Cus' NA6

[smy0003]

Looks good!
I'm sure there are other write ups of megasquirt building, and I've seen gslenders write up (it's fantastic), but where's the rambling??

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

[Cus]

Rambling you want? Rambling you'll get!

There are questions in here for people that know things. *summons the knowledgeable*

Little Red backfired this morning when I tried to start it (it was just a small "voomp" backfire - most of the ones I've heard in the past were when dad was building motors, some of those ones were like shotguns going off) Anyway, I had to crank over for a full second before it started (usually it's three "rirrs" and it fires), then it sounded like it was missing for a few seconds, then came good, and proceeded to behave itself all day. Sort of. The idle seems a bit ... burble-y at times. While driving it seems fine. I drove nearly 250kms today (I was a day early to the mx5 vic club run in ballarat because i didn't look what the date was) and then ducked over to bendigo to buy new plugs (which I actually forgot to do because i got distracted trying to find a idler pulley for the A/C belt, which nobody seems to be able to sell me - if someone knows a part number, I'll exchange it for this piece of string I found)

Maybe three or four times in the last couple of months I've gone to start it and - for lack of a better way of explaining it - the starter has stalled and it's like the engine gets stuck. letting go of the key and starting it again results in three "rirrs" and a start. I'm now thinking this was a pre-cursor to this morning's backfire event.

I posted on facebook about it and got told to check my leads and plugs. The leads are visually fine, the plugs looked like this: (note the colour differences of the bottom photos are due to having the camera set to 'auto' so they're 4 different exposures, which is why #1 looks really burnt) I found a post by Dann saying that 1.6s run lean from the factory under about 4k, which is where I spend most of my time these days due to speed limits and living miles away from anywhere interesting, which seems to be why they're so white on the ends - but #2 does seem to be a little bit darker.



Someone also mentioned a leaky injector, so I gave those a visual inspection The worst one has a patch around it like something has been weeping out, but not like it's a full-blown leak. All of them do have marks around them like they've seeped a little bit of fuel, then dust has settled on it. Would this be the result of a 26 year old car needing new injector o-rings? It might be time to resurrect the fuel usage spreadsheet and see if I've been using more fuel - however rough guesses at the servo don't indicate that I am, I've never smelled fuel, and the puddle does not seem to be big enough to indicate a leak-leak.

This was inj #3




So, once the ECU is built, the ignition system is being swapped out entirely, so that will solve itself in a round-about fashion. The injection system is being procrastinated on, but by the looks of the marks, it needs doing sooner rather than later.

So, on the topic of injectors....

I've settled on either Bosch EV14s, or Injector Dynamics, in either 725cc or 1000cc. At the moment (and for as long as possible into the future) the engine is keeping stock internals. By my calculations until I do rebuild the motor I'm not likely to wind in enough boost to run out of fuel on the 725's - but that's not accounting for things like Acceleration Enrichment, I've absolutely no idea how much extra duty cycle that will want.

Next questions:

What physical size injectors do I need? As best I can tell they're the 60mm long ones, with 11mm diameter - is this correct?

The big selling point of the IDs is that they're flow tested and sold in matched sets, but most of the sites I've found seem to sell them as single items. Where does one buy a "set" of IDs? Is that even a thing, or have I read one too many posts on MT?

Finally: ID injectors are "just" reworked EV14 injectors. (more complicated than that, I know, but keeping this brief ) but because I can't seem to find sets of ID injectors, I've been thinking of just getting some EV14s. But part of all of this deep thought (ie: procrastination) is a desire to only spend money once, so the injectors I buy now ideally shouldn't need to be replaced at whatever time I decide to rebuild the motor and wind the boost up to "holy sh*t" - but then the immediate issue is minimum pulse-width, the IDs are known for being able to run really small PW (ie; to make an unboosted stock 1.6 idle nicely) - does this characteristic come from the EV14s, or is it part of the modification ID does to their injectors?

If that's the case, am I better off just going with the EV14 725s for the moment, and including new injectors in the cost of the rebuild when the time comes - or would a set of ID1000s be everything I'm going to need, starting from a stock, unboosted engine right through to a built + boosted engine?

Right, that's enough rambling. Tag you're collectively "it"!

[Cus]

Too much rambling?

Coming back to this after ignoring it for a day and letting the brain settle, I've worked it out.

The size I need is 60mm long and 11mm, or ID part number "1000.11.02.60.11.4" - which is actually on their website if you scroll enough....

Some vendors sell them individually, some sell them as matched sets. Emails have been sent.

In other news; I re-adjusted (first gently with vice-grips, then violently with hammer & dolly) the brake stone shields on the rears of the car, after swapping in the bigger brakes they would randomly catch little stones and grind away at the rotor until i pulled over and fished the stones out. I also fixed the brake pad rattle on the rear/right this afternoon by bending the little metal clips that hold the pads in place out a little, so they actually hold the pad. It was a PITA to put the pad back in, but it's stopped rattling around and giving me the sh!ts. I was all set to drop the coolant and swap out the bottom radiator hose which leaks whenever it feels like it, but it started to spit. Looking up indicated that death was about to fall from the sky, so I put the car back on the ground and packed up the tools. By the time this was done, the death had blown over and there was blue sky.

[datfreak]

Ive new ev14 injectors ordered from a ford gt500. Good for 600cc (which is all i'm ever going to use) With adaptors they came to about $260.

Some links and info on the last page of my build thread here:
http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=68039&start=60

btw my standard injectors went crap after I'd ran e85 for a month.

[Cus]

Bah. I had a whole post type up and the computer ate it.

DatFreak; they look like good cheap options, where do we find them locally? A quick google'n pointed towards importing from the US, which would un-cheapen them very quickly lol

Just after lunch:


Not long after just after lunch:


Just after dinner:


...it talks to the computer and has a firmware and a basemap. I still need to do a couple of wires here and there for the external map instead of the onboard one, and I'll be laughing.

Then we put it in the car and see what happens

[Nevyn72]

I still need to do a couple of wires here and there for the external map instead of the onboard one, and I'll be laughing.

Then we put it in the car and see what happens

That's usually when the laughing stops and the crying/shouting/jumping up and down/begging/pleading/lookng for some petrol and a match begins......

[datfreak]

The gt500s came to about $210 inc post from the USA. Took 6 days to arrive after ordering. I can send you the eBay link if that helps?
The adaptors both electrical and top hats came to $50 from Australia sellers.

[Cus]

Please do datfreak, I'm backpedaling from that can of worms until I close the ECU can of worms first, but they look like a damn good choice for 95% of people that want/need new injectors (current-gen injectors, cheap, flow rates supporting 250ish HP) so a link is going to be useful to at least one of us

That's usually when the laughing stops and the crying/shouting/jumping up and down/begging/pleading/lookng for some petrol and a match begins......

Confusion at the moment.... lol If I blindly followed the instructions and did as I was told, I'd probably have it in the car by now. But I keep poking things with the multimeter and seeing what pins things in the car show up on in the ECU - for example, about half of the pins in the Mass Airflow unit show up on both ground and 5v in the ECU. I don't know why. Or care anymore. I'm just rolling with it.

I didn't actually get much of anything useful accomplished today, pulled the stock ECU and did a trial-fit of the MS3 into the case. I had to cut these little tabs off the corners:



Board sans MS3 module:


Board with MS3 module: Excuse the two random wires coming out the back, that's so I can power it up on the bench.


Made pin maps of unused pins in the OEM ECU harness so I could wrap my head around some things. Head is wrapped.

Connector #1:


Connector #2:


As and Bs as you can see aren't empty, they're just a point of reference. Inside the ECU 2Y, 2Z, 1M and 1L all go places - 2Y & 2Z are for sequential injection, 1M goes to DI2 on the MS3, on the 1.8s this is VSS. On the 1.6 it's an empty socket. 1L goes to the unused side of the Fan jumpers. Everything else pretty much does what you'd expect. (ie; nothing)

Tested all of my sensors with an arduino, because why not? I may have a dodgy TPS, seem to go from 5% to 80% almost instantly. I'll see how it behaves on the car, the test situation wasn't exactly ideal, I held all the wires in one hand, and used a screwdriver to turn the TPS. We'll find out soon enough.

[speed]

Regarding the sequential injection, I thought I had to run new wires from the ecu to the injector loom. Yours appears to tap into stock na6 wires.
Is that correct? I'm not that great with electronics

[Cus]

It does indeed tap into the stock wires - but that's why I've marked out which pins are empty in the stock loom I've got some empty pins to put wires on and stick in the holes, I'll be hack'n'slashing the engine bay of the loom to make the new wires attach to things when the time is right.

I'll be running an extra pair of wires from 2Y + 2Z for seq injection, and an extra pair from probably 2S and 2T for seq spark, and an extra wire out to the MAP sensor. That will leave me 5 spare pins I can populate in the future, while retaining the OEM wiring.

There should be, in theory, a wire that goes to the MAF that I can re-purpose for the MAP, but I can't "find" it (I can find it, it's in the engine bay , but it does not come out where I expected in the ECU) As they say, practice is what you get when the theory doesn't work!

As an aside, I started reading "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell last night. I accidentally got sucked in, then suddenly it was 2:30am...

[datfreak]

Please do datfreak, I'm backpedaling from that can of worms until I close the ECU can of worms first, but they look like a damn good choice for 95% of people that want/need new injectors (current-gen injectors, cheap, flow rates supporting 250ish HP) so a link is going to be useful to at least one of us

No probs - ill list the ebay sources on my build thread.
Another option is http://www.flowforceinjectors.com/ - -this guy uses the same injectors but makes up kits with adaptors. He also sells flowed sets if the standard 4% difference in flow rates is too high for you

[Cus]

Thank you Sir!

// ECU Diary continues //

Today I pulled the extractors off and took them to the local exhaust shop to have a new o2 bung put in.

Took some photos of my exhaust ports, because I can.




I seem to have a fair amount of oil that's not in the block. That's future-cus' problem.

While I was under the car I did notice my tail shaft has wrecker's writing on it. The P.O. did mention replacing the diff at some point in the car's past, I just assumed he meant with another NA6 diff (and at the time, I didn't know enough about MX5s to know that there was a better option) - but seeing a different tail shaft in the car makes me mildly optimistic it may have a 1.8 rear end. Given it revs it's tits off while highway cruising, it's probably a 4.3 Ratio diff and therefore not a 1.8 diff. But there's always hope.

ANYWAY.

Back to the o2 bungs.
Here's the old one with a cap and a spot weld:


Here's the new one:


And a shot of the full extractors, because why not:


Pulled them off and walked into town playing air guitar on them. The locals probably think I'm strange now.

They're covered in WD40, and full of metal shavings, tomorrow I'll try my hand at cleaning them out with some degreaser or something - there's a nursing home 150 meters east of me, so my initial plan of "just start it up without the exhaust on and let the extractors blow-dry themselves" probably isn't going to win me any friends. So, plan B) Manual labour.

Before the darkness and the coldness set it, I started running the extra wires I need from near the ECU to the engine bay. There was a grommit made out of silicon that's been poked out, I now have enough room to have a party in there. "Grommit" has been added to my shopping list.

More photos and rambling on the morrow!

[Cus]

Today was a looonnngggg day. In classic Cus fashion I didn't do much, but it took me all day.

Cleaned the metal shavings out of the extractors with the help of some wax & grease remover.

The short I mentioned a few posts ago between GND and +5 on the adapter board was a side-effect of having the board wired for a VTPS and having the stock TPS still plugged in. Short goes away when the VTPS is plugged in (or the stock TPS is unplugged at least)

It seems as though the MEN/FEN pins in the diag connector just go to the ECU and without the factory ECU, they're free wires into the engine bay, so they're now 5V and Sensor GND in the engine bay (WBo2 + MAP need them) TEN does something, I don't remember - it's written in my book. +B is the same power rail that powers the ECU, so that's the WBo2 power. The Diag plug looks quite dodgy at the moment, I'll lop it off and make it look nice once I confirm the car starts.

The wires I've run through the firewall are far too big in diameter to fit into the back of the OEM ECU plug, you need little ones.

It only takes two hours of a youtube random music playlist before you end up hearing taylor swift.

Tomorrow I check my work and see if it works, now it's time for food, wild turkey and sleep - probably not in that order.

[smy0003]

Cus, I literally spend my morning draining the rad to do nothing.
You've achieved more than me.

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

[Cus]

You're always doing nothing before you do something ;)



About to go next door and ask Mr Neighborman if he can turn the key while I check the timing, after another coffee of course....