sailaholic NA8

[zossy1]

Very, very interested to see what this thing can do! This build does not follow any standard pattern.

Word from the wise - boosting an 86mm bored BP = pulling the grenade pin.

[StanTheMan]

not sure if boosting this is viable.

massive 306 duration cams with massive overlap, tiny lobe separation & massive compression ratio. Sounds like a N/A screamer to me.

[sailaholic]

Yes will be interesting, but no definitely no boost, though I'm not sure what would fail first the block or the rods.

Not sure if the itbs that come with the engine will fit with stock booster and master... Much will be revealed once it appears in person.

Pulled the pin on a NB front subframe and steering rack yesterday as well while everything is out.

Tossing up on pulling the sump and see if there is a baffle installed and if not, installing one.

Figured changing racks would allow someone to take my whole power steer setup and fit it rather then needing to source a rack as well.


There will still be plenty of excuses for being slower Plohl, just off the top of my head you;
Have wider tires
Have sticker tires
Have more laps
Have a lighter car




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[Magpie]

Gladiators naturally aspirated engine is sold but another one is started

Look forward to seeing/hearing the end result. May have to finally take mine off the road or Special Interest Vehicle Scheme rego for it. Seriously considering a CAMS logbook to fit a full roll cage under the CAMS club rally vehicles this would still allow the vehicle to compete in the current events with no change in class.

[sailaholic]

I've been away in Windorah (QLD) driving land cruisers though the outback, but some progress still being made. No phone service out here, but still have some very slow internet so I've been hunting down pricing and availability on all the bit's i'll need. Some are just maintenance items. To go with the NB subframe will be NB arms and upright. I incorrectly had in my head that it was only the sub frame the changed. Luckily the engine seller had all the NB gear as well.


Engine/: Injector Grommets, Catch Can, Thermostat Gaskets, Comp Engine Mounts, Sump Baffle (if not existing), Sump Gaskets, Steering rack block off bolts, Adaptronic Logger (just have to pay timk who made one for me ), heater hose (one is reasonably new but the other was not available at the time), oil sandwhich plate
Interior: Steering Wheel Extension boss, Shift extender, AC delete Tube, AC Blanking grommets
Transmission: , Shift Boots - Genuine or after market, Gearbox input seal, Gearbox input gasket, Gearbox output seal
Brake - rebuild kits front and rear
Suspension: NB front subframe, NB rack, NB front control arms, NB uprights, front dust boots for the MCAs


Purchased a Mishimoto compact catch can - https://www.amazon.com/Mishimoto-MMBCC-MSTHR-BK-Compact-Baffled-3-Port/dp/B00OBEOXMW Amazon was the cheapest price I could find at about AU$165, which saved $25 over a local supplier. Plohl has been using this one for a while and is happy with it. I went the 3 port as I want to plumb in back into the intake if possible for few issues should it get a roadside check over by the boys in blue.

Steering wheel hub extender - 50mm Black fro GKtech - http://www.gktech.com/index.php/steering-wheel-spacers.html about $65 delivered. With the sparco sprint V I find the wheel too far away, or my legs too high off the seat base. With no power steer this will be worse in that the steering will need more effort, not something that's easily done with over extended arms. I could have gone for a Nardi Deep corn which I love as a wheel but the don't come with a padded center.

Under section 4.9 of the NCOP for light vehicle modifications Post 19070, Pre June 95 cars must comply to ADR 10 (Wheel must be ADR certified) and

Replacement steering wheels should not be less than 330mm in diameter. If the original steering wheel was designed with a recessed or padded hub, the replacement wheel should be of a similar design.

For other reading it's might be worth noting that for post June 95 cars -

for vehicles required to comply with ADR 69, the steering wheel assembly must be identical to one fitted as an option to the same model by the vehicle manufacturer, or alternatively, a steering wheel that has been certified by the replacement wheel manufacturer as a complying wheel for the specific make and model may be used.

I supposed you could argue that a recessed hub is equivalent to a padded up but I'm sure it's a loosing argument on the side of the road. This option was also cheaper and I actually quite like the factory nardi in the early NA8.

[sailaholic]

Double update - OEM parts

A lot of the parts I need are OEM items, the hardest to get was the AC delete ducting under the dash. I ended up trawling the web and found one in the uk for 40 pound plus 30 pound shipping! Ouch. However, they seller was nice enough to include the Mazda part number in the description. From there I could get a price off Amayama AU$25 + delivery, much better!

looking for Genuine part numbers snowballed from there. Rosenthal Arlington Mazda in the US (which used to have a searchable database and cheap prices) is now shut. However I did find these two excellent resources - Atkins Rotary - http://atkinsrotary.com/store/ have many OEM parts with part numbers and reasonable prices (depending on the dollar) but did not have any rear caliper slider pins.

I then found - http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com which actually has the exploded diagrams and all the reference numbers, you can then purchase direct, but once again they give you the genuine part numbers which let me find some of the more obscure parts for the rear calipers like the second level adjuster for the handbrake etc etc.

By the time I was done I had a 25 item, Au$330 shopping cart at Amayama, of that $220 was brake parts! So first job when I get home will be to pull the calipers out and break them down too see what really needs replacing and what doesn't. It's worth nothing the mazda rebuild kits are extremely extensive - 1 kit does both sides and includes all the extra little caps and dust boots. So if all my boots are in good conditions, purchasing just the seals as individual parts may work out better.

I'll also be sending the list to our local sponsors like Auto Plus and Mania to see if they can get match or approach the pricing. Interestingly Mania have a Fuel injector seal kit cheaper then anywhere else ($20) where places like mx5parts.co.uk are charging 1.5 pounds per O ring. The kit has o-ring, upper seal, and low seal.

I can't see where to BB code for flickr anymore and I'm out of time to do updates.

[sailaholic]

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[plohl]

FM LBBK!

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[sailaholic]

Haha You know that's far more money the rebuilding the existing!

So no FM LBBK as much as I'd love to, though some people don't find the willwood callipers overly stiff.


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[plohl]

Different caplipers, dynalites supposedly aren't very stiff, dynapro are meant to be ok, not sure about LBBK calipers.


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[speed]

Comming along nicely.
So when you delete the air con you need a tube and ducting delete? Sounds like I need both of those!
Do you know if amayama sell both?
Thank you.

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[sailaholic]

You don't need the duct it's just lighter (which is generally why you'd remove ac)

So there are 3 plugs and the duct. All are sold by a amayama for about $30 plus shipping. - everything in that image is sold by amayama and at that price.


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[Magpie]

I have used round thermal/aluminium ducting and cable tied it on, works fine.

[ralt]

Hi.
Go to a wrecker who has early laser or 323 with no air conditioning and you will find the duct you require.

[sailaholic]

Thanks for there lnfo. Comes down to time vs money I guess.

For $26 I can't be bothered chasings wreckers and trying to get there when they are open when they are likely to want to charge all most as much of an aged one.


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