Megasquirt owners thread

Cus · Postby **Cus** » Thu Apr 28, 2016 6:59 pm

Can you post those links again please sir?

if you hit "preview" then "post" they seem to be eaten (just hitting post lets them escape uneaten though)

bartmanftw · Postby **bartmanftw** » Thu Apr 28, 2016 7:18 pm

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1168 ... 2233581457

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/New-OEM-QUALIT ... nav=SEARCH

Hopefully they'll work this time.

Postby **beavis** » Fri Apr 29, 2016 12:38 am

I bought mine from a wreckers for a fraction of the ebay cost if you don't wanna fork out $150.

mistabush · Postby **mistabush** » Wed May 04, 2016 12:31 pm

I have a Diypnp ms2 with a micro squirt module.
I have been having nothing but nightmares trying to get the thing up and running. I had a tuner guy try and get it going with no luck. I got some help from a guy online and we updated the firmware put a new msq tune file on it
The ecu connects fine to tunerstudio but when connected in car it goes offline. If you try crank the car it will go online then. Any suggestions people???.

Cus · Postby **Cus** » Wed May 04, 2016 1:19 pm

beavis wrote:I bought mine from a wreckers for a fraction of the ebay cost if you don't wanna fork out $150.

Just scored one from a wreckers for $25, pretty chuffed!

Sent from my D5833 using Tapatalk

david_syd_au · Postby **david_syd_au** » Wed May 04, 2016 1:34 pm

mistabush wrote:I have a Diypnp ms2 with a micro squirt module.
I have been having nothing but nightmares trying to get the thing up and running. I had a tuner guy try and get it going with no luck. I got some help from a guy online and we updated the firmware put a new msq tune file on it
The ecu connects fine to tunerstudio but when connected in car it goes offline. If you try crank the car it will go online then. Any suggestions people???.

Have you checked there is a reliable & clean voltage supply to the MS in the car?

Cus · Postby **Cus** » Tue May 24, 2016 5:22 pm

A couple of questions!

Looking through my log from a drive this morning, WUE comes on randomly as CLT gets below 80 degrees, then the temp goes back up to 81ish and WUE goes off. Highest temp I had was 82, which was right at the start of the log (drove around town, paid rent and blah blah, pulled over at the start of the 100 zone and started logging) After about a minute the CLT had dropped back down to 79, and WUE was on.

Is this a matter of tapering off the WUE curve a little bit, or is 80 just far too cold? (the temp gets up if i get stuck into the go-pedal, but "trying to get the engine off WUE" isn't going to be an acceptable answer to "why are you speeding, sir?")

Next question, On the highway yolo'n along at the speed limit, I'm sitting smack-bang in the middle of two columns - is it worth moving the columns around to get my cruise speed into the middle of a cell? (theory being it will be easier to tune for economy if I'm in the middle of a column)

bartmanftw · Postby **bartmanftw** » Tue May 24, 2016 5:30 pm

Is your thermostat working? Shouldn't really be seeing lower than thermostat temp if the car is warmed up.
You can change the warm up enrichment table to set what temperature it stops enriching at. I wouldn't just go and reduce it without first checking what warm-up enrichment values you need. You can auto-tune the warm-up enrichment curve.

No real point to move the column scaling. The ecu interpolates the values between cells.

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Wed May 25, 2016 12:32 pm

Cus wrote:Is this a matter of tapering off the WUE curve a little bit, or is 80 just far too cold? (the temp gets up if i get stuck into the go-pedal, but "trying to get the engine off WUE" isn't going to be an acceptable answer to "why are you speeding, sir?")

Next question, On the highway yolo'n along at the speed limit, I'm sitting smack-bang in the middle of two columns - is it worth moving the columns around to get my cruise speed into the middle of a cell? (theory being it will be easier to tune for economy if I'm in the middle of a column)

Be certain that your thermo sensor and calibration in the ECU is correct. Simple test is to put the sensor in a boiling pot of water - it should be bang on 100 in the ecu and that's a good way to confirm if you are getting a valid temp reading. The WUE is based off the temp sensor in the ECU so if that's wrong, then WUE will be coming in early etc.

As for changing bins... don't bother. MS2 and MS3 use interpolation to derive a 100x resolution between bins and bin values. So what looks like 3250 rpm with 44 VE is really a ramp towards 3500 RPM and 45 VE in the next bin (and behind) - with resolution from 44.00 through to 44.99 and same for RPM etc... I'd not worry about it as there is no step between bin, just ramps!

The one thing you should do is remove big ramps... ie smooth the VE table so that going from 45 VE to 60 VE is very rare. Most VE tables should be generally flat with small steps between bins. Use the 3D view to get a sense for the steepness of the curve.

G

Cus · Postby **Cus** » Wed May 25, 2016 7:11 pm

Thanks Gents!

The reason I ask was MSL was adjusting two different columns, but if it's a linear ramp between all bins (and now i think about it, that makes a lot of sense) it'll always be adjusting more than one bin, even if i'm somehow managing to hold it in the exact middle.

I think the temp issue is more related to holding a steady speed at almost no load for many minutes at a time. I had been using the "mazda" CLT calibration option in TS, changed the values to the ones on the DIY setup guide, and while they were different values, the base resistance was also about half, so all-in-all, the net result was the tempreature stayed the same in the logs. I did get him up into the 90s today though, and after sitting over night it's within a couple of degrees of the IAT sensor, so it "probably works" - I do need to do stuff near the CLT sensor soon so I'll actually test it when I'm on the job.

CPekel · Postby **CPekel** » Fri Jun 03, 2016 5:04 pm

Hey guys!
Bought a 1990 1.6 that has a mega squirt and cops installed. The cops were wired up pretty roughly but worked until recently, when what I believe was a short caused one of the coils to stop firing. I pulled all the wiring off from the copacitor onwards (right near where it comes out of the body) and remade a new neater cops wiring according to the Miata turbo insturctions. I've soldered connectors to the wires coming out of the body.
Now, when I turn the key I get no spark at all. It's very strange as I have wired it up correctly (tripled checked the resistance on them all and they are all correct). Any ideas what could have gone wrong? Could a short have killed a relay or something? Is there anyone in Sydney who is cluey and wants to make some cash? I am seriously at wits end, car has not been dríven in 3 weeks and no auto electrician wants to touch it

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Fri Jun 03, 2016 10:22 pm

The short may have damaged the ignitor if it is still being used (but normally it isn't) - so other option is ECU damage.

Have you thought about putting everything back to stock to confirm?

G

Cus · Postby **Cus** » Wed Jun 15, 2016 8:35 am

I made a tune file comparison tool thingy-ma-bob.

It will compare the IGN/VE/AFR maps of two MSQ files, and has pretty colours.

It can read MS2 & MS3 MSQ files, but not MS1 files because they use different table names, and I'm lazy. (If someone really wants MS1 support, I work for bribes, beers or boobs)

It can compare two different maps and will interpolate "middle" bins fairly well - if one map has RPM at 2500 & 3000, and a second one has 2750 & 3250, it will work out what the values of the bins should be based on nearby bins, then compare them.

You can play with it here: http://lucas.fitt.net.au/msThingy/