mrpham's summer build

Apu · Postby **Apu** » Thu Oct 15, 2015 6:43 am

toppertee wrote:Good idea with the washer bottle....

I moved my washer bottle a couple of cm and pasted reflective heat tape on the side facing the turbo. Remember that water can absorb a lot of that heat as well so the likelihood of the bottle melting is slim, unless it contacts the turbo/manifold.

toppertee · Postby **toppertee** » Sat Oct 17, 2015 8:16 pm

To a point,
Run a car WOT at a track and you will be amazed at what you can melt. :mrgreen:

Postby **mrpham** » Mon Oct 19, 2015 1:00 am

Door Cards & Other Bits - http://omgpham.com/door-cards-other-bits

Some more progress over the last few weeks.I installed new door cards and door pull. The door cards are by CarbonMiata and door pulls by Jass Performance, both products available through my store. I also went with some larger diameter speaker grills, I think it works well with the rest of the interior.

The interior wiring is now completed.

Rear lip was painted gloss black and finished mounting that up.

I used some rubber sheeting to make a gasket for the bulk head connector panel, cost a couple dollars off eBay. Than used some spray on glue to position it on the panel.

In a previous post I mentioned I had to make a jig to mount my throttle bodies, well below are more details on this. Quality of the T3 manifold isn't the greatest. Basically because the T3 manifold doesn't have dowels and the throttle body mounting holes aren't in the correct positions, the throttle bodies were never perfectly aligned. This misalignment results in the butterflies not opening evenly. I confirmed this with a spare set of throttle bodies.

No matter what adjustments were made, the butterflies would either be out of sync at closed throttle or part/full throttle. Even adjusting the bypass screws wouldn't help.

Not too sure how important it is to have them open evenly, but it can't be a good thing if they're not...

Below shows a factory Toyota manifold with two locating dowels on each throttle body.

Throttle bodies mounted to the Toyota manifold and everything dialed in.

The jig mounted to the throttle bodies using the top holes.

Throttle bodies unbolted from the Toyota manifold and transferred to the T3 manifold. The threaded holes in the T3 manifold were not spaced correctly so I had to drill out the holes in the throttle bodies to get everything to bolt down.

Jig plate removed from the throttle bodies and trumpets installed.

Intake mounted up and injectors connected.

Postby **mrpham** » Wed Dec 16, 2015 12:45 am

Back From Holidays - http://omgpham.com/back-from-holidays

After the last update, we went for a short trip. Then there was the house move.... So not a whole lot has happened with the build, but still some steps closer to start up

.

I finally received my laser cutting order, the original holes for the wiring have been blocked up and the bulk head panel is done too. All three pieces were painted with a clear-over-base rattle can paint system. Turned out pretty good

Would also like to look at redoing my brake lines at some stage.

This is the Jass Performance shifter boot. They're a direct bolt in part with a much more durable boot than the Mazda item. My brand new Mazda replacement lasted just over a year. Will be doing a group buy soon for these

Interior back together.

Borrowed a friend's Pipercross air filter for testing fitting. These have an internal height of 120mm I believe, more than suitable for my 75mm velocity stacks.

But the problem is that it doesn't clear the clutch master cylinder and reservoir. I'm currently talking to a few people with some possible solutions, more info when that's sorted.

And had my HKS headers ceramic coated by Thermal Edge Coatings.

speed · Postby **speed** » Wed Dec 16, 2015 8:15 am

Looking good - Are you using stock seat belts on those seats, if so, have you replaced the buckle with a non stork type?
I've managed to jam my buckle through the side hole but it's too long and stabs me every time I get in the car. Looking for a more comfortable solution that won't get me in trouble with the law.

ndragun · Postby **ndragun** » Wed Dec 16, 2015 8:46 am

mrpham wrote:Borrowed a friend's Pipercross air filter for testing fitting. These have an internal height of 120mm I believe, more than suitable for my 75mm velocity stacks.

...

But the problem is that it doesn't clear the clutch master cylinder and reservoir. I'm currently talking to a few people with some possible solutions, more info when that's sorted.

Just throwing it out there... what about something like this;
http://www.jenvey.co.uk/products/accessories/airhorns-filters-and-boxes/carbon-airbox-base-abb2-50c
http://www.jenvey.co.uk/images/stories/virtuemart/product/abb2506.pdf

This is a recessed airbox base plate, which I have a feeling might get you past the clutch master... Then a shallower filter similar to mine (rather than the one you've borrowed from your mate, which looks quite a bit deeper than normal).

Not sure... you'd have to get out the tape measure and reference the PDF... but it might work?

Postby **mrpham** » Wed Dec 16, 2015 11:10 am

speed wrote:Looking good - Are you using stock seat belts on those seats, if so, have you replaced the buckle with a non stork type?
I've managed to jam my buckle through the side hole but it's too long and stabs me every time I get in the car. Looking for a more comfortable solution that won't get me in trouble with the law.

Yeah man stock seat belts, the seat belt receiver is the NA type which bolts to the transmission tunnel. Seems to work ok for us.

Postby **mrpham** » Wed Dec 16, 2015 11:13 am

ndragun wrote:Just throwing it out there... what about something like this;
http://www.jenvey.co.uk/products/accessories/airhorns-filters-and-boxes/carbon-airbox-base-abb2-50c
http://www.jenvey.co.uk/images/stories/virtuemart/product/abb2506.pdf

This is a recessed airbox base plate, which I have a feeling might get you past the clutch master... Then a shallower filter similar to mine (rather than the one you've borrowed from your mate, which looks quite a bit deeper than normal).

Not sure... you'd have to get out the tape measure and reference the PDF... but it might work?

That recessed panel looks, I'll take some measurements.

I'm currently looking at using a Suzuki Vitara clutch master, bolts straight in and has same bore. Lot more compact than the factory one.

Steampunk · Postby **Steampunk** » Wed Dec 16, 2015 2:31 pm

mrpham wrote: Yeah man stock seat belts, the seat belt buckle is the NA6 type which bolts to the transmission tunnel, whereas NA8 (& NB) are attached to the seat. Seems to work ok for me.

fixed

speed · Postby **speed** » Wed Dec 16, 2015 5:18 pm

Thanks Mr Pham and Steampunk

Postby **mrpham** » Mon Dec 28, 2015 1:55 am

Start Up! - http://omgpham.com/start-up

This was not a smooth start up.... Ran into a few issues earlier on, car would crank over and sometimes nearly run but never more than than a fraction of a second. Went through and checked through the wiring and grounds, everything was good there, a quick visual inspection of the cam gear and cam lobes to see if they were in the right positions. And a whole bunch of things....

The ECU logs showed consistent sync loss, error no. 31. Something was wrong with the cam/crank sensors. In my particular case it was caused by the crank trigger wheel being installed backwards

. And I actually did check it earlier on, but checked it incorrectly!

Once I flipped that trigger wheel around, it started right away! Here's a quick video of it, more to come later!