Wanting quicker acceleration NC with cosworth Supercharger

[Guran]

Or fit a CVT gearbox! Always at peak torque when flat throttle. It's what they put in the WRX these days.

[hks_kansei]

Change of driving habits insofar as anticipating to change gears much sooner than usual, is needed.

More power and/or faster gearing will always cause faster revving, it's simply the nature of things.

The only way to achieve fast acceleration WITHOUT the engine revving as fast or high is to have a high capacity engine, or diesel.

I actually saw one of the Aussie complainced V8 ones at a hot rod show the other day.

turns out our market gets a hideous rollbar just behind the doors (think PT cruiser convertible style.....)

[Mr nanotech]

How much do you weigh? If you can stand to lose 10-15kg then its a great start. No point removing weight from the car if you are just going to put it back in sitting in the drivers seat

[Novice1]

Or fit a CVT gearbox! Always at peak torque when flat throttle. It's what they put in the WRX these days.

CVT gearboc, 4:1 diff, more expensive than $90 pulley and $90 for retune,

Novice1

[trickytrev]

Always cheaper cheaper to rebuild motor before it blows up

[sjmarcy]

What is the actual in-car acceleration. Level road, in one gear, from one speed to another. Use a phone app or video gages failing that. Record weather conditions. Done right and u'll have a decent baseline that is much more useful than the butt dyno.

[Novice1]

Any particular phone app U would recommend.

Currently have I-phone.

Cheers Novice1

[sjmarcy]

For iOS try one of the Bunsen Tech apps like Dynolicious or the free Bosch variation. Try something like from a peppy start (to trigger) then short shifting into 3rd and then holding it to redline. Then for the speeds where it was in 3rd you'll have splits every 10 mph. You do this on a flat, level, straight road on a low or no wind day. Note the temp, barometer, humidity. Starting from the same spot each time u can get very good repeatability if nothing changed and your technique was good. For instance my car can be in 2nd from around 10 mph or 3rd under 20 mph so perhaps have splits from say 20 mph onward for each.

This is from a spreadsheet made from Dynolicious data when I was measuring different cam gear settings before I added my ITBs. Normally aspirated, low lag. BTW going from one speed to another in a given gear as noted above has no variation from driver skill or variation, plus it represents the area under the torque curve. You need to maximize that in a given speed/rpm range in order to get the best results. Note that as I went thru my trials I might gain in one mph range but then have a loss in another. I wanted to get as much gain with as little loss as possible. I will go thru this some more now that I have ITBs. First I want to degree in the cam as I went exh-int, and am thinking about some plenum volume and branch resonator revisions. Once those are settled and I have the AFRs etc decent then I'll go thru advancing and retarding the cams. One thing I want to try out is messing with LCA as some say that ITBs like different settings than single throttle intakes prefer.

[Novice1]

That app looks fantastic, will definitely purchase.

Cheers Novice1

[sjmarcy]

That app looks fantastic, will definitely purchase.

Cheers Novice1

Sure just use and calibrate it properly and it is useful. I did some tests versus my RT DL1 logger and sure the latter is clearly better and more flexible etc..used sanely the phone app is cheap and convenient enough to actually help.

Plus you can benchmark your car. Check out these times from one speed to another:

http://www.car-videos.net/performance/s ... =50&gear=2

Click custom to select other ranges.

[Novice1]

I am seeking quicker acceleration without going build engine internals.

This excludes an engine swap as well as possibly changing boost levels.

I'm assuming that the solution is work with what is already there however changing final drive is an option but custom gearbox ratios are not .

Yeh I thought that would probably be the case, it will be interesting to see what Mike suggests he does (I'd assume he'll say Cams).

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Mike didn't offer an opinion, but supplied smaller pulley and tune.

Not sure what sort of power increase, but went from 8-11 psi. mechanic not there Last 2 days, so dyno chart not yet available.

Best way I can describe it is acceleration I was pulling at 7000 rpm feels same now at 4000 rpm.

Very happy.

Novice1

[NitroDann]

But it accelerated harder at 4 than 7, and still does.

This i really why you need data and the know how to read it.

While I'm sure it's faster now than before, your suggestion that it makes the best acceleration at 7 than 4 is the kind of mistake that's easy to make which clouds judgement when trying to make performance decisions like this one.

[Novice1]

But it accelerated harder at 4 than 7, and still does.

This i really why you need data and the know how to read it.

While I'm sure it's faster now than before, your suggestion that it makes the best acceleration at 7 than 4 is the kind of mistake that's easy to make which clouds judgement when trying to make performance decisions like this one.

Will post dyno data as soon as available Dan.

Novice1

[speed]

Just for my limited opinion, what is the 0-100 time now?
I know it's not the best test but would give me something to compare it to.

Thankyou

[Novice1]

Just for my limited opinion, what is the 0-100 time now?
I know it's not the best test but would give me something to compare it to.

Thankyou

Tuning still not finished. Seat of the pants i wud say around an extra 20-25 hp. Mechanic is very busy, will chase him up again tomorrow. Ignition timing to be advanced yet and one more reflash , then dyno.

Novice1