Datfreak's NA6 - bringing back the dead

[datfreak]

thanks speed - yes the microtech days were very different to the ms tech.
I had that mt controller permanently hooked to the unit - always trying to get a smooth idle and cruise. That was a mazda b6 motor also, a ford capri with a rx7 iv turbo. Yes stupid idea but interesting days.

Mine is only a ms1 (with 3.57 board) and seems ok, obviously this leaves me with a ms2 cpu as a upgrade path later but atm the ms1 has all the features i need.

maybe your right about the 2.5 exhaust...unless getting the last few hp, a 3" system probably will be over kill(and harder to quite down)

[speed]

A 13bt in a ford Capri? FWD convertible would have been nuts but the older RWD version, then I can see the merit

3 inch system would make more power in the top end but I prefer stealth. Well, as stealthy as I can be when my supercharger is doing its thing

I will eventually design and make my own 2.5 inch SS system...

[datfreak]

no fwd 13bt- although that would have been awesome.. Just the 13b turbo on the b6t - was a horrible setup with boost starting at 4.5k and poor power even after lhat.
Button clutch, micro tech, loud ext vl commodore fuel pump. i shudder now, but at the time i thought it was the best thing. Stupid stuff when we are young

I was looking in ebay for ss 2.5 gear, obviously there is some expensive stuff but some of the no brand looks ok

[datfreak]

New update.

As before - thanks to forum members ive now got a megasquirt and wideband to play with.
Its a older pnp but seems to have enough features to keep me happy. I've half made a alloy bracket to mount the pnp in the original ecu spot. The lc-2 has alot of excess wiring, im going to hide this better.

http://www.overclockers.com.au/pix/index.php?page=image&id=hsnt0

Mind the arty semi blurred photo. I want to replace the whole inlet piping but due to the idle control and engine breathing pipes this will be a job for Ron.
At the moment its just removal of the AFM, a bit of 75mm bent alloy pipe and a pod. The inlet temps will not be great like this but still better performance without the afm restriction. I used the IAT sensor from the AFM into the rubber pipe, which looks neater then it should.

http://www.overclockers.com.au/pix/index.php?page=image&id=edfnx

I also got myself a na8 1.8 engine-

http://www.overclockers.com.au/pix/index.php?page=image&id=p6pf3

Its missing a few bits. -
Throttle body - im told the nb fits
inlet manifold brace - btw do i need this?
Flywheel/ clutch - i read that the na6 items will work so prob will swap.
alternator - will the na6 one fit if I change the pulley, or maybe a mx6/626 one?
header/exhaust manifold/ front pipe
prob a few other bits

Im thinking for the bp to build it as a mild nonturbo engine. Using the later model pistons 10.5:1 and get the cams reground to~270 degrees, keep the na6 flywheel with a upgraded clutch should keep the engine rev happy.
Ill start a thread in the engine section and ask the gurus there for advice. I've googled different setups but there is lots of conflicting info

[datfreak]

Did a COPS install today.
I'm eventually updating to the 1.8 but couldn't resist mounting them to the 1.6 for now.
Coils and plugs from a low k 1.8 corolla, alloy mounting plate was from Bunnings.

25mm wood blade bit wasn't the best choice to make the main holes - it did the job but had to be cleaned up with a burr grinder afterwards.

Dwell set at 3.5 cranking and 2.5 normal.
The engine bay is cleaner with the old coil pack, ignitor and plug leads gone.
Tacho didn't work afterwards but I later found the electric magics to make it work.

[speed]

Good stuff!

I've been meaning to install mine for a while now but have not done the necessary research.

How do i wire it up without the igniter and what wire(s) for the tachometer to work?

Thank you very much

[datfreak]

I've been meaning to install mine for a while now but have not done the necessary research.

How do i wire it up without the igniter and what wire(s) for the tachometer to work?

Are you making the bracket and loom? If your doing the loom I found http://www.miataturbo.net/useful-saved-posts-8/upgrading-coil-plugs-all-years-cop-writeup-12704/ wiring diagrams useful.

My tach problems arose from using a different diagram from another website that didnt connect black/white and yellow/blue. I then tried lots of things to get the tacho to work inc a 1k resistor in the diag box - I was really up the wrong path.


Some people open the ignitor and use it as a plug but I just cut the wires off at the plug and soldered/heatshrinked the cops loom directly. If I reburn new firmware into the megasquirt ill have to unplug all 4 cops before to prevent damage.

im sure you won't run into any problems with your install. If you get stuck send me a message and ill do my best to help out.

I like the sparse engine bay with the megasquirt:
airflow meter and box, standard bulky coils, plug leads and ignitor- all gone

[speed]

Thankyou very much.

Looks straight forward enough for even me to be able to do. Really appreciate your assistance.

Will let you know how I get on

[datfreak]

Did a weigh-in at the local dump. With my 85kg the total was 1.02t. About 940kg with 1/2 tank of fuel and no spare tire. Not bad.


Tried E85 today -
filled up with next to nothing left in the tank.
upped the req fuel by 30%, hit burn and drove off.
I later increased the req fuel to 37% more than the 98 octane tune to get the WOT AFR to 13ish on the wideband.

Total advance seemed happiest at 38 degrees. Even at 41 it didn't ping with this fuel but did lose power.
Drove nice, perfect idle etc.
then the fuel pump died

Its only about 8 months old so I guess cheap ebay pumps don't play well with E85.

It didnt die completely, just flow decreased after 3500rpm giving horrible wot afrs of 16 plus. (btw I checked the fuel filter and it wasn't obstructed)

I have another pump coming that lists e85 so hopefully I should be back on the road in a few days.

[Magpie]

That is a good weight 1,020kg! 940kg is the WTAC weight and includes all liquid tanks at normal levels and with a maximum of 5 litres of fuel and excludes driver. I have to drop about 100kg out of the car to get to yours

Is it still stock body wise or does it have a roll bar etc?

So you are not running a flex fuel sensor?

[datfreak]

I thought the weight was ok. It was on a dump weight bridge so hopefully it was accurate to + or - 10kg.


No I dont have any rollbar or any body mods just lightweight wheels, no airbox, no spare wheel, no ac, no power steer and 1.6l.
Probably could lose a little more with aftermarket seats and exhaust.

No flex sensor - I just wanted to try E85 and see if the benefits are worth the limited supply when using it as a commuting road car.
Ive read on n/a cars it can give an extra 5-7% hp across the whole rpm range, which is great when compared to other more expensive mods like exhaust or head work.
I'm expecting to run out of injector at 6500-7200 though (using my fuzzy maths skills and tuner studio), so will be on the lookout for some rx8 ones or equiv.

After I get the new pump, i'll be doing some more tuning. I'm thinking that the advance all-in rate could start a bit earlier with this fuel, and may give more low rev snap.

[speed]

930kg is good. I want to drop mine to 850kg if possible and increase power to 160kw atw.

Should give me a nice power to weight

[datfreak]

Turns out the fuel pump wasn't dead - as my new one had the same problem.

Car would run ok for awhile and then run extremely lean and stall. Then would run ok again after restarting

After lots of different incorrect fault finding the problem was my newish tank strainer.

This strainer didn't have the plastic cage inside, just a plastic mesh pad.
The pad had shifted and the pump had sucked in the strainer mesh, so all the filtering was done by a 1cm2 part of the white mesh. This blocked quickly (mainly due to the cleaning e85 fuel) and causing a hard lean.

See the attached pic - I've cleaned the strainer now but it did have a perfect black spot where the pump inlet is.

I bought this from a mx5 parts shop in oz as I didn't want to wait for mazda, so a few others on here maybe running the same strainer? I'm only n/a but this could have been a disaster if I was running boost.


As a temp fix ive put a long wide ziptie inside the strainer, to ' plump it up' so it filters over its whole surface.

[datfreak]

I havn't written much in a while. So biz with non car related stuff.

The car is off the road atm. The E85 messed up the std na6 injectors and even going back to 98 the car ran poor with idle afr at 12:1 (from 15:1 before). I'm unsure if 1 injector is leaking or a couple of them are not doing what they should be. 27 year old injectors dont like alcohol.

To make matters worse the alloy left fuel rail support broke when removing that bolt. Ive rigged up a reverse bolt like a stud to support it for now but it isnt ideal.

I dont think it is worth the cost to clean the std injectors so Im on the lookout for a upgrade
I'm unsure what new injectors to get . Thinking rx8 or wrx sti with adaptors or ev14 with adaptors,
Id1000s would be awesome but I can't justify $500 for my small power goals.


So thinking of either buying a new na6 manifold to fix the fuel rail mount OR use this off road time to put the na8 engine in.(would the standard na6 clutch be ok with the na8?)

if i go with the na8 engine I'll have to get more parts together to make it complete.

Anyways I'm missing not driving her to work each day

[smy0003]

Na6 clutch should be fine of you use the na6 fly as well.
How much stuff do you need to complete the swap?

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