injectors are 91mm... same as the cylinders and ports.

I guessed it was 10mm difference. Does anyone have a spare fuel rail they can send me to get it right?

[beavis]

Im pretty sure there is no difference in bolt position or injector position, just the offset is different, as mx5002 and MADJAK mentioned, is about 10mm different between the years.

I actually have a fuel rail drilled for BOTH sizes, i am happy to send it to you to measure from.

[Zabinskii]

if beavis cant send you one ive got a spare nb8b fuel rail lying around,
Pm me if you havent already got one lined up and i can send it over to your side of the country in the next few days?

[mx5002]

Nb8b rails must be in abundance on the east coast. I have two spares at home I think.

[Alex 2550]

Awesome, i figured you would be running the MBSP thanks heaps for your reply.
I recall reading the same thing about the end caps on one of the more reputable mx5 specialists website or by them on a forum i just cant remember exactly who it was.... possibly 949 racing.
looking forward to the updates on it all best of luck with it all

[madjak]

Wow it's been a while since I posted here.

After over last two years I've been running my aluminium exhaust without issue, but after the long weekend of motorsport down at Collie the thinner wall of the mandrel bend finally succumbed to the heat and collapsed on itself. Also the V'band flange is no longer flat nor round... I believe the technical term for it is 'munted'.

I'll be replacing the aluminium section with stainless, only because I now have a tig and I can actually weld stainless ok... Aluminium isn't working for me yet. Also the inside of my exhaust is nice and clean. I think it's the nasty exhaust pulses flushing it out... It's almost shiny inside!





So: Aluminium exhaust is ok but you need to run a thick enough wall thickness.

[lightyear]

Maybe you need to start the alluminium further back so it's getting a bit less heat.

[madjak]

yeah it would definitely help... I think the wall thickness of the mandrel bends are only 1.4 mm and it's not enough to soak away the heat or give any structural strength when hot. I'm pushing pretty hard and I think my exhaust moves a fair bit when I'm bouncing off kerbs so the heat is making it soft and susceptible to collapsing.

If I could weld it I'd stick with aluminium, but just run the 2.4mm wall thickness throughout. It's so light and the exhaust note is really nice. For now I'll try thin wall stainless and see how that goes simply because I have a spare length of it and I don't have time to pick up a new aluminium V-band flange.

[madjak]

This weekend I ran my car up at Jack's Hill as part of the Speed Event Series I've been competing in. I've de-registered my car so I can now run my rear wing but it puts me into the outright classing running against lightweight race cars on slicks. I haven't made that many changes recently but the car feels way more settled and just wants to rev, far more than previously. I think the EWP has made a power difference above 6000rpm and a decent alignment is also helping. I'm not sure how much the wing helps on the slower tighter hillclimb events.

I dropped over 2 seconds off my previous best time and managed 5th outright and 2nd in class which is pretty epic considering the cars I'm running against. Not only that but I was only 0.4 seconds off getting the 3rd outright trophy. (I would have had to beat a Beams powered Westfield and a Formula Toyota open wheeler). Unfortunately I don't have a goPro atm so no video of the run.

I think there is still more time in the car if I drop the torsen and go for a plate diff. I can also switch over to 225 Hoosier slicks and maybe get some more weight out of the car. Overall the car is starting to work well now... I'd really like to head east sometime and take if for a spin at Philip Island, Wakefield etc.

[beavis]

I'd really like to head east sometime and take if for a spin at Philip Island, Wakefield etc.

Please be sure to give us all some warning before you do, would be good to come see the car in action.