Handling advice needed.

[Code4]

I have new Koni ST.R shocks on my NB8A and have just gone from a heavy 16x7 205/45-16 wheel tyre combo to a 3kg lighter, OEM 15x6 195/50-15 set up on each wheel.
I now find on sharp corners taken vigorously, that the inside rear tyre gives a 'chirp' where as before the heavier wheel did not.
I'd like to keep all four tyres on the ground if possible to maximise grip.

An LSD would no doubt help, however I'm wondering if:-
1) Its my driving style causing this
2) just the way a stock car handles
3) something I can change in the suspension or alignment.

I'm having a twin hoop torque box roll bar fitted this week and new tyres.
Then my plan is to get some advanced driving lessons.

[manga_blue]

General handling advice for both road and track is to brake in a straight line and get yourself in the right gear and at the right speed before the corner. Then turn in and progressively squeeze the throttle. Be smooth with your hands. Hold the wheel just with your fingertips if that helps to soften up your steering inputs.

[Magpie]

Did you change Spring rates, ride heights and/or sway bars?

Is the 'chirp' also a loss in traction?

[Code4]

Ty manga.
No change in ride height, spring rates or sway bars.
No loss in traction.
I thought it may indicate a reduced contact patch that could lead to a reduction in performance. I do tend to over think things.

[greenMachine]

Try softening the rear shocks, to allow the rear wheels a better chance of staying on the road when the car rolls on cornering.

Try disconnecting the rear ARB, same reason. If that is too extreme, replace with a NA bar, it is a couple of mm lighter.

[ralt]

Hi.
Maybe you should get the wheel alignment checked and adjusted if required.

[MattR]

Looking at basics, you only changed the dampers and kept the original springs, or you have new springs with the dampers? And did you get a decent alignment for the car? Not a race type with corner weighting et al that done properly will take at least half a day and cost more than the car is worth, but an alignment done by someone with half a clue and cares about the work they do.

Don't worry about adjusting anything, if the dampers are adjustable, until you understand what effect it will have on the car. Play too much with adjustments and sway bars and you can turn the car into an evil handling pig that you will to drive.

Don't overthink things. These cars are pretty simple and handle well, but need to be dríven smoothly to get the most out of them as they rely on momentum to make their speed, if you are on the track, or to flow nicely from corner to corner if enjoying a mountain run.

My first bet would be that the suspension it replaced was very tired and the performance you got used to wasn't good at all. This probably meant you could "hussle" through corners quicker than you think you can now as the suspension wasn't working that well.

This means you were probably over driving the car and as the suspension was "soggy" you got away with it. Now the car is handling closer to what it should your driving style is now too much to be smooth and the car is reacting faster to your inputs with the tauter suspenion that what you had in the past.

So I would be looking to driving smoother to get a better response from the car and not upsetting the balance in the corner which will in turn mean it is less tiring to drive and also will be quicker point to point.

I wouldn't worry about an LSD, but if an alignment hasn't been done get that sorted at a reputable suspension shop or tyre place.

And definately look at getting some driver training in, even starting at a basic defensive course will make you more aware and a smoother driver able to get more out of the car before you even look at doing performance courses. In fact most decent driver training companies will make you do the basic courses before you can undertake the more advanced performance orientated courses.

[plohl]

Check you tyre pressures - I found on average street tyres, and standard rim size that the tyre pressures were best kept at the recommendation on the door card - 28 psi iirc

If you've just had tyres put on rims, most shops will pump them stupidly high...

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