A NB8B Turbo progress.

[IanR]

Ian, what was the source of the temp reading?
Factory sensor via the MS or aftermarket sensor located where?

Are you using the Tridon high flow thermostat?

Yes factory sensor and the high flow tridon.

[IanR]

nice job fitting the new soft top - I believe it's not an easy task to do and complete

Thanks, it's not hard just flying blind as The first time takes some thinking as instructions provided are sparse. That's said the prestige top was a perfect fit, spot on to the mm. That makes it easy.

[beavis]

Do you think a reroute is in order Dann?

I'm actually surprised you haven't done one already.

[NitroDann]

A reroute will certainly help, but at 330odd hp you will still need the vented bonnet also.

Dann

[bear2230]

We are working on a Aussie made venting system at the moment.
Expect to have laser cut prototypes this week as well as a mounting template similar to what's available from OS

Richard.

[forcedfive]

I am interested to see what you come up with Richard and if you make them available to others.

[IanR]

Motorkhana yesterday with nsw mx5 club round 1.
Car setup was excellent, and did pretty well in the placings.

Not great footage, outside would be better but this is what I grabbed.

[Roadrunner]

We are working on a Aussie made venting system at the moment.
Expect to have laser cut prototypes this week as well as a mounting template similar to what's available from OS

Richard.

I would be very interested in this!

89 at the front is probably 93 at the rear where the sensor is.

If you want cooler highway temps run a lower temp thermostat or a reroute.

I thought previous experience (Roadrunner, but I could be mistaken) had found the coolant was actually hotter at the thermostat exit point to the radiator than at the back of the engine where the factory temp sensor is located.

Yes I am monitoring temps at both the factory ECU spot (rear of head) and the top radiator hose (exit/outlet to radiator).
On the track both temps are roughly the same and increase together until about 98 degrees. At this point the rear seems to peak and stay around the 100deg mark while the exit temp just keeps steadily climbing.
Like Ian experienced, this is usually only into the 4-5th lap and by the end of session the exit temp will be anywhere as high as 110degs while the rear is still at 100.

On the cool down lap the temps drops quickly, but rear temp will only drop when the exit temp is below 100degrees (where they both drop together at a similar rate). By the time I enter pit lane both temps are down to 88degrees.

Looking through my logs for Wakefield, the highest temp recorded at the rear was 100degs flat. The front/exit temp highest was 112degrees.

This is a massive improvement from before I got the Adaptronic installed. I use to see 112degs at the rear on the factory ecu at the track! (exit temp must have been off the chart! )
Now the rear temp stays in an acceptable temp range for an entire session and I was super happy about that, until I installed a sensor at the engine exit (where the water is the hottest), now I am concerned about that water temp reading getting up there.

Ian has inspired me to get off my backside and do some ducting

[IanR]

Are you running a coolant reroute Josh? I like how you have monitored temps at the two ends of the motor.

I had some drama's with my cooling system at the motorkhana... Turned out I had a split coolant hose from the throttle body...found it at a blacktown service station when I was searching to replace the radiator cap, which I was suspecting as the cause of the water losses ( leaking seal, burping water out the overflow tank ). Thankfully the attendant had a pair of scissors and blunt nose pliers...and I could drive home without loosing another 3 litres.

I wonder what effect the high temps of the track day has had, as it also cooked the o-ring in my turbosmart BOV, on the drive home anything near 15psi I would be getting a screaming sound...turns out the bov leaks above 15psi when tested off the car (bicycle track pump), a new o-ring and it will go back on the car to reduce the mx from sounding like Jabba the Hut after a mexican binge out.

...I'm booked in with Dann this friday to install his full reroute kit which includes the front neck delete and delete some of the unnecessary coolant lines (see who bites)... Ill take up some Al plate and more foam sealing tape to get all the gaps sorted.

A full reroute, sealed mouth gaps and bonnet vents "should" get me in the clear, and maybe remove the mesh in front of the IC too.

[IanR]

Thanks to Grant from the Hunter Club for the pics.

[beavis]

delete some of the unnecessary coolant lines (see who bites)...

I'll bite.
They're all unnecessary with the exception of the ones between the motor and the radiator.

[IanR]

delete some of the unnecessary coolant lines (see who bites)...

I'll bite.
They're all unnecessary with the exception of the ones between the motor and the radiator.

yeah that's what I read in between a large belief in water cooled turbo's needing, must have, and your turbo dies in 10 seconds without water lines...or at least when you have cheap mineral oil that's 30,000k old and then run full boost for 10mins and immediately shut the motor down...

[beavis]

I have opted to run water lines to my turbo, although Dann suggests it's not necessary. I will work the car harder than the average driver so I consider it extra insurance.

[IanR]

Water lines are just another thing to fail and if they are not needed I'm happy to press delete. That said, at first it seemed 'tupid to remove something as seemingly important aspect of the turbo's design, water cooling, but once I got past the discomfort with the idea that the water does very little actually it seems pretty evident. The turbo can hit 900deg, what some stationary water (at shut off) is going to do to cool it down is very small, and when the motor is running even at idle its 300deg...

[Nevyn72]

And there I was thinking you were talking about the lines that run via the throttle body and oil filter cooler......