Datfreak's NA6 - bringing back the dead

[datfreak]

Na6 clutch should be fine of you use the na6 fly as well.
How much stuff do you need to complete the swap?

Cool - I'm hoping the b6 clutch will be enough, if I ever go turbo ill buy a stronger one.

Stuff needed for the swap - throttle body, water pump, idlers , cam belt ,gasket kit, thermostat relocation pipe, alternator w brackets.
I'd also like a bp exhaust cam so I can try the ex/in cam swap mod. (message me if someone has a spare one from a dead head)


I've ordered new injectors after reading alot of the pros and cons of different setups.

Going with new Ford GT500 EV14s. Rated at 600cc and are a standard ford/bosch part (not aftermarket) so if one dies I will be able to replace it easily and cheaply. Cost about $45 each plus post. The hats and electric plug adaptors came to about $50 for all 4.
THose interest here are some link for these -
65 x gt500 injectors flowed- with deadtimeshttp://www.miataturbo.net/engine-performance-56/gt500-injector-flow-rate-dead-time-data-83954/

A guy selling kits http://www.miataturbo.net/miata-parts-sale-trade-5/pnp-flow-matched-gt500-injectors-83178/

Another writeup with good pics http://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/ev14-gt500-630cc-injector-diy-79337/


Hopefully ive gotten the correct adaptors. I'll post some info when I get them sorted

[datfreak]

na6 na8 and gt500 injectors

Took 6 days to get here from the usa. Installed them tonight with a new filter.
I don't like the electrical adaptors - prefer to cut and join the new plug directly on the loom.

Running well so far

[datfreak]

Links for the gt500 injector setup-
injectors http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/291393299463
Electrical adapters http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171576694351
top hat adapters http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321849978814

Another option is http://www.flowforceinjectors.com/ - -this guy uses the same injectors but makes up kits with adaptors. He also sells flowed sets if the standard max 4% difference in flow rates is too high for you.

Notes on the new injectors.
They mounted up well. I will cut the standard mx5 plugs and join the new ev14 plugs directly when I have time. The electrical adapters work well but it would look at lot neater with the new plugs directly on the loom.
I cut off the black ring from the bottom of the inj - some of the writeups didnt mention this but it is required for fitment. Also the fuel rail needs a 2mm washer to not compress the injector when tightening.


The new injectors really changed the old tune - even after scaling the required fuel for the much bigger injectors the whole fuel map is wrong. Some of the map had to go up and some parts had to go down.
I still need to do more tuning but so far I have noticed better starting and the idle afrs like being leaner then before. Maybe this is due to the newer inj tech giving better spray pattern or being more precise.

[Cus]

Thanks for this!

The red adapters are easily worth 10kW!

[datfreak]

Some new parts for the 1.8







Ported head and 1mm oversized valves. Double eibach springs. Bucket lifters. HD clutch. Nice 4-1 headers.

I will send in the cams to get reground soon. Then relap the valves, shave the head, measure and get shims.
Still need to find 2001+ pistons and a few other parts.

The eibach springs are high pressure @ 75 lbs - I'm wondering if i could run just the outside spring?
Also the headers have a 2.25" outlet - Im thinking of cuting the collector at 2.5 and running this size to the back.

thanku to the forum members who helped me find these parts

[datfreak]

Driving home during the week and the car seemed a bit off. Bad idle, and I noticed the afr gauge was jumping around. I just installed a megasquirt 2, so I thought I needed to do some tuning.

Anyways - I plug the laptop in and find the battery voltage is 10v. So I rush home while watching the voltage slowly dropping. Lower and lower the voltage went.
At 8.5v a ms2 on a na6 will run very unwell- and at 8v it will die. See the end of my drive log - the lower graph red line is battery volts:



I coasted the last 200 metres home with a dead engine.

Today I went to the wreckers and searched thru alot of alternators.My plan was to find one with a inbuilt reg that would bolt up to the na6/na8 that was younger then the standard ones. Problem is nearly all of the newer (ie 2000+) ones use a external regulator (ecu).
Most of them have the same plug but the code 'T S' on the sticker is the type needed.
After 100's on alternators, I found a 2005 Kia Rio one. It has a multi v pulley that Ive removed and put on the na6 one, but I will swap the Kia one back when I rebuild the na8 engine.

I hope this info helps others on the chase for a newer compatible alternator.

btw this alt is covered in oil and grime. After these photos it came up looking newish after a degrease

[StanTheMan]

Sounds like you are wanting to build a screamer. 8000 rpm + ?

Would be courious on the cam specs you are thinking about?

[smy0003]

Hahaha the beauty of a standalone is being able to catch things like batt volts. I thought it was generally agreed upon that 2.25" is the best for an NA engine?

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

[datfreak]

Sounds like you are wanting to build a screamer. 8000 rpm + ?

Would be courious on the cam specs you are thinking about?

Not 8000+ sadly. The head with bucket lifters and the valve springs would do it easily but I'd have to go for a forged bottomend with aftermarket oilpump and front pulley. Its a lot of expense to get another 500-1000rpm of usable power at the topend. Also cams for power at those revs would be a bitch on the street.
Say 7500 redline and at that point Im still considering getting H beam rods. Just the ebay/china rods as it seems these are all some of the expensive name rebrand as their own. Still with arp bolts it would be another $400ish - so for my build its not a great bang for buck. In a turbo motor it would be $ well spent tho.
RE: Cam specs. Im thinking 10mm lift with a adv duration of about 270.With 0.050" duration of 220 - 230.
Will depend on what the cam regrinder says he can get out of it. I'm using 2 x na8 exhaust cams as the stock as they have more meat then the inlet ones. I'll do the excam mod when I get them back to make a in/ex pair. The bucket lifter will let me run a smaller base circle, so hopefully I can get the specs i want.

Hahaha the beauty of a standalone is being able to catch things like batt volts. I thought it was generally agreed upon that 2.25" is the best for an NA engine?

I was so lucky - 20 km drive home and I got to 200m from home before the engine cut.

RE: exhaust. I've done too much reading about 2.25 vs 2.5 pipes and seems people have mixed ideas.
Its thought that header manufacturers like racingbeat use 2.25" outlets as that is what spec "miata racing" requires. But for moderate to heavy modified 1.8s a 2.5" would be a better choice.
Say 1.8 engines with less than 150rwhp, 2.25" is good for low rpm power but with big cams, high CR, os valves and a higher redline the 2.5" will help the top end.
I'm not sure. It sure would be easier to leave the headers as 2.25 outlets then modify them needlessly.


Stuff needed for new 1.8 engine. Lightened 1.8 flywheel- high compression pistons, throw out bearing, valve sub shims, gaskets, main/rod bearings, water pump, cam belt, idlers, adj cam gears, valve seals, front 1.8 neck