MADJAK's NA8 - 200+HP N/A

rascal · Postby **rascal** » Wed Feb 03, 2016 9:55 am

Hi Mark,

True, I have seen the zerks option to help with the greasing however Madjaks solution virtually eliminates the stiction that is still present in the poly bushes even immediately after greasing once you torque the bolts up, so am leaning towards that solution..

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Wed Feb 03, 2016 10:08 am

Agreed, I'm waiting to see if Madjack makes his bushes available as well

speed · Postby **speed** » Wed Feb 03, 2016 5:26 pm

Madjak, personally I believe that you should be awarded pioneer of 2015!!!
Your ideas are inventive, yet well thought out.
Please keep up t he brilliant work

madjak · Postby **madjak** » Wed Feb 03, 2016 6:40 pm

haha... it might look that way but it's nothing like that. I just make up stuff as I go! I get one night a week in the workshop and maybe some time on the weekend and so I'm slowly evolving my car a bit at a time. I really like making things, ie hacksawing, milling, lathing, grinding... so if I can DIY-it I will.

madjak · Postby **madjak** » Wed Feb 03, 2016 6:45 pm

I won my class in the WA CAMS Speed Event Series which was awesome. I'm going to have a tougher time this year competing against a very very fast Lotus Elise S1 but I'm up for the challenge.

I got a nice framed picture as a trophy.

rascal · Postby **rascal** » Wed Feb 03, 2016 7:12 pm

It's not that hard to spell Mazda right is it..... :roll:

madjak · Postby **madjak** » Wed Feb 03, 2016 8:01 pm

yeah there were a few spelling errors on the trophies. Bit embarrassing when you get a trophy and it says "2014" instead of "2015" or your name is wrong. Madza isn't that bad considering...

rascal · Postby **rascal** » Wed Feb 03, 2016 8:03 pm

at least they got the important bits right. 'Rick Grigsby' and 'State Champion'

Postby **beavis** » Wed Feb 03, 2016 9:57 pm

If we're posting links to bushes.
http://www.miataturbo.net/suspension-br ... ion-87573/

datfreak · Postby **datfreak** » Fri Feb 05, 2016 9:59 pm

Madjak, im hoping to makeup a intake manifold and was curious how long the runners are on yours?

Did you angle the pipes up for clearance or to keep the flow in a straight line to the valves?

Your dyno results are awesome - well done getting the car to this level

Ice88 · Postby **Ice88** » Sat Feb 06, 2016 2:10 am

datfreak wrote:Madjak, im hoping to makeup a intake manifold and was curious how long the runners are on yours?

Did you angle the pipes up for clearance or to keep the flow in a straight line to the valves?

Your dyno results are awesome - well done getting the car to this level

Manifold was hitting the suspension tower reinforcements from memory. IIRC it was 11 degrees that it was inclined on, if you read his post about it, here and on miataturbo it all becomes clear.

madjak · Postby **madjak** » Sat Feb 06, 2016 2:21 am

I need to measure it properly which is a bit tricky because the runners are slightly curved. I'll be working on the car this weekend so I'll double check the angle. The head angles back a bit plus you need to angle the intake upwards to clear the chassis especially to clear the tps. You could cut that little vertical seam weld on the chassis for a bit more room.

In my case the angles of the runners ended up lining up to the ported head perfectly.... just by luck.

If you are planning this mod you'd be best to set up the manifold and slowly trim down the angle until you get it to sit where you want. I have urethane engine mounts so the engine doesn't move much but if you have rubber mounts you might need slightly more clearance.

madjak · Postby **madjak** » Sun Feb 07, 2016 2:09 pm

I installed the last bits of my rear end start of season do over. I'm slowly upgrading bits of my car.

DIY rear end links. Picked up some M10 CrMo rod ends and I just tapped the inside of some steel tube I had. Filed some flats onto the surface so I can lock the nuts. Both threads are the same direction which means you have to remove them to adjust... its not much of an issue since I don't really alter the ride height very often.

DIY rear sway bar mounts. I couldn't hammer the old mounting studs out of the subframe so I just drilled new holes and fitted the mounts between them. Mounted up nice and snug and a quick spray of the sway bar itself has tidied it all up a bit. I really need to clean up the subframe but that will have to wait until the end of this year. The old rubber mounts were falling apart and the sway bar had heaps of slack. These delrin mounts should stop the bar slopping around.

AST dual adjustable shocks. I needed to mount the remote reservoirs a little better than just cable tying them to the sway bar as shown in a few posts back... So I made these little brackets. One of my favourite jobs is to make some random lightweight bracket out of scraps. No machines required, just a hacksaw, files and a drill. These brackets are designed for hose clamps but I'll use cable ties first and see how long they last, since they are nice and light.

madjak · Postby **madjak** » Sun Feb 07, 2016 4:29 pm

DIY wheel alignment setup.

Here is my $30 wheel alignment rig. Its made from two spacer bars which are 1.8m long aluminium SHS tube from Bunnings. I got the section with the little 5mm lip along the length. At each end I cut a thin slot 5mm from the end. These slots locate the builders string and are equall spacing front and back so that the strings on each side are held in position and are parallel.

I bent 4 straps (2 at each end) out of 20 x 3mm flat bar and riveted them into the spacer bars with 2 rivets on each side so that the strings hang at the centerline of the hubs. The spacer bars need to be fairly rigid so they can't wiggle side to side but you can slide the entire rig at each end to get the car symetrical in between the strungs.

I place the car up on 120mm block spacers and pull on the handbrake nice and hard as well as putting the engine in gear. If you are doing this be very carefull that the car can't slid or roll off the blocks. My tyres here are set to 24psi so the blocks indent into the tread a bit. Its not ideal for accuracy but it stops any risk of the tyres sliding off the blocks. It's probably safest to put some spare wheels underneath the car in case the car moves.

Once the car is up in the air I jump up and down on the sills to get the shocks to settle. I then measure the sills to check the target ride height. Tow and camber are easy to adjust when the car is up in the air. You can easily get to the bolts withput knocking the strings. It just so happens that my front rims sit at exactly 100mm from the string at each side, so toe adjustments are simple. Camber measurment requires a big woodworking angle that sits between blocks... I'll do that adjustment tonight so I'll upload photos of that setup shortly.