Head refresh

seanmx5 · Postby **seanmx5** » Sat Sep 17, 2016 10:57 pm

Hi guys,
Can anyone point me to a good reliable and trusted place to get a head refreshed up in Melbourne. (Possibly the bottom too)
If you include an estimate price that would be great too.
Cheers.
Nb8A

smy0003 · Postby **smy0003** » Sat Sep 17, 2016 11:27 pm

Top Torque in Forrest Hill\Vermont do engine building.

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smy0003 · Postby **smy0003** » Sat Sep 17, 2016 11:29 pm

I should add that 'head refresh' is pretty vague, and youd be best to write a list of exactly what you want then do the ring-around for quotes.

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seanmx5 · Postby **seanmx5** » Sun Sep 18, 2016 12:27 am

I'm not too technical. Not sure what I need.
Maybe a clean valves adjusted and checked so I can put it on my donor nb8b block..

seanmx5 · Postby **seanmx5** » Sun Sep 18, 2016 12:37 am

Can anyone tell by looking at these picture's where my problem lies. I had very loud knocking I heard come from the rear bottom of the block.

seanmx5 · Postby **seanmx5** » Sun Sep 18, 2016 12:39 am

Block

seanmx5 · Postby **seanmx5** » Sun Sep 18, 2016 12:41 am

Under head

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Sun Sep 18, 2016 11:44 am

I doubt you'd be able to ring around for quotes. You need a reconditioning shop that you can work with. It all depends on the condition of your head now, including whether or not it's been damaged by whatever wrecked the bottom end.

At the lower end of the scale it might ony need a quick check for straightness and hardness followed by a light shave to prepare it for mounting to the new block. This would average around $80.

At the higher end it might need full reconditioning. As an example I just had an NB8A head restored to new condition for my own car. This involved full dismantling, cleaning, testing and inspection, all valves and valve seats recut, new valve seals, spring testing, head shave and full re-assembly (including resetting of valve clearances) That was $686 but I couldn't have bought a better head new.

Basically you need to have a reconditioning shop examine it and recommend what needs to be done to meet your needs. They may want to hold it for a few days until they can fit it into their workshop schedules - they often allocate these assessment jobs to one of their more senior guys. Then you both need to talk it through and agree the price and scope before they start work.

davekmoore · Postby **davekmoore** » Sun Sep 18, 2016 5:37 pm

seanmx5 wrote:I had very loud knocking I heard come from the rear bottom of the block.

That doesn't sound like a head issue.

seanmx5 · Postby **seanmx5** » Sun Sep 18, 2016 5:50 pm

Thanks Magna Blue...
I've just been recommended a placertain in Melbourne called Hi Torque in Preston.
I'll take your advice on this one definately and get it looked at properly.
Another question though....
When I get it back, can I bolt it directly to the donor BPZ3 vvt block.
This is my first time for everything, first time pulling the entire car engine, tranny, etc apart. thus the many questions. Mechanical background = Basic service
Much appreciated all....!

seanmx5 · Postby **seanmx5** » Sun Sep 18, 2016 5:57 pm

Hey Daventry. I didn't think it was a head issue too until I saw the circled round smooth spots on the valves.
See pic.

seanmx5 · Postby **seanmx5** » Sun Sep 18, 2016 6:30 pm

Some people have said I should check if the valve stems are bent.

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Sun Sep 18, 2016 6:47 pm

I was looking at those earlier too and wondering whether the engine had ingested something solid. I couldn't see any stray metal or holes in the piston crowns where debris might have come up from below. Anyway, the reco shop will see those straight off and check them out. Bent valves are not necessarily a showstopper for BP heads, just a bit of extra expense. My last head started out with 3 bent valves and impact damage all over a couple of combustion chambers and still went for 3,000 laps before I fried it.

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Sun Sep 18, 2016 7:15 pm

Looks like that oil is really backed on as well. That can't be a good signs. Which could stem from lack of oil changes & overheating.

Postby **NitroDann** » Sun Sep 18, 2016 8:04 pm

You have to take it to a reputable head shop, tell them that you intend to use it for (Insert use here).

Ask them how much it might cost at the high end.

Then ask if it looks like that cost based on whats in front of them.

Then come back in a week and pay the bill.

We honestly cannot tell you what is wrong with your engine based on telling us it makes a generic noise in a generic location and a picture of a high km head, you'll have to just take it to an expert in person and pay them to sort it out for you.

Dann