Axles floating in and out - cause?

[The American]

I don't know for certain. I believe it to be a t2.

It is a 3.6 ratio, which I believe means it's an SE diff or it has been built from bits. If there is a way to measure the axles on the car I could check that.

It occurs to me now that if it is a full SE diff swap, the 3.6 diff sitting on my bench is not going to swap straight in...

[flycasta]

Sorry my knowledge of individual models in Aust. is not good.

I was under the impression the SE was the Turbo model..... they have the same size diff just different size spline count that goes into the diff. I think the 3.63 ratio is across the board for Aust with both the Normally aspirated and Turbo models getting it but as I say my knowledge is not good with what came with what ratio etc.

The only way to tell would be to pull an axle and count the splines.

Either way I would suggest some more investigation needs to be done, the diff needs to come out, before too much damage is done.

[93_Clubman]

I think the 3.63 ratio is across the board for Aust with both the Normally aspirated and Turbo models getting it

Indeed, ADM Oct 2000 NB8B onwards was 3.63.
Believe The American's NB8B had its turbo fitted after initial purchase, so not originally an SE.

[The American]

If the Torsen is dead/dying then the diff is worth less than a working 2nd hand 3.6 open diff (given that the Torsen is not rebuildable?).

If I pull it out, unless I'm planning to find another 2nd hand Torsen to rebuild it with, it's probably only good for parts - I don't see what I can do with it. Os Giken?

As 93_clubman points out, my car started life with and ADM 3.6 open diff. What's in there now is unknown except for what can be easily observed. It's an LSD and 3.6 ratio, possibly from an SE, or possibly made from bits.

If there was a source of rebuild info and parts, I'd try.

[Nevyn72]

The only way to tell would be to pull an axle and count the splines.

The SE axles also used a different type of inner uni-joint so this should be visible externally without pulling the axles.....

[flycasta]

If it started out life as an ADM NB8B It will not be an SE diff then. When you replaced the diff you would needed to get the SE driveshafts as well...... if your original driveshafts slotted straight in then it will be the T2 from the normally aspirated....... not the SE

Yes you are correct......Depending on whats wrong with it it might not be worth anything at all apart from the gear set which some people chase anyway. It is after a diff that is setup and would only require the installation of an open or LSD carrier. I have a couple of damaged T2's that parts can be removed from but again really depends on what is wrong with yours. By the time it is stripped checked and rebuilt depending on who does it and how long it takes to do it might not be worth repairing but without pulling it out and removing the rear cover we still dont know that the torsen is the problem.

[The American]

Thanks Flycasta. I will post back here when I've got it out of the car and have had a closer look at it.

[The American]

Well, here is the diff exposed in all it's gory glory. And I am pretty sure that it's not a T2!

[madjak]

I think it's a helical which is a torsen but a difference design / layout of the gears. Looks like a quaife or OBX helical.

[The American]

It's definitely a helical, and the case looks like and OBX. Apparently the standard Belleville washers are not durable, but once those are replaced they can be a good item (so says google at least)

[flycasta]

Yep....... Looks like an OBX. I rebuilt one down here for a forum member and replaced the belleville washers and I assume it has been ok since.

We had to grind down the crown wheel face of the OBX as it had an enormous amount of runout that would have worn down the gears ultra quick.

Might be an early Guru but more than likely an OBX.