ManiacLachy wrote:The want for an ECU is very very strong.
I'm hearing ya!. The more I read through these SE threads, the more I'm convinced it's the way to go. Now who's got those winning Lotto numbers for next week?
ManiacLachy wrote:You need an overlay of your stock tune with the "good bit" and your current tune. It would really highlight the difference. Was anything else done to the engine/intake/exhuast between the two dynos?
You asked so here you go! Photoshop skillz
Nothing done between dyno runs except NitroDann tuned Adaptronic ECU, MAC valve and boost increase to 12psi.
Also remember there's been a good 6months between dyno runs and tyre pressures and other factors effect the result. Dynos are a tuning tool, so will always have variances between runs on different days. As I said I reckon the true output is in the 175-180hp range.
The biggest thing I like about this tune is the difference between 3600rpm and 5500rpm compared to the factory tune. Makes driving so much more responsive in any gear and your not waiting till 5000rpm for the fun to start!
You can also see the purple torque curve show where the asthmatic intake chokes the turbo and it runs out of puff after 5500rpm.
I'm going to have to save it to my phone to help in explaining to people why the car needs an ECU. I'm guessing my car is somewhere between those two lines (closer to the green than the red), but with the "good bit" hump still in play.
Finally got a chance to do a track day since installing my radiator ducting. A max of 11 degrees was forcast at Marulan, but as I had previously had well over 100 degrees coolant temps towards the end of session in colder temps there, it would still be a good test.
I am very happy to say that even after 3 sessions with the car doing double rounds and pushing as hard as I could, the temps never went over 93 degrees all day!! WooHoo Success!! I was finally able to concentrate on my driving rather than always keeping one eye on the gauge, and it showed in my lap times being very consistent. So I went home very happy on the weekend.
I attribute a lot of the cooling abilities to this panel in the ducting: The turn up in front of the radiator. Look at the gap that's normally there between the bottom of the radiator and the underpanel!
Wakefield on a hot day will be a great test but I am very confident this has done the job with the cooling!
Conclusion: Consistency getting better, car staying cool, need proper tyres, front left rotor developed shudder later in the day.
Good timing with Yokohama having a buy 3 get 1 free deal on AD08Rs so that will be happening soon. Also just had some Carbotech XP10's and DBA 4000 HD rotors turn up. Just waiting for Mania to get the braided brake lines made up and then find somewhere local to do a rebuild on the front calipers and install the lines while they are there. The calipers seem fine, no leaking but the rubber dust seals have holes in them and the slide pins need replacing so thought I may as well get all the seals replaced while the braided lines and rotors/pads are getting installed. It is due for brake fluid to be replaced as well so this all lined up perfectly (wallets feeling sad though!)
Really looking forward to the next club track day whenever that will be!
Also decided last week when swapping pads over to sand back and repaint the front calipers as there was some paint missing thanks to a high pressure sprayer. Sanded, sanded, sanded some more, cleaned up as best I could and took my time painting. Also removed the brackets and painted them properly this time (Last time I painted everything still attached) Also painted the air ducts black and gave the rest of the wheel well a good clean down. After the weekends round trip and track day, it's all filthy again
Great to see that your ducting worked out for you. Was it a pain in the arse to do? I've been dragging the chain on doing it, even though I know I really need to. This is just more evidence for me to get off my arse!
No wasn't difficult to do at all, just took time, but if I didn't have access to the sheet metal bender I would have struggled personally. If you don't have an industrial sheet metal bender you can do the bending by clamping the metal between two lengths of hardwood.
I think the hardest part was figuring out how to secure the drivers side, side panel to the radiator so that it turned the air towards the radiator but didn't rub or vibrate. Theres not really anything there to bolt too. Nutsert into the upright would work if you have a nutserterer
Main thing is create a template with cardboard or coreflute first.
Oh and a nibbler that doesn't break on the first cut would make life easier too
The main middle section that turns up in front of the radiator and follows the flow of the undertray to the bumper is the easiest part and I would start there.
One thing I will be keeping an eye on now is brake temps (assuming the temp markings on my new DBA rotors are accurate) as the ducting will have removed some of the airflow to the rotors. Nothing a bit of hose through the ducting can't fix when the time comes.
Enjoyed your video watching you reel me in bit by bit ............ but I was in a relaxed mood so waved you through
Did you consider the Advan 050's instead of the 080's ? They are a proper R spec, I think the 080 treadwear is 180 (?) Of course they are more expensive but they seem to be the weapon of choice at supersrints on all types of cars. Just a thought. Cheers
Didn't really look at the 050's as I beleive they are full R spec so probably not the best for street driving, as I usually have a 700km round trip from home to Wakefield or Marulan Too late anyway as I've got a set of the AD08R's on order in Yokohamas 4 for 3 deal
Now what to do with the KU31's.... Where can I legally do a burnout around here? oh nowhere? great....ahh I'll just go up to Cessnock
Last event I participated in was the MX-5 Club Hillclimb at Ringwood. I had the tyres, brake lines, rotors and pads fitted including the front calipers rebuilt before the event. Carbotech recommend only running plain faced rotors with their pads. Can honestly say that they work brilliantly. Other than some squealing when cold, you wouldn't know they were race pads in daily driving. Even at the hill climb with a cold start they performed perfectly. Yet to do a full track day though. Also sorted out the suspension issue I was having. Basically the rear left and front right coilover body length was adjusted considerably shorter than the opposite corners. This compressed the springs on the opposite corners meaning the ride height was near identical all round and I was none the wiser....until I turned hard left on corners and the RL lifted a wheel. Here's a sample of what I was experiencing: Left rear lifting well before the right.
Worked that out with some excellent help from the forum, reset all corners to equal length and then set height and WOW, what a difference on the track! At previous hill climb practice days I couldn't get through any left hander without instantly braking traction, now it feels like it use to, traction everywhere, so confidence inspiring! Adding in the AD08Rs was night and day vs the KU31's. So much wider too even though both are 205's. Very happy with my purchases! As an added bonus to having so much more grip everywhere now and being so much more confident in the cars ability (and overjoyed inside that I wasn't lighting up the rears on every corner), I managed outright fastest lap on the day, just keeping ahead of Patrick in his supercharged NA Even the wife was enjoying the car and got some nice quick times!
After the hill climb I decided it was time to upgrade the coilovers. Despite being perfectly happy with the Yellowspeeds, I knew I was using them outside of what they were designed for so started looking for more track orientated coilovers. After discussions with Josh from MCA we decided that the XR series was best for me with 10/6kg springs. Also optioned the "Stealth" all black colour as I wasn't a fan of seeing the yellow body of the Yellowspeeds through the rims so definitely didn't want purple
Only got installed last week (did the rears myself, so easy to do! and got a shop to do the fronts). Other than driving them home I haven't had a chance to really test them out, but they feel much more compliant over rough roads even though the front is now a heavier spring. You still feel the bumps but they are more cushy. The wife will be happy
Wow, some serious money there. Your car is comming along nicely Also interesting reading your feedback re the previous yellowspeeds. What were they like on road and would they handle mild track duties?
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NA6 turbo - 140kw atw - not the most powerful but so much fun